87 300TD - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Maxbumpo · #16 04-01-2014, 11:01 AM

Don't replace the rear struts UNLESS they are leaking - that is the only failure mode.

Replace the strut accordion boots / covers if deteriorated/missing, they keep the dirt and grime off the cylinder and protect the seals from getting damaged and leaking...

Used struts are a great value - same part used on all 124 wagons, so a newer gasser wagon can be the donor if you find one.

treetops · #17 04-01-2014, 11:01 AM

Good to hear that rust on the JPs is apparently superficial, tho I expect to clean that up in the nearer future. I'd like them to be operable for changing tires and such. Although ignorance is bliss I plan on exploring as much as I can to know what's what rust wise. Went to pep boys and got some 1/4" drive extenders, u-joint and going to dry fit to see if I can reach the glow plugs for now as I have to order them (local MB dealer wanted $30/GP...wow)

Treetops

Maxbumpo · #18 04-01-2014, 11:05 AM

I'd recommend removing the intake and replacing ALL the glow plugs at once, only use Bosch plugs (all others are usually much shorter-lived).

When you remove the intake manifold, you will need to remove the hard injection lines, and the plastic clips which hole the hard lines. Those plastic clips are more than likely very brittle and will break, so order a complete set including the rubber strip which goes under each clip. Without these clips, the hard injection lines will rub and wear through and leak in short order. You will also need new gaskets for the intake manifold and cross-over pipe. Be very careful to be clean clean clean with the fuel injection system to keep dirt out. Once you've got all the parts back in place, keep all the injection lines slightly lose at the injector end, crank until fuel starts to dribble from each line and tighten them up as fuel appears. This will help bleed the air from the system quickly.

Shortsguy1 · #19 04-01-2014, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxbumpo

When you remove the intake manifold, you will need to remove the hard injection lines, and the plastic clips which hole the hard lines.

I don't think this is right. For replacing GPs on an OM603, I was able to remove the intake manifold and crossover pipe without moving any hard injection lines. You just unbolt the few places where they attach to the intake manifold.

Maxbumpo · #20 04-01-2014, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shortsguy1

I don't think this is right. For replacing GPs on an OM603, I was able to remove the intake manifold and crossover pipe without moving any hard injection lines. You just unbolt the few places where they attach to the intake manifold.

You probably can do it that way, little more fiddly perhaps.

It is also just possible to replace all the glow plugs without removing the intake manifold, but challenging. I would imagine you would need a 1/4" socket set with the u-joint bit, different extension lengths, magnet to help guide the tool, long forceps, etc. etc.

treetops · #21 04-01-2014, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxbumpo

Don't replace the rear struts UNLESS they are leaking - that is the only failure mode.

Replace the strut accordion boots / covers if deteriorated/missing, they keep the dirt and grime off the cylinder and protect the seals from getting damaged and leaking...

Used struts are a great value - same part used on all 124 wagons, so a newer gasser wagon can be the donor if you find one.

So I checked the struts again and they don't appear to be leaking. No oil on or around the strut, subframe or floor where I park it everything appeared (dirty) dry. The reservoir is full as well. The accordion boots need replacing for sure, tho not going MXFranks route unless they are impossible to find.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

look at your control valve near the differential, if the control link is broken, and the sls is in constant lift mode, it'll force fluid out.

The level controller is oil free as well, just dirty, but is in the emptying position. Control link is attached as well. Assuming its trying to lower the height makes me wonder what the correct ride height is??

No fluid leaking makes sense IMO because the system is not pressurized when it is calling for emptying(according to the online manual). Also explains to me why the ride is very bumpy no pressure for the strut piston to work with. Glad I wore my seat belt-I'm sure I would have been launched out of the seat-yeah that bumpy)

So what is the normal ride height supposed to be and does this limited info point to accumulators, a bad pump(s) or a stuck torsion bar at the axle??

On the GPs, man they are hard to get to but the extenders get me there, now will the GPs clear the fuel pump coming out or going in? I'm learning.

Treetops

Maxbumpo · #22 04-02-2014, 01:55 PM

I would not mess with the linkage for the control valve for the rear suspension. If it is not set properly, I suspect you may have to find a dealer with all the special tools to set it up for you. See the factory repair manual.

Replace the two spheres, they are the only wear items (rather like replacing the shocks/struts on a typical car's suspension), and then see how she rides.

Maxbumpo · #23 04-02-2014, 01:57 PM

Glow plugs _should_ clear the injection pump, unless the pump is adjusted/rotated so that the top of the pump is too close to the engine. Doubtful, but may be possible?

Don't move the injection pump unless you absolutely must, and use a cold chisel to mark the position of the pump relative to the block prior to moving, so you can return it to the original position. Pump timing, once set at the factory, is typically good for the life of the engine.