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  #1  
Old 02-08-2014, 09:59 PM
uberwasser's Avatar
1979 & 1985 300D's
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,097
Removal of front and rear sway bars

I am going to be pulling the front and rear sway bars on a 1980 300TD tomorrow for future install on my 300D.

I will not have a complete set of tools available. I'll have most normal stuff, though. Sockets, wrenches, vice grips, hammer, yadda yadda.

I looked at the FSM and it sounds fairly straight forward, however the description and pictures are a bit short on this section.

Are there any gotchas to these two jobs?

Thanks in advance for guidance.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

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  #2  
Old 02-08-2014, 10:05 PM
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Location: South Carolina
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Pretty easy ... you have to remove the brake booster and battery tray to have access to the brackets which hold the sway bar. Make sure the engine cannot "rock" or move backwards as the swaybar will get "jammed" in the back. The tolerance to remove it is pretty close, but it should slide right out.

I am headed to the yard tomorrow weather and family permitting to grab one. It's less than an hour operation barring no issues ...
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  #3  
Old 02-09-2014, 10:16 AM
uberwasser's Avatar
1979 & 1985 300D's
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tucson, AZ
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Thanks greazzer. That's my plan today as well. There is a wagon as the yard that has been a real treasure trove over the last few weeks. I keep going back to get more stuff. Got a non-turbo oil cooler (NLA from MBZ), a 9-blade fan to replace my 6-blade, two pristine front power window regulators, rear ATE calipers. Also hoping to find a decent blower motor in it.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!
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  #4  
Old 02-09-2014, 10:28 AM
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The brackets are held in place by 2 x 13mm nuts each side. The removal of the brake booster is a PITA since you have to remove the 4x 10mm nuts down under the dash at the brake pedal assembly. The 17 or 19mm nuts on the upper control arms are pretty accessable. The battery tray could be a PITA if the bolts have rusted into nubs. They are 10mm. Overall, I have removed 4 SBs and excluding the engine rocking backwards, I think it's about an hour. Of course, junk yard cars are not treated with all the love we do our DDs but without brutalizing the donor, it's still ez pezy. Our weather is still not so hot today. Overcast and very damp. poop.
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  #5  
Old 02-09-2014, 11:22 AM
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1979 & 1985 300D's
 
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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Thankfully I've found this particular car to be in good shape. Not much corrosion. In fact I can't see any obvious reasons why it's at the yard. No signs of catastrophic failure. It had seen recent repairs and maintenance before going to the salvage yard - new front window regulators, newish brake pads all the way around, relatively fresh injector return lines, oil cooler lines looked fairly new and so did the transmission cooler lines (they were the updated ones with metal wire protection) etc. Oh well, so be it, it's working out well for me.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

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  #6  
Old 02-09-2014, 11:26 AM
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...like a shield of steel
 
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The back anti-roll bar I found to be an easy removal - just rusty bolts

The front however was a monumental pain in the arse - battery tray - brake booster - those little brittle plastic clips that are on the sides of the spring pocket structure - getting the UCA out of the sodding way...

...I was, however, trying not to scratch and damage everything. On a parts car I'd have had a nicer time!
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  #7  
Old 02-09-2014, 05:56 PM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
The brackets are held in place by 2 x 13mm nuts each side. The removal of the brake booster is a PITA since you have to remove the 4x 10mm nuts down under the dash at the brake pedal assembly. The 17 or 19mm nuts on the upper control arms are pretty accessable. The battery tray could be a PITA if the bolts have rusted into nubs. They are 10mm. Overall, I have removed 4 SBs and excluding the engine rocking backwards, I think it's about an hour. Of course, junk yard cars are not treated with all the love we do our DDs but without brutalizing the donor, it's still ez pezy. Our weather is still not so hot today. Overcast and very damp. poop.

One thing I will add, is to remove the clip and pin from the Brake Booster rod to the brake lever first. then the 4 13mm nuts under the dash at the firewall. the top left is a hard one to get to. remove the CC silver box, one 10mm bolt, use an extension and come in from the right of the Brake Lever. I use a 1/4" socket/ratchet.

In PNP I just snip off the brake lines to the master Cylinder with a small pair of bolt cutters. then pull the MC and booster out together.

The last front bar I tried to remove, some idiot removed the transmission, and this let the engine rock back towards the firewall. being in PNP couldn`t find a Jack. so ended up leaving it.

I found that removing the Valve Cover gave me room on one I pulled. If you are careful and the plastic splash shields are brittle and crumbly, you might be able to save them.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Last edited by charmalu; 02-10-2014 at 12:41 AM.
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  #8  
Old 02-09-2014, 06:38 PM
uberwasser's Avatar
1979 & 1985 300D's
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,097
Success. The front bar was fairly tricky, but I could do it again in less time the next time as always. Removing the booster was easy enough, having lots of long extensions in sequence made it easier to remove those 13mm nuts. Took off all of the water hoses in back of the engine. Disconnected all the vacuum lines. Disconnected the throttle linkage on the firewall.

Had to fight the engine a bit as the mounts were probably shot and it was sitting pretty far back.

I think I'll wait to install it on mine until I have the upper control arms out, which won't be very long from now as they need to be done. That would make it easier.

By the way, I figured out why it was at the yard. When removing the rear sway bar I undid the rear soft fuel lines and out came a few ounces of fuel that hadn't come out when the slit open the tank as it came in to the yard. Well, when this fuel came out it was definitely vegetable oil. Not bio-d, and no way it was diesel. This was on a car with no dual tank, no tank heater, no line heaters, no water separator, etc. etc.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!
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  #9  
Old 02-10-2014, 12:51 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,585
If you go back to that yard, pull the injectors and see what the Heat Shields look like. see it they are plugged up.

There is an 82 300D I pulled the GP`s, Lock Ring and Pre-Chambers.
The GP`s had some brown crusty rough feeling stuff burned on the tips.

The PC`s just had a pin hole in the center of the Heat Shields. there was this crusty stuff that had closed the center of the shield, with just a pin hole in the center. All 5 were like that. Do not see how it ran. In the trunk was a brown oily stuff, and the hard lines had this stuff drip out.

I assume some kind of VO, and this may be why it ended up in the yard, along with a slight fender bender to the R/F.

It was a single tank w/o any heaters etc... or mods to the engine.


Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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