To WMO and WVO users: Where do you source your raw materials? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

sun tortise · #16 02-27-2014, 09:52 PM

Events like street festivals, fairs etc.

have not had a problem running WVO mixed with 5 -10% gasoline, unconverted, but only in weather above 50Deg. F.

I let it sit at least a few weeks before filtering thru a 1 micron sock filter.

My 85 300D has gone about 35000 miles on it with no problems so far. 81 240D about 10,000, no problem.

I think most problems occur from conversions gone wrong.

I started mine once when it was 35 Deg. F, cuz I had to move it a few feet.

Started the one I keep in Florida up after sitting over a year with WVO in it a couple of times, with less trouble than starting a gasser that has sat a few months.

The worst was when I had dino in the tank that had developed fungus, & trhat was sitting 9 months. THAT was a PITA.

ed

80 300D Wagon (see other posting), 2 - 85 300D's, 81 240D 4 Spd (my favorite), and 81 VW P.U. Diesel, fair weather work pony

The FNG · #17 02-28-2014, 08:38 AM

Just my $0.02:

I would pick one and stick with it as others have stated. It will gum up and cause issues if mixed.

I chose WMO. I find the term WMO may be misunderstood at times due to the fact that it can cover any source of waste petroleum oils such as mineral oils, hydraulic oils and other lube oils.

Currently, I work at a wind farm and we have 100 some turbines. Each turbine has a padmount transformer containing roughly 600 gallons of oil. When the oil becomes unserviceable due to arcing, gassing, etc, I acquire it for use as fuel. Just to avoid the tree-huger comment about pcb's, our oil was tested and is guaranteed to be less than 1ppm.

Why mention this? Mineral oil as it sits is probably the closest form of oil to diesel available. It runs pretty thin at even the lowest temperatures. It relatively enviro friendly (we had a spill in OK and the EPA said spread the extra oil in a field!--it was more than 100gals). You should be able to find it at a local transformer repair facility in totes (300 gallons).

My last bit here. My blend varies depending on my source of oil, as you might imagine. I cut mineral oil with 10% rug at most and thicker oils like 15-40 with 15-20% at most. I would be wary of going over the 20% rug mark. I choose to filter then fuge, but some just use one or the other. I also add in 2/3oz/gallon of diesel kleen. In my mind, this step helps mitigate the coking issues.

strelnik · #18 02-28-2014, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The FNG

Just my $0.02:

I would pick one and stick with it as others have stated. It will gum up and cause issues if mixed.

I chose WMO. I find the term WMO may be misunderstood at times due to the fact that it can cover any source of waste petroleum oils such as mineral oils, hydraulic oils and other lube oils.

Currently, I work at a wind farm and we have 100 some turbines. Each turbine has a padmount transformer containing roughly 600 gallons of oil. When the oil becomes unserviceable due to arcing, gassing, etc, I acquire it for use as fuel. Just to avoid the tree-huger comment about pcb's, our oil was tested and is guaranteed to be less than 1ppm.

Why mention this? Mineral oil as it sits is probably the closest form of oil to diesel available. It runs pretty thin at even the lowest temperatures. It relatively enviro friendly (we had a spill in OK and the EPA said spread the extra oil in a field!--it was more than 100gals). You should be able to find it at a local transformer repair facility in totes (300 gallons).

My last bit here. My blend varies depending on my source of oil, as you might imagine. I cut mineral oil with 10% rug at most and thicker oils like 15-40 with 15-20% at most. I would be wary of going over the 20% rug mark. I choose to filter then fuge, but some just use one or the other. I also add in 2/3oz/gallon of diesel kleen. In my mind, this step helps mitigate the coking issues.

Thanks very much for this info!

I really think this topic deserves a sticky, especially as more people get involved with it!

funola · #19 02-28-2014, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The FNG

Just my $0.02:

I would pick one and stick with it as others have stated. It will gum up and cause issues if mixed.

I chose WMO. I find the term WMO may be misunderstood at times due to the fact that it can cover any source of waste petroleum oils such as mineral oils, hydraulic oils and other lube oils.

Currently, I work at a wind farm and we have 100 some turbines. Each turbine has a padmount transformer containing roughly 600 gallons of oil. When the oil becomes unserviceable due to arcing, gassing, etc, I acquire it for use as fuel. Just to avoid the tree-huger comment about pcb's, our oil was tested and is guaranteed to be less than 1ppm.

Why mention this? Mineral oil as it sits is probably the closest form of oil to diesel available. It runs pretty thin at even the lowest temperatures. It relatively enviro friendly (we had a spill in OK and the EPA said spread the extra oil in a field!--it was more than 100gals). You should be able to find it at a local transformer repair facility in totes (300 gallons).

My last bit here. My blend varies depending on my source of oil, as you might imagine. I cut mineral oil with 10% rug at most and thicker oils like 15-40 with 15-20% at most. I would be wary of going over the 20% rug mark. I choose to filter then fuge, but some just use one or the other. I also add in 2/3oz/gallon of diesel kleen. In my mind, this step helps mitigate the coking issues.

Wind farm oil used to lubricate the gearboxes of the elec motor generators? It is a motor but not an IC motor and the waste products in the oil is very different. Wind farm oil should not be considered as WMO. Wind farm oil is much cleaner than WMO.

I read your link of your filtration ventures. Have your solved the problem of smoke at startup?

The FNG · #20 02-28-2014, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Wind farm oil used to lubricate the gearboxes of the elec motor generators? It is a motor but not an IC motor and the waste products in the oil is very different. Wind farm oil should not be considered as WMO. Wind farm oil is much cleaner than WMO.

I read your link of your filtration ventures. Have your solved the problem of smoke at startup?

I don't use gear oil, it is way too thick. I do, however, use the hydraulic oil and transformer mineral oil. I consider it WMO in the broad sense and often I will combine oils depending on what I have.

The answer to the smoking problem is a little complicated and the answer is both yes and no. My solution was to use a similar method as the wvo/svo guys and do a double tank. Since my truck come stock with two tanks, I didn't have to modify my truck. I start and stop on diesel. It doesn't take long to purge. This solved some of my startup smoke issues. Currently, I believe my issues on startup smoke are due to bad injectors. I have an odd vibration at warm idle and I think that is what is causing it. I have no smoke on acceleration except black on heavy accel. I also don't have smoke at warm idle. Just at startup. It doesn't really bother me because the engine starts so easily.

eatont9999 · #21 02-28-2014, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The FNG

I don't use gear oil, it is way too thick. I do, however, use the hydraulic oil and transformer mineral oil. I consider it WMO in the broad sense and often I will combine oils depending on what I have.

The answer to the smoking problem is a little complicated and the answer is both yes and no. My solution was to use a similar method as the wvo/svo guys and do a double tank. Since my truck come stock with two tanks, I didn't have to modify my truck. I start and stop on diesel. It doesn't take long to purge. This solved some of my startup smoke issues. Currently, I believe my issues on startup smoke are due to bad injectors. I have an odd vibration at warm idle and I think that is what is causing it. I have no smoke on acceleration except black on heavy accel. I also don't have smoke at warm idle. Just at startup. It doesn't really bother me because the engine starts so easily.

I put new injectors in my F250 a few years ago and one of them was faulty. The idle was shaky and got worse in gear; especially reverse. The shake would go away at higher RPMs. I found the cylinder with the faulty injector by measuring the glow plug milivolts at idle. I had already put in a new set of ZD9s, so the plugs were all the same type.

The Ford generally smokes a little more on WMO than the MB. Not sure why. I even have the timing advanced a few degrees on the F250. When I say smoke, I mean a light haze; not a tire fire.