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  #1  
Old 03-07-2014, 03:44 PM
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1999 E300 turbodiesel

One time recently my son was driving our 210 turbodiesel sedan and the trans would not upshift.
It stayed in 3rd and would not upshift. He pulled over and turned the car off then restarted and all was fine. My son said it hasn't happened again. I test drove the car this morning and the trans shifted perfectly. ( BTW, I had forgotten how beautifully that cars drives).
The car has 138K miles and has been trouble free except for the sad onset of rust spots in the usual places. I want to keep it forever.
Questions:
1. Does the no upshift symptom point to any specific problem in the trans ? 2. Is there a way I can check the trans fluid level and color? There seems to be no dipstick.
3. Can I change the trans fluid myself or is it a dealer only job? My MB dealer quoted 450 bucks to change the fluid/filter. Last time it was changed was at about 85K miles.
Any insight would be appreciated.
thanks
jz

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  #2  
Old 03-07-2014, 04:11 PM
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1) Are you sure it wasn't stuck in 2nd (the dreaded limp home mode)?
(Was the Check Engine light and Check Engine Electronics shown in the display?)
Get an OBDII reader or go to the Auto Parts store and get them to pull codes.

2) As you noticed there is no transmission dipstick, only a cap with a seal. There is a dipstick tool available that can be used to check the fluid level.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/3742/MBZ_3742_TOLTOL_pg11.htm# scroll down to the bottom of the page

3) Pelican Technical Article: Mercedes Benz - Automatic Transmission Fluid Change
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both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #3  
Old 03-07-2014, 04:36 PM
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Try the shift adaptation procedure.

PDF
https://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.w203.pl/download.php%3Fid%3D1191%26sid%3De4b3be82f61f8942db48ed7506758c79&sa=U&ei=vzoaU8PfMJXZoATlpICgDg&ved=0CE4QFjAI&sig2=RHKzEX7Nq_c3zdcwt95Siw&usg=AFQjCNHXbN8jYe2p3yKR59w65dJREwTipg
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  #4  
Old 03-07-2014, 05:19 PM
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Gentlemen, thanks for the quick and expert replies.
Yes it could have been 2nd gear and limp mode. Which is probably good if not recurring. Prior to the problem the car was garaged for about a month because of the snow storms in NJ and the cars poor handling on ice and snow and the problem happened on it's maiden voyage and not returned again after repeated drives. I was not in the car when the problem occured so it could have been a limp mode was triggered somehow.
No CE lights came on, but I will have the codes read.
Yikes, the trans fluid change looks complicated and above my capabilities.
I could not even understand that shift adaptation procedure.
The article says 80,000 miles between fluid changes. It's been only about 50K miles since last one so I will hold off for a few thousand more miles.
Thank you guys for the info.
I love this active forum and I love MB's. I have owner 14 of them,with 7 being diesels. My 07 ML CDI will soon turn 200K miles and has been the best diesel overall of the bunch.
thanks again.
jz
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  #5  
Old 03-07-2014, 05:25 PM
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Forgot to ask about the 33 buck dip stick-
Can I leave it in place in lieu of the orig cap?
In the pix it appears to be very long.
Am I correct in presuming that the trans fluid id added via that dip stick tube?
jz
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  #6  
Old 03-07-2014, 05:31 PM
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I would recommended you change the ATF every 50k miles or so....that seems to be the consensus. Not sure if you can drain the torque converter on your 99....I can on my 98.

Like you, I shied away from changing the ATF and filter myself, even though I do it on my other cars. If you shop around, you should be able to do a lot better than 450, especially if you find a place that lets you provide your own fluid. While you're in there, you might consider replacing the plug adapter, which is prone to leaking.
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  #7  
Old 03-07-2014, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zakkkk View Post
Forgot to ask about the 33 buck dip stick-
Can I leave it in place in lieu of the orig cap?
In the pix it appears to be very long.
Am I correct in presuming that the trans fluid id added via that dip stick tube?
jz
No....it's a measuring tool, not a dipstick that is left in place. And if you look on Ebay, you can do better than $33....I got mine for $15.99 with free shipping.

You can add fluid via the dipstick tube....that's one way to do it.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
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  #8  
Old 03-07-2014, 07:21 PM
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The trans fluid is a very straightforward job. 1) get the dip stick tool. 2) get 8 liters specified fluid (the correct fluid is important), pan gasket and a filter. 3) drop pan and drain. 4) Drain TC (some late 99's don't have a TC drain plug). 5) refill with same amount of fluid as drained, start and shift to D & R a few times. Make sure your fluid is on the bottom of the measuring tool. 6) Gently go for a 10 mile drive to get fluid to 80C operating temp (preferably scan pan with an IR thermo). 7) Top off to top of 80C mark on the dip stick. 8) Install NEW lock pin (don't try to reuse the old one, it will vibrate off and allow contaminations in).

The trans shift reset procedure provided above is for a 606.912 rather than 606.962. The 722.6 trans were evolving rapidly during this time. The reset was much easier IIRC. Get in, close driver door, key to position 2, depress and hold throttle AND kickdown button for 20 secs. Release. Key to Pos 0. Don't open door or remove key for 2 mins.
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  #9  
Old 03-07-2014, 09:14 PM
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My 99 has the drain plug on the torque converter.

Really the job is a simple Saturday afternoon job, be certain to do the transmission plug at the same time as they commonly fail.
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  #10  
Old 03-08-2014, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zakkkk View Post
One time recently my son was driving our 210 turbodiesel sedan and the trans would not upshift.
It stayed in 3rd and would not upshift. He pulled over and turned the car off then restarted and all was fine. My son said it hasn't happened again. I test drove the car this morning and the trans shifted perfectly. ( BTW, I had forgotten how beautifully that cars drives).
The car has 138K miles and has been trouble free except for the sad onset of rust spots in the usual places. I want to keep it forever.
Questions:
1. Does the no upshift symptom point to any specific problem in the trans ? 2. Is there a way I can check the trans fluid level and color? There seems to be no dipstick.
3. Can I change the trans fluid myself or is it a dealer only job? My MB dealer quoted 450 bucks to change the fluid/filter. Last time it was changed was at about 85K miles.
Any insight would be appreciated.
thanks
jz
Just a hunch here, but from my experience, the car may have been driven in an erratic throttle manner (hot-rodding it) when it stuck in 3rd. The car's transmission does not reset instantly after being confused in the manner I described and witnessed on one occasion - that is by locking-up in one gear or another, and not shifting out of it.
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  #11  
Old 03-08-2014, 12:18 PM
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As others have said, the transmission service isn't that hard. Yours is even better because it will have the torque converter drain plug, so you can drain all of the old fluid out easily. The drain plug for the torque converter disappeared in Sept. of 1999 I believe, so all of the '99 models ought to have it. Yours may not have the pan magnet, so you should add that if it hasn't already been added. The magnets appeared in about 2001. Cost is only about five bucks for the magnet.
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  #12  
Old 03-10-2014, 01:48 PM
dtf dtf is offline
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Hi Zakkk - my '99 E300Turbo does the same thing on shifting. It has 220,000miles, tons and tons of rust too. I've had the dreaded Spring Perch Failure as well on this car. The shifting problem is just as you describe - no up shift or sometimes it will upshift late and BANG into gear. After that all is well for a few weeks and it happens again. Maybe it is a vacuum problem? dunno...I'
ll drive it until it needs more attention.
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  #13  
Old 03-10-2014, 02:43 PM
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The 722.6 is all electronic control, no vacuum involved.

I would get to a MB dealer or Indy and have them connect diagnostics and pull codes.
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #14  
Old 03-10-2014, 04:11 PM
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Posts: 169
Yes, I plan to get codes pulled at next oil change in 2 weeks.
Meanwhile car is driving and shifting perfectly.
Thank you guys for all the input and comments.
Much appreciated.
jz
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  #15  
Old 03-10-2014, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
No....it's a measuring tool, not a dipstick that is left in place. And if you look on Ebay, you can do better than $33....I got mine for $15.99 with free shipping.

You can add fluid via the dipstick tube....that's one way to do it.
my dipstick cost me approximately 2 dollars or less.

I use plastic pipe from home depot.

I do have the stick though, but the pipe is usually used as it is stashed in the car.

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