w210 smokes on start up - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Westy_46 · #16 01-30-2014, 06:59 PM

The shutoff valve to injection pump O-ring part number is: 021-997-75-48-M14. Mine smoked when cold at one time. Replaced the o-ring, and the smoke went away.

turbozeke418 · #17 01-30-2014, 08:21 PM

sounds like an easy enough fix...i'll give it a try!

Chris W. · #18 02-01-2014, 09:45 PM

Regarding my block heater tripping my GFI outlet, the first thing I did was to change the block heater cord - unfortunately this didn't help. I therefore think it's the heater itself. We all know how easy it is to unscrew the block heater and replace...... Next time I pull the engine out of the car I'll give it a try!

And I still think nothing is really wrong with the OP's fuel system.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D

whunter · #19 02-02-2014, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris W.

Regarding my block heater tripping my GFI outlet, the first thing I did was to change the block heater cord - unfortunately this didn't help. I therefore think it's the heater itself. We all know how easy it is to unscrew the block heater and replace...... Next time I pull the engine out of the car I'll give it a try!

And I still think nothing is really wrong with the OP's fuel system.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D

Once installed the block heater is IMO easy.

If the engine never had a block heater:
Removing the blank off plug to install a block heater is seriously difficult.

.

turbozeke418 · #20 02-14-2014, 01:47 AM

I have the O-ring and going to attempt to install it when this damn snow stops. Does anyone have a link to an article for replacing it? Also, I don't know if I mentioned this before but the engine really shakes BADLY when it starts spitting out the black smoke. You can definitely tell its after the glow plugs have cycled off. I wish I could just have them stay on for a minute or two after the car starts instead of just 30 seconds.

jay_bob · #21 02-14-2014, 09:02 AM

I don't have a link but it's pretty straightforward.

The biggest problem is that your flexible fuel lines going to the valve (there are 3) may be stiff and brittle if they are original. On my car I had just changed all those lines so they were not brittle. If you try to unplug the lines then you will have to replace the o-rings or you will get leaks.

Remember the fuel supply system on this car operates at pressures below atmospheric. The fuel is sucked out of the tank by the lift pump and delivered to the filter and on to the input of the IP at about 8 or 9 psia. So if you have any leaks on the fuel supply side, they will not spurt fuel, they will suck air.

Of course if you have a leak between the delivery valve and the injector, that is ~2500 psi.

The actual changeout of the o-ring is easy.

Empty the washer bottle, take off cap with heater lines, reach in and unseat the heater coil from the nipple in the bottom of the bottle, lift heater assembly out and set aside (no need to break coolant hoses).

Unplug coolant level sensor, you can leave the sensor in the bottle.
Remove pump(s), pull the the pump free from the side of bottle, the intake sticks into a grommet in the bottom of the pump location, no need to remove hoses or the electrical plug.

Remove fastener (I think 1 10 mm nut) and lift washer bottle out and set aside.

**Added step - be sure the area around the fuel shutoff is clean (use brakecleen spray and a toothbrush) you are post-filter here and any contaminants introduced here will clog your injectors ***

Using a T25 Torx bit (I found a T25 on a 1/4 inch drive socket at Lowes) remove the two screws holding the shutoff valve to the IP body.

Carefully pull the valve straight out (parallel to the ground, pull toward the left side of the car). You will lose a slight amount of fuel.

Change the o-ring on the back of the valve. This is the connection that brings the fuel into the IP to be injected.

Rub a little clean fuel on the o-ring, this will help it get seated in the body of the IP.

Reinsert the valve into the IP and install the screws.

Leave the washer bottle out for now so you can check for leaks. You will get the "display defective" error on the message display but that is because you still have the washer sensor unplugged.

When you are satisfied reinstall the washer bottle and reconnect the sensor, the error will self reset the next time you start the car.

turbozeke418 · #22 02-28-2014, 11:39 PM

I still haven't done anything with the O-ring yet. I got the block heater cord and installed it and when I start the car up every time, it purs like a kitten. No idle issues no smoke. Just perfect. Does this still sound like a fuel O-ring issue?