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  #31  
Old 04-04-2014, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bt1211 View Post
I just put a new rebuilt starter on my 300cd about 8 months ago, as I was changing to a 4 speed.Thought it made sense that I put on a "new"one, as I had pulled the engine.

That starter just went out on me last week(drove the car maybe 10 times). It was from O'reillys, life-time replacement(I always get the lifetime on alts and starters).

...............
From all I've read, rebuilt Bosch starters are a crap shoot as far as what you get. I've heard China does not make good quality copper wires, which is a very important ingredient in starter motors. It is what generates a starters flux/ power. Replacement armatures or the field coils from China will not be as good as the original Bosch. Armature and field coils do not go bad unless overheated and can be easily tested on the bench. If the armature is also mechanically sound, I'd take a used original Bosch one over a new replacement that is made in China any day.

It is not hard to take a starter apart and reassemble. Save those old Bosch starters for parts! If the starter was not abused or overheated, chances are all you need are brushes and bushings and a cleaning and lube.

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  #32  
Old 04-16-2014, 09:19 AM
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So I am planning on replacing my starter this weekend if the weather holds. I have a non turbo car. Trying to decide whether to do the job from above or below.
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  #33  
Old 04-16-2014, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by aieeegrunt View Post
So I am planning on replacing my starter this weekend if the weather holds. I have a non turbo car. Trying to decide whether to do the job from above or below.
Below is easier, less things to remove (actually nothing but the starter itself needs to be removed). However, you have to have the steering all the way one direction (right?) in order to barely get the starter out between the steering components and the frame. Although I have not tried it, I think jacking up the car lowers the parts so you have more room to remove the starter. You may get the starter out the first try, or you may fight with it for an hour (I did the first time), and learn some new swear words. Be assured it will come out if you hold your mouth just right
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  #34  
Old 04-16-2014, 02:16 PM
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Advance auto has the starter for the 617 turbo p/n 16445 remanufactured with a lifetime warranty for $79.99. If you order online and pick up at the store, you can use the discount code TRT30 which gives you 30% off your entire order. That makes it $56+tax--cheaper than buying the solenoid to fix it yourself.
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  #35  
Old 04-16-2014, 03:53 PM
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Thanks for the heads up
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  #36  
Old 04-16-2014, 03:56 PM
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I found a combination of above and below easiest on my non turbo. Bottom starter bolt from underneath and the top one from above, then I lifted the starter out from above I believe.
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold
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  #37  
Old 04-16-2014, 04:38 PM
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only one way to do it...

from the bottom

long extentions on your breaker bar

reach up along side the trans to get to both the top and bottom bolt head

turn wheels all the way right

one its loose, rotate starter 180 and feed it out through the small space between the frame and steering

easy peasy... literaly 10 minuets last time i did it
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  #38  
Old 04-16-2014, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
only one way to do it...

from the bottom

long extentions on your breaker bar

reach up along side the trans to get to both the top and bottom bolt head

turn wheels all the way right

one its loose, rotate starter 180 and feed it out through the small space between the frame and steering
Agreed 100%
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  #39  
Old 04-16-2014, 05:34 PM
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Forgot to mention..

You'll also need to use a "universal" at the end of the long extensions to get the angle on the starter bolts.
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  #40  
Old 04-16-2014, 06:56 PM
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i did a 240D all from the top, except a brief squirm under the car (which wasnt elevated at all) to manage the bottom bolt. if you dont have jackstands or a secure place to lift I'd say definitely give it a try from the top. its annoying to take the battery, tray and air cleaner out but its also not challenging at all. also might give you a chance to see if theres any rust or corrosion around the battery.
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  #41  
Old 04-16-2014, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepstar View Post
i did a 240D all from the top, except a brief squirm under the car (which wasnt elevated at all) to manage the bottom bolt. if you dont have jackstands or a secure place to lift I'd say definitely give it a try from the top. its annoying to take the battery, tray and air cleaner out but its also not challenging at all. also might give you a chance to see if theres any rust or corrosion around the battery.
It is possible to get the top bolt off on a 240 from above, but NOT a 300. The upper starter bolt is only accessed from under with long extensions on a 300. There is also no room to remove the starter out the top on a 300 without removing the battery tray. Best just to take it out the bottom, no need to remove anything else.
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  #42  
Old 04-16-2014, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
It is possible to get the top bolt off on a 240 from above, but NOT a 300
I have to disagree with that. I got my top bolt out from above on my 300D NA.
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold
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  #43  
Old 04-16-2014, 10:29 PM
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It is possible to remove the top bolt from a 300D from above...on a non turbo...as long as you do the allen wrench and 10mm wrench method...
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  #44  
Old 04-16-2014, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
It is possible to remove the top bolt from a 300D from above...on a non turbo...as long as you do the allen wrench and 10mm wrench method...
Also possible on a 300D Turbo. I did it on my 83. I used a gear wrench on a 10 mm Allen stub for both removal and install.
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  #45  
Old 04-17-2014, 12:23 PM
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Huh, quite the controversy!

I use ramps to lift the car, I don't have jack stands and wouldn't trust them on gravel anyways.

I don't think you can turn the wheels on the car once it is sitting on the ramps, so I may be stuck with doing it all from above

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