EGR delete on 98 e300td , now PO100
 

I completed the EGR delete last night as described on the forum, the KarTek method,and now I have PO100 code which I didn't have before???
Does anyone know what can cause that,I see that this method has been done many times successfully.... My luck...

Year and model would be helpful.

Sorry,yes that would help..

98 e300td

So I just disconnected the diode-resister jump across the green/grey and yellow /white and PO100 cleared. PO 400 didn't come back up but it normally does after I drive it a few miles.I'll take it for a drive and see what happens,with the EGR vacuum line disconnected it will probably throw the code

Hummm...
I drove her for awhile and no code???
I'm going to go drive 250 miles tomorrow, we'll see..

Hi, I got your message. It's good to post this stuff here as you have done, to aid anyone who might also have troubles.

You mentioned in the PM that you have done the "three step" process. So, are you using 2 resistors and a diode? If so, you need to disconnect the EGR transducer and cap the vacuum line output of the transducer.

If you do the 2 component process, you leave the transducer connected and again, cap the vacuum output port.

Thanks so much for your reply and help.

I did the diode,1 resister according to your revised schematic and then capped the EGR valve output and put a plug in the hose that goes to the EGR itself.

Since I sent the PM last night, I pulled one spade out of the tap splice and the PO100 went away. I've driven it a number of times today with the EGR valve still capped and it hasn't thrown a code???
I have a longer trip planned for tomorrow,hopefully it will be OK

I went far my drive today and 5 miles into it I got PO400
So I'm back to trying to figure out why I got PO100 after doing the 2 step EGR delete.I followed the revised wiring and sounded out the pins to make sure I had the right wires. The only part I wasn't sure of was the direction of the diode,I put the white stripe side towards the resister,I had seen a pic of that but not sure if it is correct.

Any Ideas??? Help please Evan or anybody who had the same problem with the delete

The white stripe needs to be oriented towards the green/gray wire. It doesn't matter which side of the resistor it's on.

Yea, that's it I'll bet,the strip is towards the resister/yellow-white.
I redo tomorrow
It was a long 276 mile drive though the mountains in limp mode!!

I'll let you know, Thanks Much!!!

Well I re installed the resister/diode with the diode in the right direction and have been driving around town today all day and Wala NO code !!!!!

I'll wait for another day or two of driving before I break out the champagne...

Update..
I drove it for over a day and no codes,then all of a sudden yesterday on cold start I got a PO235 code,"turbo charger boost sensor", then again today on cold start. I reset the ECU after it warmed up and then it was ok during the day until the next morning on cold start.
????

I'm assuming the "boost sensor" is the MAP sensor located on the inside of the fender on the left side. It has a short tube that runs to the side EGR mixing chamber. Check and make sure you didn't disturb or damage the wiring to it and that the tube is attached.

Thanks Evan,
We are leaving for a Thanksgiving trip and will be back Sunday,I'll check those again then and reply back.
Have a great Holiday!!

Here's one for the books....
So I checked the lines and wires again and all OK
Took it for a drive and under heavy acceleration with no boost, PO 243 came on
So I started to check the waste gate solenoid, wires, vacuum lines and found a mouse nest down under the brake vacuum where the thin white tube gets the vacuum for the turbo waste gate, low and behold the mouse had chewed a large hole on the line,I put shrink tube over it and went for a drive,WOW I now have a race car!!!
Hopefully this will be the end to all the check engine lights I've been getting!

Sir, I did the egr delete. I block the transducer hose from the egr, I got maf sensor error code. If I disconnect the 2 component element, I will get cel p0400 (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction) and maf error goes away. What di I do wrong?

BTW, which is the "vacuum line output of the transducer"? Thanks you.

99 e300td

First thing: Double check that you are tapping into the correct two wires. Then, make sure the stripe on the diode is oriented towards the green/gray wire. The relationship of the diode to the resistor doesn't matter, as long as the stripe is pointing towards the green/gray wire.

The vacuum output of the transducer is the line that leads from the transducer to the EGR mixing chamber. There is also a vacuum inlet and a purge line that terminates in a small filter.

I think I hook the thing upside down.:P Now no code !!!! Thank you very much.

BTW, I ordered the military grade elements, they are only few dollars. I heard the radio shack's won't last long.

My 98 E300D has the diode/resistor EGR delete.

However, if I short start it (i.e. forget to wait for glow light) or have a hard time starting it (like after playing with the fuel system), mine throws P0400 and goes to limp mode.

I have taken to carrying a cheap OBDII reader with me at all times to clear the code and get it out of limp mode. Only had to use it once, while teaching my 15 yo son to drive, he hadn't quite gotten the rhythm down on the GP light and short started it, which threw it into limp mode. Luckily he did this in the garage so I didn't have to go far to get it, and it made me realize it should live in the car at all times.

Great! Glad you were successful. :cool:

Today my 99 e300 came up the same code P0400, I can't erase it. It keeps coming back. Don't know what to do. What else will trigger p0400?

P0400 is Mass Airflow Sensor failure.

This is the black cylinder in the hose between the air box and the turbo inlet. It has a mult-pin electrical connector on it. First check that the connector is plugged in securely.

If it is, chances are the MAF is bad. They have a finite lifespan and will fail. You can try MAF cleaner but it is a short term solution at best.

The MAF costs about $200 from the forum sponsor (get the Bosch, that is the actual manufacturer) and takes about 2 minutes to swap out.

I also have a MAF delete circuit that consists of another single resistor across a couple of the MAF wires.

See here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-performance-tuning/263747-maf-elimination-project-w210-606-turbo-4.html

Wow, I will try it later.

BTW, after couple of month of EGR delete, I got a p0400 code again today. I replace the EGR delete elements with a spare one, the code is still there.

Any suggestion?

Hi Again,seems I'm having an issue again, I'm getting PO100 on start up and sometimes at idle?? I reset each time Iget the code. I couldn't find the EGR delete print out that I used from this forum, could someone redirect me, I want to check my work again.All was working fine until recently??
Thanks All

PS...I have put on a new OEM MAF already

Here's the link to the original post. I think #155 has the information you want.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/168261-got-time-egr-bypass-606-turbo-11.html