HELP!! 300D Timing chain replacement, chain ends not meeting!!
 

1985 300D with 368K miles

While replacing my timing chain via Diesel Giant's instructions, after I had the new chain clipped into the old we had the chain slip and jump 3 teeth off the can sprocket, we were able to gain 2 of the teeth back just by pulling up on it. Still one tooth short. No am out of pulling would get the last tooth back.

We thought being careful and going slow that we could recoup the slack .

After going all the way around we are now 2 teeth short of a full circuit.

Where did we lose another tooth??

Did we just screw ourselves??

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/atta...n-rails-za.jpg

Could I have lost them on 98a...? Is there any way that I could adjust the guide wheel?

Do you mean you are (edit: MISSING) two links of the chain?

Do you still have the master link?

I did not receive a master link, but I did not realize that until I had already busted the old chain. But I do have everything else.

I almost have enough slack to make up one of the teeth that's it's missing, but am just barely short.

Hope the pics make things clearer.

Trying to resize photos...

Good, as I can't access 'em.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2873/1...2f1822cd37.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3768/1...87b664465c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3696/1...1ee621e4e1.jpg



Try that. I think I got the pictures working....

Did you remove the tensioner "a"?

No, not entirely. But the spring has been removed. I was under the assumption that it would have been enough to get me the stretch it needed. Would I gain more space if I removed it entirely?

It's not enough to just remove the tensioner spring. The tensioner won't back up just because you pulled out the spring, and it must be reset with a new chain anyway. You'll probably find your slack once the tensioner is out.

If you really did slip off the cam sprocket at one point, then your valve timing may be off. If that is the case, then you've made a bit of extra work for yourself. Be very careful rotating the crank, slowly, once you have the chain reconnected. Turn it by hand, making at least four complete crank rotations. If the engine turns smoothly, then you've probably dodged the bullet, but stop immediately and do not proceed if you feel anything bind. Have you removed the injectors or glow plugs?

^ Makes sense to me.

That does appear to be missing two links.

Thanks for the info! After PM's question, that got me thinking and I ended up removing the tensioner before going to work. I did get the chains to match up where they need to be. With the stretch from the old chain it wasn't allowing the movement needed.

I was having trouble getting on the peachparts after all that and spent about 2 hours searching other sites for info on how the tensioner actually moves. If I could have only seen your reply I could have saved so much time.

I'll get everything locked down permanent like tomorrow afternoon and see how my valves are.

Thanks again guys!!

Glad to hear things worked out.

X2

I appreciate that you followed up to let us know what the actual problem was and how you resolved it.

On the Turbo charged Engines the Timing Chain Tensioner Piston has a ratcheting device that only allows the Piston to move in one direction.

It has a round cross section Spring in the shape of a Piston Ring that expands into grooves in the Timing Chain Tensioner Housing. The shap of the Grooves in the Housing keeps the Tensioner Piston from being pushed Backwards.

To reset the Piston you need to remove the Timing Chain Tensioner and pull out the Piston in the direction of normal travel and re-insert it from the Spring end of the Timing Chan Tensioner.

There should be a DIY on that:
DIY Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles