190D belt tensioner removal - who designed this $hit - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Obamalamadingdong · #16 02-03-2014, 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

How can there be no room to get vice grips or a socket type extractor on the water pump pulley bolts with the radiator in place? Doesn't the 190D 2.2 have clearance of at least the thickness of the fan and clutch between the water pump pulley and the radiator? This looks like plenty of room, far more than in a 124.133 -

... though the water pump pulley bolts look recessed which presents another problem.

Does the 190D 2.2 have an electric fan clutch like the 190E 2.3?

Sixto
87 300D

Yes it should have the electro magnetic fan clutch.

ah-kay · #17 02-03-2014, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Obamalamadingdong

I don't understand why the radiator is removed, are you saying the fan and it's clutch can't be removed because the radiator is in the way? just looking quickly at the 601 FSM there should be 90 mm between the front of the fan blades and the rear of the radiator, that's more than 3 1/2" of space between them, more than just about any Mercedes I've ever seen!

Remove the shroud or at least release it and move it out of the way, remove the center collar screw and the fan comes off, carefully and thoughtfully remove the four Allenhead bolts and pulley should be able to be pulled off, you might be able to get the tensioner off then if it will fit past the magnetic coupling, if not unbolt the coupling from behind disconnect the wiring and that will pull off, then the tensioner should get past easily.

This serpentine tensioner is a piece of cake compared to many others, you can actually see what you're doing!

There is tons of room for the OM601 but the shroud is in the way. I just find it easier to remove the radiator and the shroud to gain maximum access. I could remove the center bolt for the fan but I could not remove the 4 6mm bolts which hold the wp pulley in place. I rounded the hex bolts and that was the end of it.

I decided to remove the whole WP and worked on the bolts on the bench. I used a heavy duty bolt extractor and managed to undo the bolts. So all is well. Thanks everyone's help. I do not own gas MBZ so I don't want to know about the M103, so to speak.

sixto · #18 02-03-2014, 01:59 AM

Then you'll never have to deal with an M103 water pump

Sixto
87 300D

ah-kay · #19 02-09-2014, 01:25 AM

I changed out the tensioner on the OM603 ( 87 300D ) and the tensioner can come out without removing the WP pulley. It is better than the OM601. However, the radiator and shroud is in the way and it makes life difficult.

Mxfrank · #20 02-09-2014, 05:03 PM

I've done this job a few times on my 2.5 turbo. There was no need to remove the radiator...just the shroud. It's a bit easier on the 2.5, because it has a viscous fan clutch. But it shouldn't be too much harder for you.

Do you have the large allen socket to remove the rocker? You're going to need to apply a good deal of force, because it's in there with thread locker.

Obamalamadingdong · #21 02-09-2014, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

I've done this job a few times on my 2.5 turbo. There was no need to remove the radiator...just the shroud. It's a bit easier on the 2.5, because it has a viscous fan clutch. But it shouldn't be too much harder for you.

Do you have the large allen socket to remove the rocker? You're going to need to apply a good deal of force, because it's in there with thread locker.

Well in fairness, the OP mentioned in his post just prior to yours an 87 300D so that's a 124 chassis, as it appears yours might also be. His has a 6 cylinder 603 and yours a 5 cylinder 602, they both use the same viscous clutch & fan setup, but in his situation there is the extra cylinder!

A 124 with a 603 has precious little room between the fan and the radiator, just barely enough for the Allen Head bolt on the fan clutch to back all its way out. I just measured my 87 still with the original aluminum fan and there is exactly 1 1/4" between the fan and the radiator.

I suspect with a 602 and the difference of that missing cylinder split fore and aft of the engine mounts yours probably has almost another 2" of room.

Later 124's came with the two piece shroud which makes things easier also.

ah-kay · #22 02-09-2014, 11:05 PM

I have not worked on a OM602 so I cannot comment.

1) I have removed the viscous fan on 300SDL, OM603 engine, with radiator in place. It was royal pain in the a$$ as there is little room to insert the allen key.

2) I have NOT removed the viscus fan on a W124, OM603 engine, with radiator in place. There seems to be even less room than the W126. I do not even want to go there. Has anyone done it successfully?

3) OM601 has ton of room as it is 2 cyl short.

What I am saying is that the design of the tensioner, shroud, limited space makes R&R the front of the engine components very difficult. Remove the radiator makes access better but it is messy with coolant and ATF connections. All in all, I do not think it was well thought out.

Obamalamadingdong · #23 02-09-2014, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

I have not worked on a OM602 so I cannot comment.

1) I have removed the viscous fan on 300SDL, OM603 engine, with radiator in place. It was royal pain in the a$$ as there is little room to insert the allen key.

2) I have NOT removed the viscus fan on a W124, OM603 engine, with radiator in place. There seems to be even less room than the W126. I do not even want to go there. Has anyone done it successfully?

3) OM601 has ton of room as it is 2 cyl short.

What I am saying is that the design of the tensioner, shroud, limited space makes R&R the front of the engine components very difficult. Remove the radiator makes access better but it is messy with coolant and ATF connections. All in all, I do not think it was well thought out.

That's why they have developed a special tool! The stubby 8 mm Allen, Stahlwille makes one probably HAZET does also. If someone is trying to get it done with any old tool of course they will experience difficulties, as far as the design any engineer understands that every design is compromise, in this case the chassis exists as a parameter and the OM603 does as well so the compromise is getting just enough space to get things accomplished and the modified tool allows that.

hsmith · #24 02-10-2014, 01:57 PM

Use a bench grinder and shave off some of the bottom of the tensioner arm. It doesn't take much and then you can barely slip it on over water pump pully.

Hugh Sr.

1984 190d 125,549

JHZR2 · #25 01-13-2023, 01:45 AM

I’m going to buy a w201 with a 601 engine soon. I’m going to drive it home long distance and I want to be ready for belt issues.

Is there a photo of the 201/601 front end/pulleys so I can better visualize the issue?

vstech · #26 01-13-2023, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

I’m going to buy a w201 with a 601 engine soon. I’m going to drive it home long distance and I want to be ready for belt issues.

Is there a photo of the 201/601 front end/pulleys so I can better visualize the issue?

I see two photos in this thread...

what photo are you looking for?

JHZR2 · #27 01-13-2023, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I see two photos in this thread...

what photo are you looking for?

There’s a grainy (ruined because of the photobucket issue) picture of the front of a nondescript car with no radiator or structure… and I can see the tensioner Allen so I’m not grasping the issue there.

And then a photo of the top of an engine that isnt helpful.

Obviously I have a collection of 602/603 engines in my fleet. And I have plenty of experience replacing pullleys/belts/tensioners on them. So I’m trying to see better what to expect on a 601.

I’m buying a 1985 190D and driving it a long distance. So understanding the potential issue in case for whatever reason I encounter a belt failure, is my desire.

A simple better photo of the interference and overall issue.