I used to have door locks that would only work intermittently, but now they've basically stopped working all together. They work when the car is on, and they work for a short while after the car is shut off. The climate control system and transmission work fine though, and the car shuts off well. I'm pretty sure that I have a vacuum leak somewhere minor, but I'm really dreading the process of finding out where. I think that if I'm going to get into it, I should just replace all or as many of the vacuum lines as I can. Is this a major major job? Will I need miles of vacuum line? Should I just focus my energy on finding the leaking culprit? Sometimes I wish the door locks were motor driven and this damn vacuum system wasn't there. Thanks for the help

Alex

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1983 300D (parked for four years)
2012 VW Sportwagen TDI Manual
2001 Miata SE
1962 Chevrolet Corvair Rampside

I think this is the inevitable procedure that every 123 owner has to suffer through. Fortunately you've isolated your problem to the locking system. The first thing to do, is check all of the vacuum elements in the doors, fuel door, and trunk. From what I've experienced, the trunk lock and fuel door lock are the ones that are more likely to leak. Yes, to check the ones in the doors, you need to remove the interior panels. But while you're at it, you should replace the plastic weather shield (yours is probably deteriorating, like mine were) and lubricate all of the window regulators with lithium grease.

It might be a good idea to replace the rubber fittings where the yellow plastic lines connect to each other and to the vacuum elements. Those are much more prone to leaking, than the plastic lines themselves. The driver's door lock has several rubber hose connections, it might be a good idea to replace those as well.

OK, Speedy, I think you need to write up the FAQ page for vacuum leak and door maintenance... how about it ?

I looked at your web page.... those dual Air Horns would sure come in handy...

What is the vacuum adjuster deal for the headlights... what does it allow you to do?

The 'eight' hole wheels.... 1. WHy? 2. How ? I see another FAQ page assignment here....

Pearl White Metallic Paint ....... YES !

Looks like you don't have much experience with stereo gear.... so just email me if you have any questions.... Greg

As for the stereo gear, I'm still experimenting with it. This will probably be a very, very long experiment. I plan to try some different setups this summer, when I have a break from school.

The vacuum adjustable feature on the Euro headlights are useful if you are carrying a heavy load in the rear, which causes the front to be higher than the rear. You can "re aim" the headlights so that they shine properly on the road.

OH,,, OK, I thought maybe it allowed you to "wink" at other MB drivers..... I knew a guy with a 64 Stingray that could do that.... Greg

Follow this link, Alex for help with your door locks. The procedure as outlined by Icesailor really makes this a logical way to go - Plus you don't need a vacuum guage.
82 300TD A/C problem

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Dave
1995 C280
1999 Triumph Daytona 955I - my speed fix.
1982 300TD - Gone, but not forgotten.

thanks everyone for the insight. Now that I have some extra garage space I'll try and hunt down that vacuum leak soon. Sounds like a real pain to deal with.

Alex

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1983 300D (parked for four years)
2012 VW Sportwagen TDI Manual
2001 Miata SE
1962 Chevrolet Corvair Rampside

I would only replace the leaking element(s) and as many suspect connectors as you see. Attempting to replace the vacuum lines themself would be somewhat insane. If by chance one of the lines is leaking, it is easy to identify and splice, but unless it is at a door hinge (as it was in my 300), the lines really don't seem like candidates for leakage.

later

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84 300TD - 235k - Farbe "Surfblau" bought at 213k
87 300SDL - 131k - Farbe "PimpGold" bought at 115k
00 Klepper Faltboot Expedition Double