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  #1  
Old 12-03-2013, 08:57 PM
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How concerned should I be about this? (seized brake lines fittings)

I am replacing the front pads and rotors on my 300SD (because they are nearly worn out), so I planned to replace the flex lines too.

But, I discovered that the fittings on the hard lines are stuck in the flex lines badly enough that removing them will ruin the hard lines.

I did replace the drivers side one since the hard line is easy to change, and the other flex lines are currently fine. But, I don't really know what I will do if I have to ever replace the other flex lines, because it looks like the only way they will come out is to cut the hard line, and removing the hard lines to the passenger side or rear calipers looks like a huge job.
Is there an easy way to fix this? Or if I want a car I can keep a long time should I try to find a different 300SD that doesn't have this problem before any of the flex lines on mine actually need replacement. The car in the junkyard I took the one short hard line came apart with no problem, so I know they aren't all like this.

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Old 12-03-2013, 10:52 PM
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Pull the clip , push the flex line out of the bracket, hold the hard line nut then turn the flex line. Once this is done, spray with rust penetrant _ NOT WD-40 IT WON'T HELP_ gently work the nut back and forth. If you do heat things up, sometimes the rubber flex line will fly off the fitting with a pop so be prepared.
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  #3  
Old 12-04-2013, 01:30 AM
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Always use line wrenches. I assume you are. You can add some heat from a torch if needed but the lines must be pretty corroded if you have to go that far.
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Old 12-04-2013, 01:48 AM
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Here's a great tool for loosening brake hoses: Vise-Grip 4LW Locking Wrench with Wire Cutter - Amazon.com

Use it to hold the flare nut fast while turning on the hose fitting, as SL320 says. The notch in the LW's jaw lets you clamp down on the flare nut without damaging it.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:01 AM
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would not have thought about using that vise grip, i bought some of those on clearance one and they are handy, i guess i might have thought about it if i knew where they were LOL
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:33 AM
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I've changed brake hoses a bunch of cars with that tool and it has never let me down. You can apply it as tight as you physically can and it will not damage the nut. It will not slip.

I usually cut the hose off so I can use a deep socket on the fitting with an 18-inch breaker bar for extra torque. I changed the original hoses on a friend's '71 250c a few years ago. They broke free with a crack that made me fear at first that I had snapped something. Every one came off without a hitch.
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
Always use line wrenches. I assume you are. You can add some heat from a torch if needed but the lines must be pretty corroded if you have to go that far.
X2 on the Line Wrenches; also called Flare Nut Wrenches and Heat the Femal end of the Brake Hose.
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Old 12-04-2013, 01:25 PM
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fire

I recently did lots of brake work on my 83 300D and the hard lines were very stubbornly mated to the soft lines. I used a standard propane torch (on low) to heat up the hard line and the top of the soft line. Then I spray PB Blaster in there, tap it around a bit with a hammer and screwdriver (or whatever you choose). I do that several times if necessary. Hold the end of the soft line with 14 mm wrench IIRC and use the flare wrench (or 11mm box end).

These are the thoughts of a shade tree, cheap bastard, non-anal 'mechanic', so take them for what they're worth. Obviously don't melt the stuff you're planning on re-using :-)

I need to get one of those fancy vise grips!
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Old 12-04-2013, 01:59 PM
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Line wrenches are mandatory !

Kroil is a great penetrating fluid.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:26 PM
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I have to tackle this one decade.....brakes still work fine and past a brake inspection a few years ago....but I really want to do an over haul.....new master, flex lines and rebuild calipers....so I am insured another 30 years of carefree braking....

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