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  #1  
Old 12-30-2013, 03:07 PM
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87 300D ran out of fuel, can't restart

I guess it had to happen to me. I was running the tank as low as possible before investigating a leaking return or vent hose and checking the strainer while down there. The low fuel light had been on for a while but the indicator was still above E. Lesson learned. It stalled and the small filter was about empty. I added ~2 gallons and bled the system per my normal routine of loose injector lines until wet. Dozens of 10 second cranking sessions later #1 and #2 remain dry. The engine tries to catch but won't run on its own. I've given tons of suggestions on this matter but nothing works for me. What I haven't done since I've never had to do it is crank for a minute with the pedal to the floor. Anything else to try?

Sixto
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  #2  
Old 12-30-2013, 03:31 PM
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Try running it on WD-40 for a bit to see if you can get it firing on all cyl's. 603's are a pain in the butt to prime...
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  #3  
Old 12-30-2013, 07:46 PM
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Amen to that, just experienced it on my OM606.

Changed the prefilter on my sloping driveway, with the car parked nose up. Bad Idea.

The fuel drained back to the tank and I thought I never would get the thing to fire back up.

Ended up letting the car roll down the driveway, turned 90 degrees so that it was nose down the hill in front of my house, and finally it caught.

Moral of the story, don't run 60x engines out of fuel or open the fuel system if the car is pointing nose up.
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both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

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  #4  
Old 12-30-2013, 10:44 PM
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if you have a shop vac, you can set it to BLOW and pressurize the fuel tank, then open the return line, and hold the return hose closed, so the pressure goes through the filter, and IP, this will bleed the filter and lift pump full of fuel. then all you need to do is close up the return line, and bleed the injectors as you crank the motor.

sixto, if you can't get fuel to the front injectors, open the rear ones back up, and bleed them some more. often you'll get a burp of fuel, but not enough to bleed the IP properly... start back at the rear line, and get GOOD solid fuel out, bubble free, before you tighten the nuts.
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  #5  
Old 12-31-2013, 05:38 AM
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Wow....hadn't realized running out of fuel can be a non-trivial matter.
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  #6  
Old 12-31-2013, 09:18 AM
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Sixto:
I unfortunately don't have any further suggestions, but I wanted to wish you good luck getting it started. Also, could you please report back once you have it resolved? Repriming without a primer pump is something that really has me nervous.
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  #7  
Old 12-31-2013, 09:25 AM
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Upon rereading your original post, I would suggest you put more than two gallons in the tank. More fuel in the tank will help pressurize the low pressure side of the system.

And there is always the chance that you dislodged some sludge from the tank which is now blocking the strainer. So getting it going on a temporary bottle of fuel might be worthwhile. Good luck.
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  #8  
Old 12-31-2013, 11:33 AM
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Did you put fuel in it? I KEED! Did you try flooring it while you crank it?
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  #9  
Old 12-31-2013, 12:55 PM
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You mentioned that you crank until the loose injectors are "wet"

I like to crank until the loose injectors a Spraying!! Fuel.

Don't know if that will help. I also think you should put in another gallon or two. 2 gallons may not be enough.

Stat warm
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  #10  
Old 12-31-2013, 03:45 PM
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I haven't been back to it since the original post. I can't distinguish wet from spray since I was working alone. I'll try again today with a second set of eyes, fresh filters and jumper cables. Yes, I disconnected the STOP lever vacuum line.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #11  
Old 12-31-2013, 04:13 PM
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Drop the secondary and fill it right to the very top, and reinstall.

If the secondary isn't filled to the top, you're simply pushing air into the IP and getting fuel at the cracked injector lines will take forever.
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  #12  
Old 12-31-2013, 04:59 PM
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Agreed. I've had best luck when I bolt the secondary filter in place, then jam a wooden wedge under the secondary, then remove the bolt (the wedge holds the secondary in place). With a small funnel I then fill the secondary completely full and then replace the bolt. That eliminates the air bubbles and allows the engine to start easily.
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  #13  
Old 12-31-2013, 07:05 PM
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I loosened the top bolt for the big filter and the IP supply banjo bolt and cranked. I tightened the top bolt when fuel dripped past the canister o-ring, then the banjo bolt when it leaked. I loosened all the injector lines and cranked. They all leaked close to immediately. By then the battery couldn't turn the engine quickly enough with afterglow so I hooked up the jumpers. That's all it took. I suppose the core of the difficulty is my reluctance to crank for more than 10 seconds at a time.

In the process of loosening and tightening the #1 injector line, I broke the brittle return line between #1 and the filter housing. I'm using some 1/8" yard tool fuel line for now.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #14  
Old 12-31-2013, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
I loosened the top bolt for the big filter and the IP supply banjo bolt and cranked. I tightened the top bolt when fuel dripped past the canister o-ring, then the banjo bolt when it leaked. I loosened all the injector lines and cranked. They all leaked close to immediately. By then the battery couldn't turn the engine quickly enough with afterglow so I hooked up the jumpers. That's all it took. I suppose the core of the difficulty is my reluctance to crank for more than 10 seconds at a time.

In the process of loosening and tightening the #1 injector line, I broke the brittle return line between #1 and the filter housing. I'm using some 1/8" yard tool fuel line for now.

Sixto
87 300D
I bought 4 feet of the stuff on an auction site for about 18 bucks and had plenty left over. Just cut to fit. One of those things you should just replace as it will leave you stranded at some point.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/3307/MBZ_3307_FULFUL_pg1.htm#item2 Check the very bottom.
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  #15  
Old 12-31-2013, 09:08 PM
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The weed wacker hose will last about 18 mo to 2 yrs. Good for emergency repair but I would get the legit hose at your earliest convenience.

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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