Balljoint removal on w126
Hi,
I was so inspired by funola's thread on putting a pipe in the ground to make a support for pounding out balljoints I tried to do this. It didn't work, I'm too chicken and too weak. I pounded away with a socket and the rusty (Indiana car) balljoints wouldn't budge. Two lb hammer. I took the spindles down to my favorite Indy and he showed me the proper technique. He stood the spindle on end upside down like you guys show in numerous threads, but instead of using a socket he just smacked deliberately with a big ball peen hammer. He held the arm upright with his left hand and smacked with the right. No helper. No vise. After about ten hits it moved 1mm. Then he hit it with this air hammer pistol tool...I'd never seen one before. It worked its way out in like 30 seconds of air hammering. He then pressed in the new joints with an OTC c frame kit with tons of fitting adapters. He charged me only $100 for the whole thing. I got the spindles bolted back in and the car drives great. |
Quote:
So funola's method was the same as the Indy's method He just did not use the Concrete Floor to beat against. Clearly the Indy has a lot of practice Swinging the Hammer because if you mis and dent up the surrounding Metal you only increase your troubles and make it even harder to beat out the Joint. Having a Socket of other piece of Metal between the Joint keeps that Hammer away from the Steering Knuckle and for those who do not have an Air Hammer allows you to bet the joint all of the way out. Also everyone’s situation is different. Some Ball Joints have been rusted in so badly Members have used a Torch to burn a Hole through the Joint and then beat what is left out. |
Quote:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/321615-red-neck-lower-ball-joint-removal.html |
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