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  #16  
Old 03-23-2014, 11:50 PM
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Also a slow Shutoff can be the Vacuum Shutoff Valve on the Fuel Injection Pump or the Vacuum Valve that is on the Steering Colum or leaks in the little Rubber Connectors.

This is why it is important to have a Hand Held Vacuum Tester to help you deterging where the actual problem is.
If you don't what to use a Hand Held Vacuum Tester the minimum you need is one of those combination Vacuum/Fuel Pump Gauges sold at Auto Part Store or barrowed from someone.
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  #17  
Old 03-24-2014, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Not sure why nobody suggested simply testing if the vacuum pump produces a proper vacuum. If so, it is doing its job and doesn't require replacement. No need to remove the pump (3 hr job if you do it right and clean well). Buy a vacuum gage. I have 4 at home - stand-alone gage (common years ago to test carburetor cars), a "vacuum boost gage" (Harbor Freight), gage on my hand vacuum pump (Harbor Freight), and gage from my plastic Mighty-Mite pump that failed. Disconnect the metal hose at the far end from the vacuum pump, so nothing else in the car is attached, and connect the gage to it. If like me, you have a "hose box" with various sizes, which makes that easy.
Bill, thank you so very much! I was hoping there was a more valid test procedure, but since no one suggested one, figured there wasn't any. I forgot I bought a gauge for the Squareback years ago and a vacuum system tester! I saw the latter when I was putting the tools in the new box and forot that I even bought it... Guess I know what I am doing tomorrow morning!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
If you read 15" Hg vacuum or greater, the pump is fine. If not, sometimes just the outlet check valve is bad. That part is simple to unscrew and replace but costs $60+ even used.
I rather pay $100 and not have to spend a lot of time and not having the Mercedes to drive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
You should finish the episodes about Tram and Ember. We kind of lost the storyline.
What do you mean? Tram is a member on here and most folks know Ember is my Service Dog who the wagen is her's (spay/neuter custom plate even states it!). I don't think I even mentioned the the later?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
If the Vehicle you are speaking of is the 85 300D it came from Mercedes with the later type of Vacuum Pump that has the Metal Ball Bearing Cage and a Washer on each side that prevents the Balls and Cage from falling out.
You really should get something to check the actually Vacuum.

Since you have not said you are having a hard time braking when you step on the Brake that indicates you have not had a total Vacuum Pump Failure.

The 2 times I had a slow shutoff was once when I broke off one of the Plastic Nipples on the Main Vacuum Line and then next time was when the Check Valve on the Vacuum Pump (the Main Vacuum line screws on to it and it just looks like a fitting; if you remove the Vacuum Line and unscrew that fitting look inside and see if all of the parts are there and in good condition and spray it out with WD-40; don't use Brake Cleaner as it can soften the Plastic).

Also there is no reason why you cannot have a leak in your Door Lock or part of the Vacuum System that is causing the leak.

This is one of the reasons it is best carefully disconnect the Vacuum where it comes off of the Main Line and plug those off an take a Vacuum reading whit a Vacuum Gauge. If the Vacuum is low then it is the Vacuum Pump itself or that Check Valve I spoke of.
The first pic shows the location of the Check Valve.

The next pic shows a check valve that is no good because it came apart. Some times when it is no good there is no parts at all inside of the Check Valve as the parts fall into a cavity inside of the Vacuum Pump.
Thank you so very much!

What else would it be? There is not a single other W123/W126 located in Phoenix on this forum (only seen a few others in the valley, with more in the yards ). I have only seen two other wagens for sale and didn't get on it soon enough (both under a grand).

Good to know the '85 model came with the better bearings! Does that mean I can risk it more? Don't plan to drive as know once the balls go, all else goes shortly afterward. I can't cound how many times fear has crept in that the pump would go in the middle of the desert! I make a lot of trips through it going and coming back from Comufornia.

It has always had what I consider hard braking, but don't know if normal or not, as never had another to compare to. I also have been really tired, and as I said, not the most aware and clear headed. Thought I make up for it tonight, but can't get to sleep and don't want to take a Zzzquil (don't have any Trasidone left).

I will first get a reading. Once that is done, will then check the valves?
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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Current project and hopefully by mid May daily driver.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Waiting on logistics to get to Texas.
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  #18  
Old 03-24-2014, 03:54 AM
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I am so frustrated with the shut off on mine the last couple days i'm thinking about adding a switch to an electric controlled vacuum switch right off the vacuum pump.
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  #19  
Old 03-25-2014, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yvairguy View Post
I am so frustrated with the shut off on mine the last couple days i'm thinking about adding a switch to an electric controlled vacuum switch right off the vacuum pump.
A shop replaced the vac pump on a friends 240D to solve a "no-shut-off" problem. The problem turned out to be a leak in the climate pods.

1st measure vacuum on one of the branches coming off the main vac line. These systems mimic what a gas vehicle puts out so look for 15-18 inches of vacuum. Anything less plug the ports going yo the climate & door locks. Disconnect & plug the end going to the brake booster. Vac means the pump is good. No vac means check your work, make sure all leaks are plugged. If so, bad vac pump.

Put a hand held vac pump on the line from the shut off valve. If the car stops your shut off is working.

You can pull a vacuum on every line coming off the main line. All should hold vacuum. If not, just hunt the leak down. There are vacuum diagrams around that make the tracing easy. All of these cars have similar systems.

Almost all of the vacuum pods can be accessed with the dash installed.
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  #20  
Old 03-26-2014, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
A shop replaced the vac pump on a friends 240D to solve a "no-shut-off" problem. The problem turned out to be a leak in the climate pods.

1st measure vacuum on one of the branches coming off the main vac line. These systems mimic what a gas vehicle puts out so look for 15-18 inches of vacuum. Anything less plug the ports going yo the climate & door locks. Disconnect & plug the end going to the brake booster. Vac means the pump is good. No vac means check your work, make sure all leaks are plugged. If so, bad vac pump.

Put a hand held vac pump on the line from the shut off valve. If the car stops your shut off is working.

You can pull a vacuum on every line coming off the main line. All should hold vacuum. If not, just hunt the leak down. There are vacuum diagrams around that make the tracing easy. All of these cars have similar systems.

Almost all of the vacuum pods can be accessed with the dash installed.
Junkman, thank you so very much for the reply!

Interesting though you didn't reply, or seems, even read the current thread. But, will go with your judgment and see if I get replies using this thread.

--
So, not only do I have a leak, but leaks:
The line with the yellow check valve and hear it on the passenger's side of the firewall

A partial leak in the V.C.V. (I.I.R.C. the name of the device on the injection pump for the automatic transmission)

The worst is the black with red strip going to a device on the firewall. One line leads to the blue saucer.


Further, I have engine oil in the lines which I used to not have.

Vacuum pump is easily reaching 20p.s.i. and then tops out at 23p.s.i!

So, now what?

--

Junkman, are you saying anything over 15p.s.i. is an issue?

I also have yet to find a diagram for a California 1985 model after spending many hours. What I need is actual pictures?
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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Current project and hopefully by mid May daily driver.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Waiting on logistics to get to Texas.
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  #21  
Old 03-26-2014, 01:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
A shop replaced the vac pump on a friends 240D to solve a "no-shut-off" problem. The problem turned out to be a leak in the climate pods.

1st measure vacuum on one of the branches coming off the main vac line. These systems mimic what a gas vehicle puts out so look for 15-18 inches of vacuum. Anything less plug the ports going yo the climate & door locks. Disconnect & plug the end going to the brake booster. Vac means the pump is good. No vac means check your work, make sure all leaks are plugged. If so, bad vac pump.

Put a hand held vac pump on the line from the shut off valve. If the car stops your shut off is working.

You can pull a vacuum on every line coming off the main line. All should hold vacuum. If not, just hunt the leak down. There are vacuum diagrams around that make the tracing easy. All of these cars have similar systems.

Almost all of the vacuum pods can be accessed with the dash installed.
actually figured it out today, the right front door decided to not lock today, it was locking up until today so it must have been losing it little by little. it was running on i locked the doors and it shut off but i noticed the right door stayed up. got in started it up and only pushed down that one door lock, turned it off and it shut off..... so i guess it will be time to tear into that door this weekend, guess i should order some plastic door panel fasteners and plan on lubing everything when i am in there.
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  #22  
Old 03-26-2014, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by yvairguy View Post
actually figured it out today, the right front door decided to not lock today, it was locking up until today so it must have been losing it little by little. it was running on i locked the doors and it shut off but i noticed the right door stayed up. got in started it up and only pushed down that one door lock, turned it off and it shut off..... so i guess it will be time to tear into that door this weekend, guess i should order some plastic door panel fasteners and plan on lubing everything when i am in there.
Please do not hijack this thread! No one was answering to you! I started it and you can start your own! I am sick of not getting help because my threads get hijacked! All I want is my Mercedes back on the road and help keeping it there!

Also, learn how to actually write in a proper manner!
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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Current project and hopefully by mid May daily driver.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Waiting on logistics to get to Texas.
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  #23  
Old 03-26-2014, 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Adriel View Post
Please do not hijack this thread! No one was answering to you! I started it and you can start your own! I am sick of not getting help because my threads get hijacked! All I want is my Mercedes back on the road and help keeping it there!

Also, learn how to actually write in a proper manner!
Actually i had posted a similar frustration to yours and what i had thought about doing to fix it. I was thinking about adding an electric vacuum valve on the firewall switched from inside. My thought was to use one of the electrically controlled vacuum switches from the EGR stuff that was removed from the car. Junkman replied to my post, so i responded to him that i figured out my problem.

So how is it that you want me to "write in a proper manner!"
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  #24  
Old 03-26-2014, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by yvairguy View Post
Actually i had posted a similar frustration to yours and what i had thought about doing to fix it. I was thinking about adding an electric vacuum valve on the firewall switched from inside. My thought was to use one of the electrically controlled vacuum switches from the EGR stuff that was removed from the car. Junkman replied to my post, so i responded to him that i figured out my problem.

So how is it that you want me to "write in a proper manner!"
You do not want to switch the pump, as you need vacuum for your brakes. I see nothing wrong with driving accessories off the engine unless you are racing. I bought a vehicle that could run without electrics and the last thing I would want to do is add an electric pump which my safety relied on!
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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Current project and hopefully by mid May daily driver.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Waiting on logistics to get to Texas.

Last edited by Adriel; 03-26-2014 at 05:08 PM.
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  #25  
Old 03-26-2014, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adriel View Post
You do not want to switch the pump, as you need vacuum for your brakes. I see nothing wrong with driving accessories off the engine unless you are racing. I bought a vehicle that could run without electrics and the last thing I would want to do is add an electric pump which my safety relied on!
The problem is that if the drive end of the Vacuum Pump comes apart pieces often fall into the Timing Chain/Gears the effect that sometimes Engine Valves and Pistons colloid.

Having an Electric Vacuum Pump would get rid of My 30 year old time bomb of a Vacuum Pump.
My question What in particular causes vacuum pump failure?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/204187-what-particular-causes-vacuum-pump-failure.html

Having an Electric Vacuum Pump also prevents Engine Intermediate Shaft Bushing Wear from causing a Vacuum Pump Failure.
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