Muffler Installation Basics - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

shertex · #1 03-22-2014, 06:15 PM

Just ordered a new OEM rear muffler for my 92 300D. Trying to figure out if this is something I can do myself.

Does it simply clamp on or should ideally be welded?

If it doesn't need to be welded, how do I ensure a tight seal?

Should I probably get a new clamp?

Anything else I should know? Any pitfalls to avoid?

Thanks.

oilyrag · #2 03-23-2014, 01:12 AM

I just finished installing a rear muffler on my 220. My biggest concern was breaking loose the old muffler. However I sprayed pb blaster for several days and along with a heat gun, it came off easily. Installing was a little more difficult. First, I used anti-seize on the resonator end. Getting the donuts on (before tightening the clamp) was a problem. I soaked the donuts in hot water then used liquid dish soap to slide the donut with a 1/2 in. wood chisel onto the muffler. I ground a groove in the end of the chisel to keep it from slipping off. Last, I tightened the clamp supplied with the new muffler.

Mxfrank · #3 03-23-2014, 10:46 AM

On most of the later cars, they just clamp into place. A new clamp would certainly make things easier. Also be sure to get an appropriate set of rubber suspenders, as the old ones won't be worth reusing.

Junkman · #4 03-23-2014, 11:34 AM

I took a muffler for my SD off the parts car. The hangers wouldn't align. Loosening the clamps let everything settle into the correct relative position. The rubber donuts failed on 1 side. The next set will have internal wires.

tangofox007 · #5 03-23-2014, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

On most of the later cars, they just clamp into place.

How does one determine relative "lateness?"

Stretch · #6 03-24-2014, 04:17 AM

To stop leaks you are best off using an assembly paste (special for exhausts) when you join the parts together.

Replace split rubber mounts

Be prepared for a nasty time cutting the old exhaust section off. Not a pleasant job to do with out a lift in my opinion. I've been tempted to remove the whole bloody system before just to replace that sodding bit you can't reach with the car on axle stands...

shertex · #7 03-24-2014, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

To stop leaks you are best off using an assembly paste (special for exhausts) when you join the parts together.

Replace split rubber mounts

Be prepared for a nasty time cutting the old exhaust section off. Not a pleasant job to do with out a lift in my opinion. I've been tempted to remove the whole bloody system before just to replace that sodding bit you can't reach with the car on axle stands...

So I'm gathering it is unlikely to pull off with a few good tugs?

All I have are ramps. I'll see how far I can get....but my suspicion is I'll have to have someone else do it.

JB3 · #8 03-24-2014, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

So I'm gathering it is unlikely to pull off with a few good tugs?

All I have are ramps. I'll see how far I can get....but my suspicion is I'll have to have someone else do it.

its a case by case situation. Some mufflers will come right off, some will never come off, some are dented in by round exhaust clamps on the pipe sections and have to be cut off, some are welded or rusted to 3 feet of weak rusty piping, ect.

There is nothing we can tell you about your specific situation since at this point in time, anything over 10-15 years old may be numerous repairs and patch jobs. Is it a stock muffler already on there? did someone replace it and repair some pipe? did they use exhaust clamps? did they weld? all questions that need answers.

You will probably need a sawsall to cut off the old muffler if its looking like it wants to ruin your day, and you will probably have to have the new muffler in hand and make a decision when you see it as to whether it can just bolt in, or if pipe repair needs to take place. Most of the adapters for either welding or just clamping will be readily available at most auto parts stores, so you can definitely do it if you want.

however, a good muffler shop will have everything in hand to get it done right then, without a trip to the auto parts store for you.

shertex · #9 03-24-2014, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JB3

its a case by case situation. Some mufflers will come right off, some will never come off, some are dented in by round exhaust clamps on the pipe sections and have to be cut off, some are welded or rusted to 3 feet of weak rusty piping, ect.

There is nothing we can tell you about your specific situation since at this point in time, anything over 10-15 years old may be numerous repairs and patch jobs. Is it a stock muffler already on there? did someone replace it and repair some pipe? did they use exhaust clamps? did they weld? all questions that need answers.

You will probably need a sawsall to cut off the old muffler if its looking like it wants to ruin your day, and you will probably have to have the new muffler in hand and make a decision when you see it as to whether it can just bolt in, or if pipe repair needs to take place. Most of the adapters for either welding or just clamping will be readily available at most auto parts stores, so you can definitely do it if you want.

however, a good muffler shop will have everything in hand to get it done right then, without a trip to the auto parts store for you.

OEM muffler (I assume original) currently installed, held there by two clamps. I had the center muffler replaced several years ago. I don't believe there's a weld.

JB3 · #10 03-24-2014, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

OEM muffler (I assume original) currently installed, held there by two clamps. I had the center muffler replaced several years ago. I don't believe there's a weld.

are the clamps original? or replacement?

pimpernell · #11 03-24-2014, 10:40 AM

All I have are ramps. I'll see how far I can get....but my suspicion is I'll have to have someone else do it.[/QUOTE]

I think you have the right idea about farming the job out to a shop that has the tools to do the job. I have done mufflers in the past, and they are usually so corroded that they will not come apart easily. What looks like a simple job turns into an epic production when a clamp will not loosen up, a pipe is rotted out or won't come apart, or the new parts do not line up correctly. If your do decide to do the job yourself, make sure that you wear goggles. When I did my first one, I failed to have a pair on, and a piece of rust ended up in my eye. Had to go to the eye doctor to have it removed. Tough lesson learned. Good luck!!!

shertex · #12 03-24-2014, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JB3

are the clamps original? or replacement?

Not sure since I'm not sure exactly what happened when the center muffler was replaced 40k miles ago. The fact that there TWO clamps leads me to suspect they're not original.

Stretch · #13 03-25-2014, 05:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

So I'm gathering it is unlikely to pull off with a few good tugs?

All I have are ramps. I'll see how far I can get....but my suspicion is I'll have to have someone else do it.

What every one after this post said! ^^^^^

If I were you I'd give it a go but wear gloves so you don't slice your fingers / hands open. There is nothing much more uncomfortable than exhaust cuts on your hands with all that yucky exhaust dust and crap wriggling its way in.

If it won't come off and you only have ramps or stands I think it is probably time to either get someone else to do it or remove the whole sodding system and then show it who is boss! (Hammer time - grinder time - anger)

OM617YOTA · #14 03-25-2014, 03:35 PM

If you have another vehicle or another way to get to a parts store mid-job, I'd consider it.

I just pay the local Midas $60 to do it while I watch and sip coffee.

Actually I can speak from experience that these engines aren't completely ridiculous even run straight piped. If you have to drive it without the rear muffler, the world will keep spinning.

Simpler=Better · #15 03-25-2014, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

What every one after this post said! ^^^^^

If I were you I'd give it a go but wear gloves so you don't slice your fingers / hands open. There is nothing much more uncomfortable than exhaust cuts on your hands with all that yucky exhaust dust and crap wriggling its way in.

If it won't come off and you only have ramps or stands I think it is probably time to either get someone else to do it or remove the whole sodding system and then show it who is boss! (Hammer time - grinder time - anger)

Actually, the soot makes for a nice tatoo. I've got a permenant spot on one of my fingers from where it bit me once upon a time.