No Start 1982 300d - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Nick300cd · #1 02-28-2014, 08:47 AM

It's minus 20c. Synthetic 5/40. Was plugged in. Seems to have no cranking speed after glowing. Turns over and 'chugs" like it wants to start if I don't glow it. Have another car hooked up with cables and a batt charger w 50a boost. No luck so far. Any advice?
Cheers

Maxbumpo · #2 02-28-2014, 08:53 AM

DO NOT use starter fluid / ether. There is a small chance that will crack a pre-chamber and destroy the engine.

Keep the block heater plugged in.

Hold the accel. pedal to the floor while cranking, crank for 30 - 60 seconds at a time (the Bosch starters are VERY robust and designed to handle this, read the owner's manual cold start procedure). Once the engine starts to catch, keep cranking the starter until RPMs begin to build and you are confident that it will keep running with no starter helping.

You simply need to get enough electrical power into the battery and to the glow plugs / starter to get her going. The jumper cables need to be really nice big beefy cables to provide all the current you will need. Have the jumping car running to provide more amperage. If you have help, they should elevate the engine speed of the donor car to provide more amperage.

Nick300cd · #3 02-28-2014, 09:01 AM

It doesn't "chug" at all after holding the accelerator down. Could I have flooded it?

whunter · #4 02-28-2014, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick300cd

It's minus 20c. Synthetic 5/40. Was plugged in. Seems to have no cranking speed after glowing. Turns over and 'chugs" like it wants to start if I don't glow it. Have another car hooked up with cables and a batt charger w 50a boost. No luck so far. Any advice?
Cheers

I suggest removing the battery, take it in the house to warm and charge.

.

strelnik · #5 02-28-2014, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

I suggest removing the battery, take it in the house to warm and charge.

.

A warm charged battery, even a second one, is a big help.

BUT: Have you checked for corrosion on the ground side?

True story: my older 86 6.2 diesel with NO block heater started better than my newer 1993 6.2 with a blovk heater.

I checked everything and found that the GM-dealer cable between the two batteries was only a 10 AWG wire!!!! .

I replaced this cable and then added a second no 6 AWG cable between the (-) cable and the frame.

Today it was below 0 and the 1993 6.2 liter started faster than anything-= 2 seconds and roaring!

The ground made all the difference and will also reduce wear on your starter.

Every time I have reinforced ground cables, I have turned a no-start into a fast start vehicle.

CHECK ALL CABLES and CONNECTORS!

Maxbumpo · #6 02-28-2014, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick300cd

It doesn't "chug" at all after holding the accelerator down. Could I have flooded it?

No, you cannot flood a diesel engine. If you have the owner's manual, read the cold start procedure.

Maxbumpo · #7 02-28-2014, 09:44 AM

Attached is page from owner's manual for cars with OM617 turbo engine.

Nick300cd · #8 02-28-2014, 10:05 AM

Okay got it fired! Thanks for the help. I must have a ground problem. I added an extra ground cable using another booster cable and the cranking speed improved and I could get it to spin for longer than 12seconds. With the accelerator to the floor and some cranking speed it fired. The ground cable has no green corrosion but it is rock hard. Will have to intoa warm garage to check it out. I'm frozen! Any advice on the ground checks?

Maxbumpo · #9 02-28-2014, 10:19 AM

Yay!!!

Local auto parts store will probably be your best bet. Bigger is better. They may have pre-fabricated stuff. Take them your old cable so they know how long and what connectors for the ends.

Diesel911 · #10 02-28-2014, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick300cd

Okay got it fired! Thanks for the help. I must have a ground problem. I added an extra ground cable using another booster cable and the cranking speed improved and I could get it to spin for longer than 12seconds. With the accelerator to the floor and some cranking speed it fired. The ground cable has no green corrosion but it is rock hard. Will have to intoa warm garage to check it out. I'm frozen! Any advice on the ground checks?

The Engine to Chassis Ground Cable is under the Car on the Driverside attached to the Bell Housing and Chassis.

For someone else having this issue if you put Your Volt Meter on the Battery and have someone else Crank the Starter you can watch the Voltage drop. That will give you some idea if it is the Battery or not.