1984 TD Heater From Chevy Parts - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

moon161 · #16 03-05-2014, 06:42 PM

May be the o-ring connections. Bent/replaced lugs so they clamped joint properly. Reinstalled and idling now.

moon161 · #17 03-05-2014, 08:32 PM

No more steam. Take extra care w/ the o-ring connections at the aluminum tubes that go thru the firewall. Clean the mating surfaces. The core comes w/ 2 new clamp plates for the alum. tubes, change these out, b/c the old ones are probably slightly bent, concave towards the core. Bend the old one on the supply pipe b/c it won't come off. I used the old hex head cap screws instead of the new phillips head ones- got them good & tight.

Finally, assemble the core and pipes and install w/o the heater box, idle the car and get it hot. Open both sides of the heater control valve and rev the motor quick enough to flush the core and get both sides hot. Look for steam and leakage over entire core, especially the pipe connections.

Mark DiSilvestro · #18 03-05-2014, 08:47 PM

I'm thinking now that a bit of Ultra-Black RTV around the O-ring area might be a good idea.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Mark DiSilvestro · #19 03-06-2014, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moon161

Heating the garage is a bum deal actually. $5-10 of kerosene gets me a 40-50 degree garage that is still quite dark and cramped. I left a 1kW electric heater in the car w/ it outside. Warm enough inside, all the metal is nice to bare fingers, and the plastic is warm enough to be supple. Plenty of daylight to see where things go.

BTW, I pulled the dash to replace it but you need not to swap the heater box. I'll PM instructions.

According to what I saw in the FSM, only on cars without AC. Unfortunately my '84 TD has factory AC so the entire dash has to come out. Fun fun fun! Maybe I'll finally install my correct Euro speedometer while I'm at it.
At least mine doesn't have ACC or power-window wiring in the way

Happy Motoring, Mark

Mark DiSilvestro · #20 03-30-2014, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

Well, if not the USA, maybe at least somewhere other than China.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Well, I found out from moon161 that the aftermarket W123 eBay heater core is made in Italy. Mine should be arriving from Florida in a couple days.
It'll complement the Dutch radiator in my car.
I think I lost points for that when my car attended Starfest a few years ago.
At least no one will be able to judge my heater-core once it's installed. (unless it starts leaking!)

Happy Motoring, Mark

Mark DiSilvestro · #21 10-27-2014, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moon161

No more steam. Take extra care w/ the o-ring connections at the aluminum tubes that go thru the firewall. Clean the mating surfaces. The core comes w/ 2 new clamp plates for the alum. tubes, change these out, b/c the old ones are probably slightly bent, concave towards the core. Bend the old one on the supply pipe b/c it won't come off. I used the old hex head cap screws instead of the new phillips head ones- got them good & tight.

Finally, assemble the core and pipes and install w/o the heater box, idle the car and get it hot. Open both sides of the heater control valve and rev the motor quick enough to flush the core and get both sides hot. Look for steam and leakage over entire core, especially the pipe connections.

How has your Italian heater core held up since the install? Mine is still sitting on the front seat of my TD, and the glovebox & dash-cover are still sitting in the back seat. Unfortunately, about the time I started this job, I discovered the roof caved in on my old backyard 8'x12' storage-shed. So salvaging what I could, building a new 10'x20' shed and unplanned repairs on some rental property, has consumed most of my spare time. Hopefully, if my new shed gets finished in the next week, I'll be able to devote a few days to my dash-pull/heater job.

Happy Motoring, Mark

ROLLGUY · #22 10-28-2014, 12:20 AM

Do yourself a favor and pressure test the core before installing. This is common practice for all cores (heat and A/C) installed at my buddy's radiator shop. Best to take it to your local shop and have them do it if you don't have a way to put 15 lbs of pressure on it in a bath of water. Shops have all the fittings to plug and hook up the air supply for testing.....Rich