Fuel Tubing Between Injectors - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Gregory · #1 03-20-2014, 05:08 PM

I needed new fuel overflow tubing to put between the injectors. I went to NAPA, Carquest, etc, none had any in stock. I don't have a MB dealership nearby.

I went to the local VW dealer and they have the exact same tubing for Volkswagons. Their part number for the Hose is: 059130329-1.

Sweet! I can fix the problem without waiting 3 or 4 days for delivery.

Diesel911 · #2 03-20-2014, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregory

I needed new fuel overflow tubing to put between the injectors. I went to NAPA, Carquest, etc, none had any in stock. I don't have a MB dealership nearby.

I went to the local VW dealer and they have the exact same tubing for Volkswagons. Their part number for the Hose is: 059130329-1.

Sweet! I can fix the problem without waiting 3 or 4 days for delivery.

The VW Hose for the 1980S VW Rabbits is the same. However, there is some other alternatives.
Where to buy fuel return hose VW RAbbit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=238219&highlight=Rabbit
The Thread with the part numbers
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=210922&highlight=return+line+part+number

jay_bob · #3 03-21-2014, 07:19 AM

Also you can use as a temporary substitute the fuel hose for weed wackers. It is available at the big box home center.

It will last about a year or two so it is not a permanent repair. But it will get you by until you can get the proper hose.

Gregory · #4 03-21-2014, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay_bob

Also you can use as a temporary substitute the fuel hose for weed wackers. It is available at the big box home center.

It will last about a year or two so it is not a permanent repair. But it will get you by until you can get the proper hose.

I did exactly that. I bought 1/8 x 1/4 weedwacker fuel line. The first time I drove the car, it was fine. The second time, the line between the fuel filter and the #1 injector heated up, got soft, and popped off the injector.

When I got to the post office, the engine compartment was soaked with fuel, so much had jetted out that it was on the hood and windshield as well.

That is when I went to the VW dealership and found the exact replacement MB fuel line.

Don't use weedwacker fuel line, you are just asking for a huge mess to clean up.

Gregory · #5 03-21-2014, 08:06 AM

As a general question, if the 1st injector is wet with fuel from the overflow lines weeping or leaking, does that indicate that the primary fuel filter is restricted and should be changed?

Diesel911 · #6 03-21-2014, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregory

As a general question, if the 1st injector is wet with fuel from the overflow lines weeping or leaking, does that indicate that the primary fuel filter is restricted and should be changed?

No. That is the Fuel that is going to return to the Fuel Tank.

tangofox007 · #7 03-21-2014, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregory

As a general question, if the 1st injector is wet with fuel from the overflow lines weeping or leaking, does that indicate that the primary fuel filter is restricted and should be changed?

A good indicator of restricted fuel filters is poor response to pressure application to the narrow pedal.

eatont9999 · #8 03-21-2014, 12:12 PM

I try to keep a good stock of hoses, gaskets, filters, fuses, lights, etc on hand so I don't have to wait for shipping. I suggest you look into doing the same, Gregory. It really has saved my bacon more than a few times.

Zacharias · #9 03-21-2014, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregory

As a general question, if the 1st injector is wet with fuel from the overflow lines weeping or leaking, does that indicate that the primary fuel filter is restricted and should be changed?

That line(s) where you see the weeping need(s) to be replaced.

There is no set rule to how long these lines last. However, use of some fuel additives, especially overenthusiastic use, seems to lead to premature failure. Planning to replace them every second or third year: not a bad plan.

GENTLY GENTLY is the rule when removing the old lines and installing new.

To remove, use a utility knife to make slight slit at the base of each end of the line, then gently work it off the return-flow fittings on the injector. There are rasps (wrong word) on there to keep the lines in place, and as the injectors age they can break off if you yank the lines off. Once that happens the line will not stay sealed or in place for long at all.

To install, gently work the line down onto the fitting. If your fingers fit, all the better, if you use longnose pliers then similar observation applies, don't squeeze the fitting itself.

toomany MBZ · #10 03-21-2014, 01:15 PM

Be very careful with a utility knife on the injector jumper lines.

If you nick the nipple, new injector time.

I've had success pulling/prying off the old line.

jay_bob · #11 03-21-2014, 02:20 PM

I guess the tubing quality is going down at the home center then. The tubing went a year on my 300TD before it started getting stiff and brittle.

+1 on gentle removal. Nicking the barbs with a knife blade will definitely cause leaking. If you must cut it off to remove it, score it only and don't go all the way through with the blade.

funola · #12 03-21-2014, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zacharias

That line(s) ..............................................There are rasps (wrong word) on there to keep the lines in place, and as the injectors age they can break off if you yank the lines off. Once that happens the line will not stay sealed or in place for long at all.

..........

The word you are looking for is barbs. Those barbs have the same design as push lock hose fittings. I always just yank them off with a quick pull using pliers, never had a barb break off. Has that happened to you? Must not be very common. A lot of times, due to the age of the dried up hose, it breaks and a piece remains on the barb. I use long nose pliers and pinch the side of the hose, breaking the braid and relaxing the grip of the hose and it comes off easily without nicking the barb.

Dan Stokes · #13 03-21-2014, 05:24 PM

1/8" fuel line (found at almost any auto parts store) is VERY close - just slightly small (I think it's 3.2mm IIRC). Cheap and easily obtained. Hose is hose as long as it's fuel safe - don't overthink this. The stuff from Germany is not somehow inherently superior, just more expensive. The weedwhacker tubing is a different composition (I'd guess vinyl) and it doesn't last all that well on weedwackers!

If you want to keep a stock appearance I'd order a bunch from Pelican.

I agree that you need to be careful with the knife when removing the old stuff. I scored mine a few places around the radius of the line and pulled it off. This weakens it and lets it expand over the barbs.

Dan

charmalu · #14 03-21-2014, 05:53 PM

A nicked damaged leaky Nipple, then becomes # 4 or 5 (616/617). break off the Nipple, JB Weld the hole or Weld the hole shut.

Charlie

Diesel911 · #15 03-21-2014, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatont9999

I try to keep a good stock of hoses, gaskets, filters, fuses, lights, etc on hand so I don't have to wait for shipping. I suggest you look into doing the same, Gregory. It really has saved my bacon more than a few times.

This is especially true of the Fuel Return Lines. If not replaced soon you the cost of the Fuel leaked out can easly pay for a length of Hose.