After rebuilding the injectors and pulling the hard lines, what's the procedure for priming the fuel back into the lines and injectors?

Is there something I should do while disassembling the system that would make it easier?

when I changed the main fuel filter it took FOREVER for the engine to start, and I even filled it with fuel.

thanks

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'92 300D 2.5
'99 E300TD

If all you did was remove the Fuel Injection Hard Lines from rhe Fuel Injection Pump the Fuel Injection Pump Housing should still be full of Fuel assuming the Valves in the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump prevent Fuel from going back to the Fuel Tank.

Assuming the Fuel Injection pump is Full all you should need to do is to connect the Fuel Injection hard Lines but only tighten the Fuel Injection Pump ends of the Line.
Screw the Injector Ends down by hand or screw them down and back them off a bit. Crank the Engine until fuel is coming out of all of them and then tighten the Nuts and try to start.

If in a reasonable time the Engine does not start try loosening the Fuel Injection Hard Lines at the Injectors and reapeat to see if for some reasont there is Air Bubbles that did not make it out. I believe you have long Fuel Injection Lines on Your Engine.

The object is to allow a way for Air to escape in the Fuel Injection Hard Lines.
If Air gets trapped inside of them it takes an ungodly amount of cranking to get the Air out even on the 617 Engines that have shorter Fuel Injection Hard Lines.

Concerning the Fuel Filter.
While you system is supposed to be able to bleed the Air out due to the way the Fuel Pressure Relief/Overflow Valve is made things don't often work as well as predicted.

If possible during the Spin-on Fuel Filter change fill the Fuel Filter with clean Disel Fuel; even 1/2 a Filter Full of Fuel would help shorten the cranking time.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel