Hey everyone, im on to Fixing my fuel leaks an noticed #6 is really bad, all other are great an dry , replaced multiple times an still leaks. I noticed the Nipple is slighty marred which is causing my Leak. Could i possibly put a clamp on it or should i replace The injector itself?? Thanks

If you can find a clamp small enough, I see no reason not to try it

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Dremel tool. Jeweler's file.

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Transfer the leaking one to the very end and put the the plug Filled with Silicon Sealant over the nipple with the mared/scratched Nipple.
If it cold were you are I don't know how long it will take for the Silicon to Cure. You might need blow it with a Hair Dryer for several Hours.

I don't know if the mentioned clamp idea would work or not but they do have those tiny spring clams that are made from spring sheet Metal; the ones you squeeze to open.
NAPA might have them to buy as a single Clamp.
However, they will not be made for Mercedes so you need to take a sample of the Hose with you.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Try lawn equipment fuel line (Tygon?) in as tight size as you can get on the nipple as least on the leaky nipple.

Sixto
87 300D

I have seen a cable tie (zip tie) used to get rid of a leak. Wrap it around a couple of times & pull it as tight as you can.

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Hey every1 jus reporting back.. Had few extra small clamps that are used for the air lines are worked great. But the injector body is still leaking so i'll be replacing #6 with a new injector, was wondering ive read b4 that the injectors are pre balanced b4 so its pretty much r & r correct? Thanks every1

New injectors should be set to within factory tolerance but who's to say your injectors aren't worn beyond that tolerance? Having your injectors cleaned and balanced as a set (~$100 plus shipping) is a better investment than buying a single new injector (~$60) to fix a leak.

Sixto
87 300D

If you have a bad leaky Nipple, and what you have done so far is not stopping the leak. Break off the Nipple, and have the hole zapped with a welder, and use it for the last injector. If welding is too severe, try JB Weld.


Charlie

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Yeah i here what your sayin sixto. I have a local bosch fuel injection shop so i can run them by there an get them all balanced within running order. #6 would need to be rebuilt tho she has a constant rim of fuel around the upper body. Recently did glow plugs and delivery valve o rings an stopped those leaks and all thats left is that #6 injector an small misc. leaks here and there that i plan on getting too after.

The Diesel Nozzle/Pop Tester will not show a leak in Injector Fuel Return Nipples.

Also the Nozzle/Pop Tester seldom shows a leak between the Injector Nut and the upper body unless there is a hair line Crack in the Injector Nut or there is an extremely bad fit between the innards of the Injector.

What I am saying is that you can build up a set of Injectors and do the text book lapping of the parts and do every thing right and maybe one out of 100-150 may develop a leak where the 2 halves of the Injector screw together.

Taking apart the Injector and lapping the parts again fixes it. Or sometime something ling lint from a Rag got caught between the precision surfaces.

In any event a tiny leak seldom shows up when you Pop Test the Injectors. And testing them on the Nozzle/Pop Tester is not the same thing as having them torque into the Cylinder Head on a running Engine.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Well i was debating buying the pop tester kit from ************** to rebuild all my injectors because they almost have 100k on them, and i plan on keeping the car . So later down the line if any problems arise i can pull an injector an test it myself . So like your saying very rare for it to have a cracked body, more likely jus needs to be cleaned an surfaces to be lapped nice an smooth should prevent my leak on that injector . Anybody ever use that specific kit? Thanks

The forum removes references to competing suppliers so we don't know what pop tester kit you plan to buy.

Sixto
87 300D

The one from kent bergsma

If one Injector is leaking between the upper and lower 1/2s you can take the Injector apart and lap the precision Surfaces clean the dickens out of it and any holes or ports and re-assemble it with the Proper Torque. That usually fixes leaks in that area and it has a minimal change on the Injector opening/pop pressure unless you remove a lot of metal during the lapping.
I don't recall anyone mentioning this but the little return Nipples are sort of pressed in and the Metal is wedged over and around it to seal it. Once in a while they come loose anyway and leak. However, they do not come out and there is no way to re-swedge them.

As the other Member suggested you can cut that particular leaking nipple off and weld over the Hole and move that Injector to the Last Cylinder or replace the complete Upper Body.

The disadvantage of replacing the Upper Body is that unless you get extremely lucky the Opening/Pop Pressure needs to be re-set because the replacement upper body had different dimensions.
Vince Walden how to rebuild IDI Injectors.

http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=28

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel