Paint job for my grey 300SD
 

I am looking at Maaco in Addison, TX to do a paint job on my grey 300SD. I will plan to go to the shop this Saturday to look at the work they do and get an estimate for what I want done. I need to keep it under $1500. I am keeping the factory anthracite grey color, so I am not going to pitch a fit if my engine bay and trunk are not re-painted as well. I am going mostly for a functional and good looking paint job that will last more than a few years. I'm not trying to win any restoration awards here.

I plan to remove all trim, lights, cladding, etc before I turn the car over to them. I don't want those parts painted over and I don't want to spend prep time to have them remove those parts when they should be sanding and blocking. Also, I don't want anything broken.

There are a few minor dents on the car that need to be pulled out but nothing bigger than a quarter.

What should I be asking for when it comes to paint type, method and preparation concerns? I really don't know much about automotive paint but I would like to get as close to factory original as I can while keeping my budget in mind.

If anyone can suggest a shop or knows one in my area that can meet my budget, please let me know. I am going to Maaco in Addison first because they have really good reviews and I know they won't quote me $6K just to get me to take my old beater and leave. I am not against getting a reasonable quote from a smaller shop; it is just that all the leads I had except for one fell through.

There have been a couple of long threads similar to what you are asking, one only a week or two ago I believe.

From what I recall, it was pointed out that Maaco is a good choice for what you propose to do, as all they do is paint cars (as opposed to regular bodyshops whose main concern is making money off insurance claims, actual body repair).

For what you are ready to pay, delivering a stripped car, you should be able to get one of their better or best paint packages, though they will have to allow for the dent removal (you will need to specify removal, if that is what you want, as most of the time a paint shop will just put filler over small dings, at least around here).

One tip from my experience: if your turn signals and taillights are faded or dinged, they will stand out like a sore thumb on a freshly painted car.

As you probably already know, the key to a quality paint job is PREPARATION. The actual application of the paint is actually the smallest part of the job. You might want to ask if it will be a single or two stage paint job. Disassembly of the car on your part is an excellent idea. When speaking to Maaco be sure they are able to match your Mercedes paint color exactly. Also, ask about a final color sand and rub out.

Zacharias - I know but I don't want to hijack someone else's thread and come off as rude. I will also post on this thread any estimates and the final result when it is done.

BWhitmore - Thanks for the tips. Part of the reason I want to remove as much as I can is so the guy doing the prep work can spend more time on it. I might even explain to them that I will pay for x more hours prep / sanding time so they don't rush it in fear of losing money.

I also want the pin striping done if I can afford it. Ideally, it would be done with paint and not stickers but I do have a budget to stay within.

Since I have multiple vehicles, Maaco can take extra time on the car because I won't be stranded or have to rent a car in the interim. Maybe that can be to my advantage cost-wise.

If you have time and interest to learn metal bumping you could do the bodywork yourself. My bodywork isn't the greatest but I usually do the heavy lifting so that a minimum of filler is needed.

Wife's metro vert had very little paint surface of course, so they had a lot of room to work on the estimate to cover additional sanding and a couple of very small dings. The top paint job at the maaco we went to was a basecoat/clearcoat.

Interest, maybe. Time and space, not so much.

This is the route I will most likely end up going on the 240D as well. I can do most of the prep work and the car has minimal rust and its only in the rockers.

My 1985 300d has tape pin striping that has held up quite well for 6 years and this car is parked outside (So Cal). It is also inexpensive.

Maaco just did my SDL. Looks great, excellent value. $800.

The estimate from Maaco came out at $1,330. It includes $99 of chip and scratch repair $40 to fix a dent and the paint package is base coat and performance clear coat. Tax and other fees included in the $1,330. It fits in my budget of $1,500.

Does anyone think a cut and buff is worth it? I can ask how much that costs but what should be a reasonable number?

I received my tax return and brought the car to Maaco on Saturday! I removed everything except the bumpers. I doubt they will remove them at Maaco but I guess I will see. I am paying $200 on top of the $1330 to have them remove dents. I knew there were more dents in the car than they originally found. I don't want to ruin the paint job by having them paint over any dents, so I am OK with paying to have them removed. I am hoping the car comes out looking really good. I know it won't be a show room paint job but it oughta look a damn sight better than 30 year old paint.

My signature car which I had painted in June 2012. Like you, I removed everything, including the bumpers. It's DuPont Chroma Premier, BCCC. I had a local shop do it, but it was a lot more than $200. It also had a few little scrapes and hail damage on the hood and trunk.

I have to ask, again. What is this strange American obsession with defacing these vehicles with pin-stripes. They were never done that way in the factory and only here do people seem to think it's required or desirable. I think it ruins the lines of the vehicle. Mercedes of this era have lines pressed into the bodies already and pin-striping them just clutters them up and makes them look garish. In my foreign opinion of course...

- Peter.

I have an '83 W126 in anthracite gray with a two- tone painted pinstripe - i.e. not tape - the top line is gray and the bottom is black. The lines cross at the front. I did not even realize it was 2 colors until today when a painter was going over the car with me and showing me what it should have to make it right - what it originally came with.

I guess I need to make a decision on pin striping soon; before they start painting.