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#1
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how does the oil line fitting seal on a 617?
question, im putting some adapters on my oil filter housing on a 83 617, and Im not sure how the below threaded section of the fitting the oil cooler lines that screws into the housing actually seals.
I figured there would be some kind of sealing washer, but there wasn't on the source motor, and it wasn't leaking. I don't want the adapters to leak, so im looking for some seals, but how does this seal stock?
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#2
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Probably just butts up against a stop internally.
If you're worried about it put some sealing loctite on the threads.
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#3
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It looks like you're trying to convert to AN fittings. An easier way might be to just keep the stock fitting on the oil cooler and braze a weld-on -10 fitting to a short length of hardline. Same concept as I did here with the fitting on the oil cooler end.
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Current Stable
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#4
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More (not most) accurately referred to as a conical/ball hydraulic seat.
Thread locker has 0 effect on the actual sealing ability of this fitting. The thread is merely the compressor of the mating surfaces. It would only be useful in preventing the threaded nut from loosening.
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'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto '19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled '21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition '95 E300d - SOLD '84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one '81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter |
#5
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They have Fittings that are AN on one side and M18x1.5 on the other side (that would fit the Oil Filter Housin on an 671.952).
On the Stock setup the Oil Filter Housing Fittings are sealed with a Copper Crush Washer. The M18x1.5 threads on the AN type Fittings are straight so they would need to be sealed with the Copper Crush Washer and or Loctite. I think they also have the M18x1.5 threaded fittings with a barbed end for Hose. Just extra info. M18x1.5 use to be the size of the Spark Plug threads on some vehicles in the past.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
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Quote:
Im using some 10AN JIC to 18mm-1.5 metric adapter, which should do everything in one go, they screw in there perfectly, but are longer, so really im deciding whether or not to cut a little off the back side so the flange bottoms out on the housing same as stock. Im actually replacing a pair of lines like that from the motor side. Purpose is to eliminate vibration issues long term for those lines, and to clean up the rubber lines I have. (this is on my van swap, so aftermarket oil cooler anyway with 10AN fittings on it)
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#7
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Quote:
Im talking about the fittings the cooler lines attach to on the engine side. This fitting to the housing union instead, not the fitting to cooler line basically
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#8
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Quote:
I have the exact fitting you describe, its the blue ones in the above pic, they are pretty nice. I will cut them a little shorter and find crush washers
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#9
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ok, heres a pic showing what I needed to do. This shows the stock fittings, and the aftermarket fittings, and one of them cut down to the same length threads as stock.
The second two pics show another oil filter housing that also doesn't have a sealing ring on it! I don't understand how these things dont leak, could I have numerous housings that the sealing washers have been removed? This one is from my 240 motor, and I ran this filter for 10+k before pulling it off, no leaks from the fittings.
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#10
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Quote:
here is what I was trying to do, opposite end of the plumbing from what you did- First pic shows the welded stock pip with -10AN fittings installed on the housing side, and second shows the same thing using the adapters, simplifies the situation nicely provided it doesn't leak. I used fuel filter head aluminum washers on the aftermarket fittings
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