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Vacuum Pump Failure?
Per this: 603 vacuum pump failure (How to Diagnose?) I believe I have a vacuum pump that has basically failed.
Last night when I got home I noticed the engine was slowly shutting off rather than being immediate. During the drive I passed a concrete wall and for a bit heard a new noise but thought from another auto as wasn't present at startup. This was after the vacuum locks suddenly would ever so slightly drain and has now gotten where they no longer work. Made me nervous to leave my wagen unlocked at A.S.U. all day, but don't see anything missing. The metallic tapping noise from up front was really bad but thought I was being paranoid. I did check the vacuum system and find no missing connections or leaks. Thus how I found the thread. Any other thoughts or ideas? The frustrating thing is when I purchased the Mercedes, Tram was unable to send the spares, including a vacuum pump. I am still waiting as hasn't been physically able. Thinking I might as well go to the yards and see if I can find an updated pump. If not, will just get what I can and purchase the bearings separate? By the way, I am really warn out and tired due to lack of sleep, so I am not sure what I am experiencing and thinking isn't the best. Thank you all in advance for any help!
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
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Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW |
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What concerns me is I don't know when the revised pumps came out. This pump has not been touched for over 10 years. Further, I have a new noise and odd vacuum behavior. I really don't want it ignore it and have a major disaster. However, I just wanted to prove I was wrong. You gave me a test, so will see if I can get results. I will look later and see if I can find these bearings.
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
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Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW |
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Got both the front and back yards of this home taken care of, which is quite a feet due to the size and evolvement. So now with that off my back can hopefully get to the Mercedes very soon. Is $150 with a 90 day warranty a good price? Supposedly the engine only has 1,000 miles. I am thinking it might be due to time saved and better health from reduced stress.
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
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I installed a new pump in my 190DT (602) today. I didn't have a problem, but high mileage and the chance purchase of a new pump at a very reasonable price made my mind up to do it. I did a photo writeup on the other list that might be worth your while: Vacuum pump - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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Well my issue is I am trying to save money incase when Grandmother dies I need to support myself (only has 3 months). However, you do have an interesting point in that if I went with used or rebuilt, I might have issues where I am even in a worse bind. I looked, and a new pump is $400. Used is $150 and then still might need new bearings at $100. Rebuilt is $300. I will give my supplier a letter and see what the cost is through him.
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
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New bearings didn't cost me that much - but then I didn't buy the spares kit.
More than you are likely to ever want to know about OM61X piston vacuum pumps
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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A few years ago, I had the vacuum pump fail on my '84 Euro 300TD at the end of a 200-mile trip to Virginia Beach. Fortunately, the bearing balls managed to find their way to the oil-pan without wrecking the engine. I found a working used pump at the local Pick-N-Pull off an '80 240D for $20. That pump was working perfectly and the bearings were still solid, so it got my TD up and running again. But then I started thinking, how long did I want to trust a used vacuum-pump off a car even older than mine. So I decided to look for a new bearing-kit or pump that I could install before my 200-mile return trip to Alexandria. First, I found a lever & bearing kit at a local Import parts store for about $270 (About the same price as PeachParts) But when I went to install it, I discovered my original pump also had a broken piston, which was NLA. I wound up buying a new pump for $300 from a friend of a friend that had a small indy Virginia Beach Mercedes repair-shop. Later, I used that new lever & bearing kit to rebuild the $20 used pump to install on my '82 240D. The main problem with these pumps is they originally used a plastic cage inside the bearings to secure the balls. After many years, the plastic cage disintegrates and the balls fall out. When that happens, you still have a fair chance that they may work their way through the timing chain to the oil-pan without catastrophic engine damage. But then what happens if you continue to drive the car, is the lever is now hammering against the drive-cam of the injection pump. That's what probably broke my vacuum-pump piston. Eventually, the lever shatters and those fragments will tear up the timing chain. I was lucky that my pump failed near the end of my trip, as I never heard it, and only discovered a problem when I went to use the brakes a few miles before I arrived and found I had lost my brake power-assist. When I finally tried to shut off the engine, and it wouldn't, that sort-of confirmed there was a problem with the pump. Incidentally, the new lever & bearing kit had a plastic cage bearing, but I went ahead and installed it in my 240D pump anyway, as I expect it will take many years for it to fail. OTOH, the new pump that went in my TD had a steel bearing cage. Both parts were new OE Pierburg manufactured. There have been some threads here about just replacing the lever-bearings with some generic off-the-shelf items. But they included a lot of discussion about trying to find the right design and quality of replacement bearing. As I didn't have the equipment to extract and install bearings, and my TD's pump-lever had already been damaged by hitting the drive-cam. that wasn't an option for me anyway. Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 03-23-2014 at 07:30 AM. Reason: clarity & organization |
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Now going to look at the part about removal.
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
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Which can case even the Newer type Vacuum Pumps with the Bearings that have a Metal Cage and Washers that shield them from falling out. My question What in particular causes vacuum pump failure? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/204187-what-particular-causes-vacuum-pump-failure.html
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW |
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I am not sure what is causing the reduced vacuum. When ever I have had the minutest leak, the engine would not shut off. Now the engine shuts off very slowly.
I tried to take the pump off, but see I have to basically undress the front of the engine, right? I couldn't start because I couldn't find the allen bits. So I used that frustration productively, found a tool chest, drove 45 minutes, picked it up, drove back, and started to put my tools in it (the ones I could find). It is an older Sears Home rolling chest and paid asking price of $65, as he loaded it in the Volvo. Now maybe later in the week I can do something.
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
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Not sure why nobody suggested simply testing if the vacuum pump produces a proper vacuum. If so, it is doing its job and doesn't require replacement. No need to remove the pump (3 hr job if you do it right and clean well). Buy a vacuum gage. I have 4 at home - stand-alone gage (common years ago to test carburetor cars), a "vacuum boost gage" (Harbor Freight), gage on my hand vacuum pump (Harbor Freight), and gage from my plastic Mighty-Mite pump that failed. Disconnect the metal hose at the far end from the vacuum pump, so nothing else in the car is attached, and connect the gage to it. If like me, you have a "hose box" with various sizes, which makes that easy.
If you read 15" Hg vacuum or greater, the pump is fine. If not, sometimes just the outlet check valve is bad. That part is simple to unscrew and replace but costs $60+ even used. You should finish the episodes about Tram and Ember. We kind of lost the storyline. |
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[QUOTE=Adriel;3305906]I am not sure what is causing the reduced vacuum. When ever I have had the minutest leak, the engine would not shut off. Now the engine shuts off very slowly.
If the Vehicle you are speaking of is the 85 300D it came from Mercedes with the later type of Vacuum Pump that has the Metal Ball Bearing Cage and a Washer on each side that prevents the Balls and Cage from falling out. You really should get something to check the actually Vacuum. Since you have not said you are having a hard time braking when you step on the Brake that indicates you have not had a total Vacuum Pump Failure. The 2 times I had a slow shutoff was once when I broke off one of the Plastic Nipples on the Main Vacuum Line and then next time was when the Check Valve on the Vacuum Pump (the Main Vacuum line screws on to it and it just looks like a fitting; if you remove the Vacuum Line and unscrew that fitting look inside and see if all of the parts are there and in good condition and spray it out with WD-40; don't use Brake Cleaner as it can soften the Plastic). Also there is no reason why you cannot have a leak in your Door Lock or part of the Vacuum System that is causing the leak. This is one of the reasons it is best carefully disconnect the Vacuum where it comes off of the Main Line and plug those off an take a Vacuum reading whit a Vacuum Gauge. If the Vacuum is low then it is the Vacuum Pump itself or that Check Valve I spoke of. The first pic shows the location of the Check Valve. The next pic shows a check valve that is no good because it came apart. Some times when it is no good there is no parts at all inside of the Check Valve as the parts fall into a cavity inside of the Vacuum Pump.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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