Sorry to start a new thread, but the previous thread about the 80 300 TD wagon w/o leveling system went dormant.

The engine was transplanted in my wagon, and the only numbers I could find were 617 016 0301 on the front of the head, and R 617 016 09 05 under the valve cover. Wondering if anyone can tell what year or model it came from based on those numbers, or could tell me where else to look for more numbers.

BTW, I finally did adjust the valves, only a few were tight, and the tick tick tick noise did not change. It seems proportional to RPM, and doesn't change much with load or other factors. seems loudest from the injector pipes, but cracking injector lines on @ a time did not affect the noise.

ed

you have a OM617....there are only two.....non turbo or turbo....that it....

Post a video of the tick tick tick and maybe we can help identify it....chances out it is the injectors...but hard to say with out a video..

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OM617 5 cylinder engine. Make sure it isn't the Vacuum pump. Get a mechanics stethoscope and listen to the pump and figure out what this noise is. Or a long screwdriver will do, either one.

There's also the matter of whether it has the head that accepts an SLS pump or not.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

I doubt you'll be able to narrow it down to a specific donor model past just the spread of cars that were fitted with OM617s.

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did not change the sound, check for an exhaust manifold leak. This is a common issue with engine transplants.

Sounds are hard to pin-point. A sheet-metal sound I had that varied with rpm (both in amplitude and frequency) turned out to be the tips of the fan blades on the alternator hitting the bracket. Try holding a big rubber hose to one ear as you move the end around. Doesn't usually work for me, but I still try. Same with the stethoscope. Good luck.

I blew the big bux at Harbor Freight and bought a stethoscope - I think it was under $10.00. Good investment. I've used it many times to pinpoint noises. Watch out on the way to sensing whatever you want to check. If you accidently touch - say - the fan belt, it'll put yer ears out! I once hit the alternator fan blades - PAINFUL!

Besides, you really look like you know what you're doing when friends and/or relatives come over for a diagnosis.

Dan

If you have a turbo, the engine number should read "617.95...". If a non-turbo, "617.91...". DieselGiant has an excellent guide on finding the engine number:

http://dieselgiant.com/mercedes_engine_and_transmission.htm

Just be aware that his prices are absolutely through the roof .

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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

They are on sale at Harbour Freight for $2.99, with the 25% coupon and a free scissor, it was practically free!

Hoping it is more accurate than the washing machine hose, & i'll poke around tomorrow, & post results.

ed

Any cheaper and they would pay you to take it! I don't use mine a lot but when I do it's JUST the right thing.

Dan

The stethoscope was way more sensitive than the washing machine hose, but still inconclusive. Very loud from the injector tubes, and faint anywhere else. Not from any of the pumps or pullies. Could hear it faintly from the lower block above the oil pan, maybe more than elsewhere on the engine. If it's a rod, wouldn't the oil pressure sink below 1.5 atmospheres oat idle? Seems to stay around 2 and pegs the indicator above 5 or 10 M.P.H.

Have to make a 1500 mile trip with it in a month to where I have a parts unit.

Not sure about loading a video, had no luck loading still photos even.

Anyone reliable and experienced with old W123's in the West Palm area that could lend it an ear?

Thanx,

ed

Had a few professional Mercedes mechanics lend an ear, and they agreed that the noise is internal, probably a rod bearing, possibly cyl. # 2.

One of them said Lucas oil additive might help prolong the life of that bearing, & that it might last a couple of years before self destructing. I'm looking at a 1500 mile trip to where I have a parts unit.

Wondering if a moderately clumsy amateur mechanic could diagnose those bearings by taking the lower oil pan off , and possibly replace #'s 1 and/or 2 bearings from under the oil pan.

Thanx again, all suggestions or links to procedures on what to do will be appreciated.

ed

It may be possible to do as you suggest. However, it's probably not a good idea. When a rod bearing goes, a lot of the time there is some damage to the crank journal and a replacement bearing won't last long without re-machining the crank. Not to mention, if one rod bearing has gone, the others probably aren't far behind. I might do the repair you suggest if I was in a military or racing situation in which the engine needed to be back up and running in less time than was available to do a more thorough repair, but in a normal passenger car situation I wouldn't.

I would have serious reservations about taking a 1500 mile drive with a suspected bad rod bearing. Running around town until the motor grenades is another story. The best options right now are a good used engine, or pull the one you have and do a full teardown, inspection, and rebuild.

All of what I just said is predicated on the actual problem being a failing rod bearing. You might be lucky and it might just be an exhaust leak at the manifold. Triple check this possibility before proceeding. Another silly question: Does the sound happen at crankshaft speed (about 12 times per second at idle), valvetrain speed (about 6 times per second at idle), or some other speed? A bad rod bearing will make its noise at crankshaft speed.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

On the left hand side of the engine (right hand side when standing in front of it looking at it) just in front of the injector pump you'll probably find the engine serial number. It will start with 617.XXX => XXX gives you the type of 617 you have.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!