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  #1  
Old 02-16-2014, 01:09 PM
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engine with manual trans removal

Hi everyone...

I have the FSM for chassis and engine and maintenance, but not transmission.

I'll be removing the engine and transmission from the 82 Euro 300TD with the 4-speed manual in it tomorrow. I've got all the engine stuff disconnected, and the radiator out....but the gear box?

What do I have to disconnect from the gear box, besides the drive shaft and mounts?

Does the gear selector come out with the gear box, or does it disconnect and stay in the car somehow?

Thanks...

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.
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  #2  
Old 02-16-2014, 02:55 PM
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On the side of the gearbox there are three rods that run to the shifter. Ping off the clips at the gearbox end and try to remove the shifter rods. (Pinging the clips off at the shifter end) Mark which shifter is which.

You've also got the speedometer cable - which usually means removal of the whole (8mm head?) bolt before you can remove the cable. Disconnect the hydraulic clutch line - as the fluid comes from the master brake cylinder reservoir you should ideally blank the line to stop all of the fluid draining out.

As you said => flex disc - so collapse propshaft with big spanners in the middle; and third engine mount / transmission mount.

Try and keep the engine and gearbox mated together during the removal process - don't be tempted to split them whilst they are still in the car unless you have a 2 post lift and a transmission jack; the chances of damaging the gearbox with a car on axle stands is too great in my opinion...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
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  #3  
Old 02-16-2014, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
On the side of the gearbox there are three rods that run to the shifter. Ping off the clips at the gearbox end and try to remove the shifter rods. (Pinging the clips off at the shifter end) Mark which shifter is which.

You've also got the speedometer cable - which usually means removal of the whole (8mm head?) bolt before you can remove the cable. Disconnect the hydraulic clutch line - as the fluid comes from the master brake cylinder reservoir you should ideally blank the line to stop all of the fluid draining out.

As you said => flex disc - so collapse propshaft with big spanners in the middle; and third engine mount / transmission mount.

Try and keep the engine and gearbox mated together during the removal process - don't be tempted to split them whilst they are still in the car unless you have a 2 post lift and a transmission jack; the chances of damaging the gearbox with a car on axle stands is too great in my opinion...
X2!

Exactly what I was going to post.

Dan
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  #4  
Old 02-16-2014, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
On the side of the gearbox there are three rods that run to the shifter. Ping off the clips at the gearbox end and try to remove the shifter rods. (Pinging the clips off at the shifter end) Mark which shifter is which.

You've also got the speedometer cable - which usually means removal of the whole (8mm head?) bolt before you can remove the cable. Disconnect the hydraulic clutch line - as the fluid comes from the master brake cylinder reservoir you should ideally blank the line to stop all of the fluid draining out.

As you said => flex disc - so collapse propshaft with big spanners in the middle; and third engine mount / transmission mount.

Try and keep the engine and gearbox mated together during the removal process - don't be tempted to split them whilst they are still in the car unless you have a 2 post lift and a transmission jack; the chances of damaging the gearbox with a car on axle stands is too great in my opinion...
Dumb question: If I pull the trans and engine at the same time do I need to collapse the drive shaft?

Second dumb question: I'll be moving the trans and drive line to another car-bolting it up to a 617.952 in a one year newer 300 TD. Will this be easier once the engine and trans are out?
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.
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  #5  
Old 02-17-2014, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4diesel View Post
Dumb question: If I pull the trans and engine at the same time do I need to collapse the drive shaft?

...
Well you would think that that would be a possible stage to skip wouldn't you?

Unfortunately in the real world the flex discs are usually really stuck to the output flange on the transmission. If you pull the engine out you are in danger of damaging the centre propshaft bearing support. For removal of the my M102 from my W201 I had to pull the engine + gearbox + front part of the sodding propshaft in one because the flex disc was really really stuck => so the message is you need those big spanners for that reason.

Second reason - when you come to fit the engine and transmission back in the car you need to jiggle the drive line about to make sure it is settled before you tighten everything back into place => rolling the car with weight on wheels backwards and forwards to make sure propshaft + engine mounts + differential + subframe are all "in agreement" with the best position. This is a cure for many a drive line vibration problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4diesel View Post
...

Second dumb question: I'll be moving the trans and drive line to another car-bolting it up to a 617.952 in a one year newer 300 TD. Will this be easier once the engine and trans are out?
I had to read that several times! I think the answer is => ALWAYS bolt transmission to engine before fitting both to the car - much safer way of not damaging transmission (at the cost of a greater likelihood of scratching body work on the way in)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 02-17-2014, 12:46 PM
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You might want to check the bottom plate of your euro IP and make sure its not leaking oil. Both mine are leaking a little and its such a bugger to do with the engine in the car. Also the oil filter housing gasket. When pulling the engine/tranny, undo the four 13mm bolts holding the tranny cross member to the body and pull it with the tranny.
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  #7  
Old 02-17-2014, 01:00 PM
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I have the manual manual pm me if you want it.
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  #8  
Old 02-18-2014, 03:04 PM
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Winmutt, PM sent. Thanks.
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.
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  #9  
Old 02-18-2014, 03:08 PM
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I got it out...yeah! I pulled the entire driveline in one piece. I undid all 6 of the bolts from each flexdisc which provided enough movement to pry each one loose. Then I just slowly pulled the drive line our from the rear of the car.

Now to get it serviced. I have the center bearing, and the boot, I think I'll just pay at shop to do it. But, when I spoke with the shop, asking about the u joint, I was told there's no way that can be replaced???

I'm not sure it needs it, but it has +250,000 miles on it so normally, would make sense with the drive line if out.
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.
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  #10  
Old 02-19-2014, 11:03 AM
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Bump...for more questions. Thanks.
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.
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  #11  
Old 02-19-2014, 11:56 AM
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Those u joints last a very long time.

The Volvo u joints are supposedly not replaceable either but my dad used to do them at home with his modest shop vise and a big hammer.
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  #12  
Old 02-19-2014, 12:22 PM
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The U-Joints are staked in, MB does not use the "C" clips. So you can`t easily knock them out. I sent mine to South Bay Drive Line in San Jose, Ca., he had the stakes machined out and replaced them with Mustang Joints that are grease able. had him do the end Bushings, Center Support and joint for $300.

I had the 85 300D and the 80 240D, both were done when they had way over 300K miles. they do last a long time, but bot had looseness in the joint. they do get a notchy feel when you bend the joint, every one I pulled at a PNP were this way.

Check around the L.A. area, there has to be a shop that does Euro Drivelines.


Charlie

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