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  #1  
Old 12-10-2013, 12:01 PM
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Fuse #2 blows when ignition turned to ON

Trying to track down what must be a short in something support fuse #2 in my '95 E300.

With the ignition turned to ON (not the start/crank position) the #2 fuse blows. I've now gone through a few RED fuses during troubleshooting and I'm looking for ideas on how to track this down.

For the heck of it - I swapped out the Comfort Relay with a spare one - no change. This fuse supports the wiper/windows mostly.

Any ideas?

-John

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  #2  
Old 12-10-2013, 12:23 PM
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Crap my eye site. I looked for a fuse box layout but couldn't find what all fuse 2 controls. What happens if you leave the comfort relay unhooked?
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  #3  
Old 12-10-2013, 12:34 PM
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Fuse #2:

"Wipe/Wash system, Optical horn, relay headlamp cleaning unit/ comfort circuitry/ window lift-term."
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  #4  
Old 12-10-2013, 01:05 PM
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Tried again with the relay removed. Fuse blows.

I think the issue is with the turn indicator/wiper stalk. I popped the cap and someone has been here and there appears to have been an electrical short at one time.
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  #5  
Old 12-10-2013, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homepagz View Post
Tried again with the relay removed. Fuse blows.

I think the issue is with the turn indicator/wiper stalk. I popped the cap and someone has been here and there appears to have been an electrical short at one time.
I think that makes sense to me. I'd question how difficult it is to get the air bag/horn off.
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  #6  
Old 12-10-2013, 01:38 PM
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I pulled the cap off the end and cleaned the contacts to make sure nothing was shorting. There was some black evidence of shorting. Did an ohm test to make sure the leads where shorting - put a new fuse in while the end was apart and the fuse didn't blow.

So - that seems to be the issue.

Can I replace the guts of the stalk without pulling the wheel (i.e. the entire stalk unit)?

-John
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  #7  
Old 12-10-2013, 02:10 PM
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Nope, wheel has to come off.

Sixto
87 300D
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Old 12-10-2013, 02:19 PM
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Well - the rabbit hole is getting deeper. I have found out WHY the original short was happening in the stalk. I wanted to test the systems while it was apart to ensure everything worked.

When I jumped the correct contacts to activate the wiper - it did run but it was bucking around like it had a worn gear. I also noticed the shorting lead I was using got very hot - telling me the motor was pulling way to many amps.

I then noticed I could grab the wiper by hand and move the arm - that's not a good sign.

So - looks like I need to sort out the stalk AND replace the wiper motor.

Sound like I'm going down the right path?
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  #9  
Old 12-10-2013, 02:39 PM
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While the wiper motor is out, pull the blower motor and clean the evaporator coils.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #10  
Old 12-10-2013, 02:41 PM
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Sixto - you're not helping - you're just making the rabbit hole deeper.

But - you're right of course.

-John
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  #11  
Old 12-10-2013, 02:55 PM
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The wiper transmission is bad but the motor might be good. Even so, why would that burn out the switch and blow the fuse? Are the wipers on when you start the engine?

Sixto
87 300D
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  #12  
Old 12-10-2013, 03:01 PM
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I'm assuming the contacts inside the stalk were touching. My first task was to clean up the inside of the stalk to ensure nothing was contacting and I was able to place the ignition into the "ON" position without blowing the fuse.

Power must be applied to the stalk with the ignition in the "ON" position as this was what caused the short.

I'm going to do some reading on how to pull the wiper and the other items you mentioned.

Thanks for the help - as always.

-John
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  #13  
Old 12-10-2013, 03:07 PM
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PeachPartsWiki: Blower Motor Removal

I don't even remember doing this - PeachPartsWiki: Combination Switch Replacement . Mind later models use a different kind of airbag contact (clockspring?)

Sixto
87 300D
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2014, 05:19 PM
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For those following along... the short in the stalk was due to a bad wiper motor. The current it was drawing was melting the contacts.

I swapped the motor with my parts car and the melting wires went away.

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