Which brand engine mount? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

efm-7 · #16 04-04-2014, 03:20 PM

I made this video a while back, Is the deep resonant vibration at around 700-800 rpm attributed to engine mounts? or just the way it is?

http://youtu.be/Q2GgPNERNz8

uberwasser · #17 04-04-2014, 03:25 PM

I suggest that the answer is, probably. Engine mount failure is usually accompanied by harsh vibration at and around idle. Above that it tends to smooth out.

efm-7 · #18 04-04-2014, 03:31 PM

crap, I feel like I'm never out of the water with this car

JamesDean · #19 04-04-2014, 04:27 PM

You had originally asked what brand, did you replace them or just trying to see if they are bad?

efm-7 · #20 04-04-2014, 04:58 PM

well I had the hunch that they need to be replaced soon so I'll be ordering the ones for the 617 as suggested earlier in this thread. my more recent question is regarding the urgency... I don't wanna lose my oil cooler lines the first day I drive this

JamesDean · #21 04-04-2014, 06:32 PM

I don't know if this will help or not but here is a thread on when I did my gold 300SD's mounts:

Is this bad? [617 Motor Mounts/Leak]

Here is the other green 300SD's mounts:
W126 300SD Motor Mounts - Imgur

uberwasser · #22 04-04-2014, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by efm-7

well I had the hunch that they need to be replaced soon so I'll be ordering the ones for the 617 as suggested earlier in this thread. my more recent question is regarding the urgency... I don't wanna lose my oil cooler lines the first day I drive this

Inspect the upper line visually. See how far the belt is from touching it.

If the mount is failing due to age it will fail slowly. However if it's failing due to a leak or something similar it might be more rapid.

My driver's mount once collapsed rapidly due to a B99 leak on it. It basically turned to goop.

I got lucky and the 8mm allen bolt landed on and rested against the chassis. If it hadn't the engine would have dropped much further and the belt would have cut the line. I didn't realize that until I got underneath to change it after living with the vibration for about a month...whew!

Diesel911 · #23 04-04-2014, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I also have have all 3 URO Mounts on My Car for a long time. However, I fixed all of the things that cause the Engine to shake during the time the Mounts were replaced.
I already have a set of Lemfoerders for when the time comes to change them.
The Lemforeder Transmission mount is harder to find and to get a good price on.

The problem with just replacing the cheap Mounts every so often is that every so often the Power Steering Belt cuts through a Oil Cooler Hose when a Mount collaspes.

I added this 4/4/2014
I replaced My Mounts last week.
ÜRO 617.952 Motor Mounts lasted 6 Years

crazy4diesel · #24 04-04-2014, 09:02 PM

People fill them with urethane to prevent collapse, obviously this would also transfer more noise and vibration to the cabin. What if you were to only fill them half way? So, if they collapse, then the movement is reduced, perhaps saving an oil cooler line? Or fill them with silicone? The collapse would be less likely (at least too far) and it'd be a softer materiel that would better dampen noise and vibration transfer?

cjbrown · #25 04-04-2014, 09:50 PM

What's the scoop on the Karlyn ones? I put a set on four years ago and they're fine - just 5K miles though. I think the center support was Meyle and the drive shaft Uro and Trans mount MTC.

uberwasser · #26 04-04-2014, 09:57 PM

Karlyn isn't great. But I had a pair on my '79 that lasted at least a year - one then melted due to aforementioned B99 leak so I replaced both. The passenger side mount was still good.

That's when I did more research and learned you can use turbo mounts on non turbo cars, so I now have Phoenix mounts on the '79.

efm-7 · #27 04-17-2014, 11:18 AM

Does the 8mm hex socket HAVE to be the long one? I have a regular length 8mm 1/2" drive socket. I can only buy the long ones in sets here (pricey)

uberwasser · #28 04-17-2014, 11:33 AM

There's a bit of distance between the opening that allows access to the bolt and the head of said bolt. But I don't think my 8mm allen socket is anything special, maybe 3" long, and it is longer than I've ever needed for motor mounts. A 1/2" drive extension that gives you more clearance to swing the wrench helps.

There are some pictures in my guide of the tools used for comparison's sake:

Mercedes W123 Motor Mount Replacement - iFixit

I found that particular allen socket at my local used tool store for $8 or so.