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  #1  
Old 02-06-2014, 11:13 AM
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W201 rear anti-roll bar chassis mounting side stuck bolt

G'day Folks,

I think I already have the best solution to my problem but I thought I'd ask anyway.

The problem is this =>



Bolt snapped off on removal of brackets which hold the rear anti-roll bar / anti-sway bar to the chassis.



I was a bit disappointed when this happened but thought it would drill out quite easily.

I was wrong.

Drilling through the length of the remaining stud went well - I don't think I've made contact with the threads of the nut that is welded to the bracket attached to the chassis.

Banged in an easy out =>



Unfortunately the easy out (both 5mm and 6mmm sizes) is starting to stretch and strip



The next occurrence will be snapped easy out in hole - I'm not going there.

As the bracket can not be removed from the chassis with out a cutting disc; and as the nut can not be removed from the bracket; and as the bracket is flexing with just an easy out in there...

...options like welding on another nut / bigger easy out / more power / more torque isn't going to end well.

Cutting a new thread through the nut on the bracket always makes me nervous - this is an anti-roll bar and thus could be a stability problem (just when you need it) should the new threads fail.

Access to remove the nut on the bracket is tight but I might be able to do that. But I think I might just drill a large hole through the nut and then use a longer bolt and a nylock nut on top of the stuck one as there is enough space for that - although getting a spanner on it will be interesting.



Any thoughts?
Attached Thumbnails
W201 rear anti-roll bar chassis mounting side stuck bolt-w201-rear-anti-roll-bar-parts.jpg  
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #2  
Old 02-07-2014, 12:23 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,452
It's oh so quiet...
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #3  
Old 02-08-2014, 12:57 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,452
shhhh
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #4  
Old 02-08-2014, 10:13 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,451
First off, don't be too disappointed if you have to weld in a new bracket, it happens.

What I would do is to try to drill out the bolt. Use a small drill and go slow, keep it centered as best you can. Gradually enlarge the hole with larger drills. Once you get close to the major diameter, the old bolt should collapse and come out with less persuasion. If you have enough material, run a tap through to chase the old threads. There's less stress on these brackets than you would think, as long as you have a few good threads you'll be fine. You can always use a longer bolt and a second nut if there aren't enough surviving threads.

If you can't rescue the old nut, which is too often what happens with me, your idea of cutting a slightly larger hole and running a nut and bolt through would be fine.
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  #5  
Old 02-09-2014, 04:56 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,452
Thanks I might do a combination of screw thread cutting with a safety nut on top.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
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