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Brake Caliper & Pad Question
I have the rear brake calipers from my 84 300D on the bench for rebuilding. They were not engaging at all and I was stopping with totally the front brakes. So I have them all apart (not the casing) and am cleaning them up. It was difficult to get the pads out of the slots because of the rust, but now that I have the rust cleaned up, the pads still go into the slots with some difficulty. I am wondering if it is common practice to file the side of the brake pad so they slide in easier, or is there a danger of getting too much play and having the pads vibrate and chatter when engaging.
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85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale** 84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds 00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold) 15 Subaru Outback 43K 11 Subaru Outback 67K 98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now. 30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60 |
#2
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if the pads are not rusty, there's no reason to file them... clean the calipers better.
be sure to grease the spot where the pads touch the calipers. it aids the pads release.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
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I agree don't modify stuff beyond the realms of cleaning. If the pads are of a really cheap brand you might want to consider something more prestigious!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#4
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Make sure the pistons are pushed back far enough to allow the pads to slide in.
No need to file anywhere.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#5
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By chance, does the friction material overlap (extend beyond) the the upper and/or lower edge of metal backing plate?
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#6
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I grind the edge if they are too tight.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#7
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All the cheap ones I used have fit. But, I would have no issue filing a bit off if they were a little sticky.
If I had that happen to new locally bought Brake Pads I might take them back as the Local Auto Parts Store is close by.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#8
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Definitely do not file the pads. Appropriate disc brake pad lubricant is the best to use but not excessively.
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#9
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why not?
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#10
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The issue is the fact that corrosion is constant over the years on the calipers and cleaning them up requires more than a cursory pass with a wire brush. If you feel the surface where the pads ride, it will not have a good finish, despite the fact that the surface rust is removed. It is necessary to take a file and remove the pitted surface so you achieve a satisfactory surface finish. Add a bit of grease designed for brake calipers to those surfaces and the pads should now insert without any issues.
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#11
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Agreed
Quote:
.
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#12
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Cleaning up the caliber (filing) seems to be the best way to go. If the pads do not fit that would be a pretty good indication of a poor quality pad.
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#13
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never had any trouble grinding the edge a bit.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#14
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Sometimes the backs of pads are powder coated (or painted) and they get high spots on them. I have taken a knife a scraped the paint off these edges making a pad that was difficult to fit slide right in.
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily 2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily 1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended 1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper 1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL 2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped 1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above 1992 BMW 525i -traded in 1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103 1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one 1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold |
#15
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The pads are Texar. I ordered them from this site when I last replaced the pads. I stay away from cheap parts as I almost always pay the price later.
The pistons being out too far are not an issue as they are not in the caliper right now. I am still cleaning the calipers. The friction material does not extend beyond the metal backing plate. I have cleaned up the surface rust on the calipers with a wire brush and did a cursory pass by with a file but did not want to get too aggressive. I would not say that surface is without pits. Assuming that the pads are sized correctly, I think I need to use my file on the caliper a bit more aggressively to achieve the smooth surface that whunter is referring to. I definitely do not have that yet. Regarding my next step while I have the calipers out, I am planning on priming and painting them. I considered having them sand blasted and painted but I really do not want to get that carried away with this project. I am wire brushing the caliper body but cannot really get it down to a shiny surface everywhere because of all of the curves and crevices. I considered using Por 15 to convert any remaining rust and then using an etching primer. Not sure if I should just use the etching primer and skip the Por 15. I don't want to go to a bunch of trouble just to find that after a few months the paint has all peeled off. Any suggestions?
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85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale** 84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds 00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold) 15 Subaru Outback 43K 11 Subaru Outback 67K 98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now. 30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60 |
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