Just got the Superior shift kit - questions - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Cummmins · #16 02-11-2014, 11:57 AM

Very good pictures - thank you. After reviewing your pictures, and looking at the instructions it made sense. I see that the "L" looking piece for the control valves is the lock in the VB that holds them in. It is totally obvious once you figure it out!

Installed the rest of the kit last night being very careful and following the instructions, to be very clean, and be sure that the valves moved freely when reinstalled. I replaced the two spring trains in k1 and k2 with the single red (with factory inner spring), and purple spring. I replaced the k1 &2 control springs with the white springs. I also replaced the b1 spring with the orange spring. As a note my b1 spring was broken into two pieces. The throttle valve was also replaced with the red spring. I didn't replace any of the springs for 1st gear in steps 6-8 as 1st felt good to me. What I found interesting was that according to the instructions my trans is a "late" unit because it had two spring trains in k1 & k2. But, according the the control spring and valve line-up it is an "early" unit because the springs were on the outside. I was not sure of the torque for the VB to trans bolts, so I torqued them to 89 in/lbs since they are the same size bolts used on other VB's that I have done.

The small spring spring loaded check valve that is mentioned on the helpful information sheet did fall out when I was working on the k1-k2 part of the VB. I was not sure exactaly what the instructions meant by the "uninterrupted" ring on the valve. I reinstalled it with the smooth end facing the plate, and the end that wasn't completely smooth facing the VB.

When I separated the VB I did what was recommended by removing the two screws, flipping it over and pulling off the section with the k1 and k2 valves leaving the separator plate on the other half. The only issue that I had was that the separator plate stuck to the top half on one side as I was pulling it off for a split second, then dropped back onto the lower half. It only lifted up less than a quarter of an inch. None of the balls exited the VB, but a couple of them did wonder into different areas of the VB as they stuck to the plate and rolled downhill. After searching for a diagram of this portion of the VB, I carefully lifted the separator plate and went about checking valve and ball locations. I also used the witness marks on the plate to verify placement. After replacing the balls and carefully studying my VB vs the picture several times, they looked identical.

Results - I have only put a few miles on the car so far. Just enough to get it up to operating temperature and check the fluid level.
The good - the 2-3, and the 3-4 shifts do feel better, and they are not stacked on top of each other like they were.

THE BAD: Looks like I have second gear starts. Before I could feel the trans downshift from 2nd to first when pulling away form a stop, and then definately feel the 1-2 shift and so on. Now, I don't feel the slight 2nd to 1st downshift when pulling away from a stop, or the 1-2 shift. It actually doesn't feel like it is really being lugged pulling away from a stop. If I put it in gear and let off of the brake it will just start to roll forward. Playing with the shifter I can downshift from 4th to 3rd, and 3rd to 2nd. Leaving the shifter in "L" and accelerating, I don't feel the 1-2 shift. I don't understand this because I didn't mess with the 1st gear springs or valves at all. Does anyone have and idea why this may have happened, and what I can do to correct it?

Cummmins · #17 02-11-2014, 12:48 PM

I just stumbled across this pic. The governor boost valve notes are interesting. Maybe this valve could be stuck? I would like to have a list of a few things to check before I pull the valve body again.

722.3 valve body - Bing Images

tangofox007 · #18 02-11-2014, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cummmins

Leaving the shifter in "L" and accelerating, I don't feel the 1-2 shift. I don't understand this because I didn't mess with the 1st gear springs or valves at all.

You did state that you replaced the B1 spring. (Which I presume to mean the B1 accumulator spring.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cummmins

I also replaced the b1 spring with the orange spring.

Cummmins · #19 02-11-2014, 02:42 PM

I guess I should have said that I didn't knowingly replace any first gear springs

The instructions didn't specify what it was for. My factory spring was broken, so I replaced it with the one from the kit. Has this spring caused problems?

Cummmins · #20 02-11-2014, 06:13 PM

I just noticed that if I am in 4th at about 40mph, and floor it, that the trans doesn't kick-down like it did before. Maybe this info will help... The 2-3 and 3-4 shift quality and timing are much nicer now.

tangofox007 · #21 02-11-2014, 06:53 PM

Is your throttle cable properly adjusted?

Cummmins · #22 02-11-2014, 11:08 PM

I would say that it is ballpark close. I tried from about 1mm of slack , to about 1mm of tension on the TV cable. It has about 1/2 turn of tension on it now. I just pulled the vb again and didn't see anything obvious. I will take a closer look at it tomorrow.

Cummmins · #23 02-13-2014, 11:23 PM

Found it!

The TV cable was not moving because the linkage had jumped over the finger that was supposed to lock it in place when I pulled the cable off to adjust it. After fixing the linkage, it now works as it should!

tangofox007 · #24 02-15-2014, 01:16 PM

That's great. You did good. I had my valve body off and on about eight times before I got it right.

Cummmins · #25 02-17-2014, 05:47 PM

After putting a few miles on it, I am happy with how the car shifts. Replacing the broken spring that I found, and making the other adjustments has made quite a difference. I should probably leave well enough alone, but I am wondering if there is more that I can do... Anything above about 15% is perfect, I wouldn't want any of it changed at all. Being very picky, I would like to change the 5-15% throttle shifts a bit. Not sure that this is possible without a lot of work. I would like to soften up the 1-2, and 2-3, and extend the 3-4 to a slightly higher rpm. I am afraid that if I install the softer springs for first that it will make the harder acceleration shifts too soft. I don't really have a choice on the 2-3 since it says to replace the entire 2-3 spring train with a single spring (this fixed my cold shift flair), and on the 3-4 if I tighten up the TV cable any more I am going to beyond the 1mm of pre-load window and could make the 1-2 and 2-3 more firm under light throttle which I don't want. I really don't want to loosen up the TV any more either because it almost feels like it wants to flair the 3-4 if I do. Any ideas?