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  #1  
Old 12-02-2013, 02:46 AM
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No more "lotta shaking going on"

When I installed the "federal" engine in my 85 CA 300D, I went to some expense to get the "federal" air cleaner and U-tube, only to find it vibrating as bad as in my 84 300D. I used a new bracket and rubber mounts, and even stuffed heater hose against the valve cover (helped). The engine itself idles fairly smooth. I would sometimes get a rattling from the oil separator inside the air cleaner.

I longed for my frame-mounted CA air cleaner so much that I installed it and all is smooth now. I used a 3"D 90 deg silicone hose for turbo inlets (ebay, 4"L cl to edge and could use more). I had to cut 1.5" off the cleaner's metal tube (outlet too high) and rotate it relative to the "trash can". I used the longer federal plastic inlet tube since a bit cocked. Someday, I'll find the little bracket to the coolant reservoir, but it is a solid mount as is. I capped off the blow-by oil drain tube for now. I might cut a hole to run it in the hose, as in the CA factory design, or I could plumb it over to the federal drain (red cap in background), since seems smarter than sending oil into the turbo. I don't recall the CA engine having a 2nd oil drain on the upper oil pan, behind the turbo drain, so perhaps it was capped off.

The smaller blue hose in the photo replaces the factory electric water pump. It is more reliable for my son who will have the car far away in San Diego, where heat isn't needed, though I still get heat in the cabin, so the electric pump is silly except for harsh German winters. I am tempted now to find a CA air cleaner setup for my 84 300D.

Some might remark that air filter elements cost $45 for the CA trash can, if you can find them. I have a clean one I found at a junkyard for $1, but you can find others that work. Browsing a Wix sheet suggested that stacking 2 filters for an 86 Toyota MR2 would work. I am so sure I ordered some. There are other combinations of 3 filters that might work. If anyone cracks that nut, please let us know.
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  #2  
Old 12-09-2013, 03:27 PM
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Update. I looked at the upper oil pan on my 85 CA engine and it has only the single turbo oil drain stub. The casting has the hole for the air cleaner oil drain, but it wasn't machined thru. Since my replacement engine has that stub (and check valve), I may get a junkyard drain tube and cut it (for straigher shot). Seems smarter than running oil into the turbo inlet like the factory design.

Edit
I received the MR2 air filters and they fit great (photo). They should fit tight height-wise since slightly taller (~1/8") than the factory air filter. The only issue is that the inner sleeve inside the "trash can" blocks part of the filter at the bottom, but true for the factory filter as well (strange design). Again, this special air cleaner is only for 85 CA 300D's. Those owners can now stop whining about paying $45 for an air filter. I'll let someone else chime in about whether an SDL's air filter might fit (below).
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Last edited by BillGrissom; 12-11-2013 at 02:35 AM.
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  #3  
Old 12-09-2013, 08:50 PM
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Any chance the SDL type air filter would fit in there?
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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Old 01-24-2014, 12:37 PM
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This is what I found when looked up the Air Filter. However, it is for a specific Engine Code. So anyone wanting to do what was suggested in the other posts should check the dimensions.
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Old 09-01-2014, 05:25 PM
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Update. Sorry, I just noticed I never finished the story about the oil-drain plumbing. In the post #2 photos, I had just a stub tube on the rubber "PCV T" (1985 CA engines) to hold oil. It did collect a little oil in a few weeks of driving, so I figured best to provide a permanent drain. This engine has no blow-by, so the oil drops are most likely simply flung off the camshaft (you'll see if you leave the oil fill cap off). I could have just run the oil drain into the new silicone turbo inlet elbow (as M-B did in 85 CA engines), but no sense gunking the turbo blades and inlet manifold.

Instead, I ran a drain tube (5/16 or 3/8"D steel "fuel tubing", forgot) to the normal "air-filter oil-drain tube" on this replacement engine (1982, I think). I used some rubber "fuel hose" as a seal, and punched a hole in a silicone "plumbing shipping cap" as "dust cover" (never toss those), as shown in the photo. I hose-clamped it to the AC return tube (not shown) w/ cut rubber hose as isolation. That was for support and to dampen vibrations in the tube.

If I ever finish rebuilding my 1985 CA engine, I'll either install an earlier upper oil pan to get its "oil drain w/ check-valve" stub or I'll add a drain stub to my silicone elbow.
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:48 PM
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From what I can see of your "oil drain plumbing", there doesn't appear to be any crankcase ventilation. How are you achieving this?

You may not have much blow by at the current time, but no crankcase ventilation can cause all kinds of oil leaks. I've seen engines literally shut down when this is blocked.
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  #7  
Old 09-03-2014, 04:44 PM
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I still have the normal crankcase vent for an 85 CA car. Photo 1 shows the factory T in the PCV tube going from valve cover to air filter, though you can't make out the lower "oil drain" tube in the photo. In all other 82-85 300D's, there is no T, just straight to air filter.

In 85 CA cars, there is no oil separator inside the air filter housing. Instead, the T simply drains all oil (hopefully) into the turbo inlet duct (ugly rubber thing w/ little port for that tube).

I simply ran the oil drain over to the "air filter oil drain tube" on this 82 engine. Seemed smarter than sending it thru the compressor blades as M-B did in 85 CA cars. Those who still have an 85 CA engine can't do this. Even if they get the factory drain tube, there is no stub for it on the "upper oil pan".
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