|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
83 300TD no start when weather is warm??
Hey All, I’ve done a search and haven’t found much in the way of possible solutions for my problem. My 83 300TD won’t start when the ambient temperature is warm, say approx. 50 degrees and up. The problem started towards the end of last summer. I drive to work about 30 miles one way on the freeway so it gets good and warmed up. It got to the point where if I stopped anywhere between home and work (i.e. shut the engine down), I could almost guarantee that I wasn’t going to get it started until it completely cooled down. Compounding the issue last summer was a slowly dying battery that ran out of juice within a few minutes of cranking during these ‘non-start’ episodes. So I got a new battery and basically quit driving the car anywhere if I knew I would need to stop and start up again.
Sounds like a hot-start problem, right? Fast forward to dead of winter…I happen to be in a situation where I needed to restart the car after I had just shut it down and VOILA! it started no problem. The car was at full operating temperature, the only difference being that it was cold outside. So I’ve been driving it all winter with no issues…it always starts up. A few weeks ago the days started to warm up again (I’m in northwest Arkansas where we have four distinct seasons), and the problem started rearing its ugly head again. It actually started gradually because when the weather was about 50 degrees or so, the car would start but I’d have to crank it about 10+ seconds and keep the started engaged even after it started to fire…almost as if the starter was “running” the car for few seconds before the engine would take off on its own. Now that its consistently 70 degrees outside, it won’t start no matter how long I crank if the car is already fully warmed up. Keep in mind that when I talk about it not starting, its always after I’ve been driving and the car is at full operating temperature AND its warm outside. Starting it in the morning or after work is no problem. (Basically when the car is dead cold) The glow plugs appear to work fine, at least when the car is cold. Any thoughts or ideas to troubleshoot or further investigate? Can the ambient temp. make a difference? Thanks much, Zack
__________________
1975 300D 113K 1983 300TD 149K _______________________ 2001 SLK320 - SOLD 1983 380SL - SOLD 1987 190D 203K - SOLD 1996 C36 AMG - SOLD |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
I don't have an answer for you, but I had a similar though less severe problem with my 1979 300sd. It started instantly when cold in all weather, but on hot days a restart when hot (especially after highway speeds) required cranking to the point where it would blow a cloud of unburned diesel out the tailpipe on startup.
In my case, I found that pressing the throttle pedal down halfway or more on hot starts helped a lot. Have you ever tried that? I never got a definitive answer, but it was suggested it might be related to the governor sticking. I don't know enough about the injection pump to say if that makes any sense.
__________________
Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
You're problem sounds similar. I have tried that, i think mostly out of instinct from years of daily driving old vehicles That technique does seem to help when its in that quasi-won't start phase around 50 degrees. Doesn't seem to make a difference otherwise.
__________________
1975 300D 113K 1983 300TD 149K _______________________ 2001 SLK320 - SOLD 1983 380SL - SOLD 1987 190D 203K - SOLD 1996 C36 AMG - SOLD |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
I had the same problem many years ago with a VW Rabbit diesel. The engine had many miles on it and LOW COMPRESSION. I fixed the problem by selling the car---to a junk yard.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
OP, how long has it been since a valve adjust?
__________________
1968 230S Automatic, Elfenbein 1975 O309D Executive Westfalia Camper Bus, Blau/ Weiss 1972 280SEL 4,5 Dunkelrot 1966 VW Type 34 "Grosser" Karmann-Ghia 1963 VW 1500 Variant Pearlweiss 1969 VW Variant Automatic, Perugruen 1971 VW Squareback Automatic, Clementine Orange 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon- Our belated welcome to the 21st century! Polar White 1973 280SEL 4,5 Sliding Roof "The Bomb", Dunkelblau. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Come to think of it, it has been awhile since a valve adjustment has been done...definitely something I need to do to properly troubleshoot further. I'll try to do that this weekend and see if it helps. Thanks!
__________________
1975 300D 113K 1983 300TD 149K _______________________ 2001 SLK320 - SOLD 1983 380SL - SOLD 1987 190D 203K - SOLD 1996 C36 AMG - SOLD |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Very strange problem. Is the starter motor cranking speed the same with a hot engine vs cold? If the same, I'd suspect a fuel issue. The first thing I'd recommend doing is replace the cigar return hose with a temporary clear vinyl hose and look for bubbles. It should be solid with no bubbles at all times, hot or cold.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Well, you need fuel, heat (usually from either compression or glow plugs), air, and exhaust flow.
Sounds like you've got heat. I like the thought about checking the valve clearances. Another thought: fuel rack in injection pump is sticking on closed, try depressing the accelerator pedal once or twice prior to cranking. You may also have vacuum lines swapped on the ignition switch, which can cause all sorts of odd behavior.
__________________
Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
1975 300D 113K 1983 300TD 149K _______________________ 2001 SLK320 - SOLD 1983 380SL - SOLD 1987 190D 203K - SOLD 1996 C36 AMG - SOLD |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Doubt it is the cigar hose. Leaking or blocked, it is on the return side, nothing to do with fuel for starting.
__________________
Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
You can probably get away without priming as the spin-on filter will still be full of fuel. But if you want to play it safe, after changing the hose just pump the primer until you hear fuel "squeaking" through the pressure relief in the IP.
__________________
1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
The suggestion to replace the cigar hose with clear tubing is to see if there are air bubbles coming through the system. Nothing to do per se with the hose itself.
__________________
Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
A clear hose on the return is THE best diagnostic aid for diesels. That is the first thing I do on any fuel issues. The idea is that no matter where the air is coming from, it will end up in the return line to the tank. ps, you don't need to prime since it is on the output. Crimp the cigar hose with vise grip before removal to lessen fuel spillage. Have the soft tubing ready to slip on. Practice on a 5/16 barb so you can get the 1/4 tubing on fast. pps. I'd suggest doing one thing at a time. Do the clear hose first before the valves since it is easy and take minutes. I don't think it's the valves since your engine starts and runs fine when it is cold but it never hurts to adjust the valves.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked Last edited by funola; 04-11-2014 at 01:29 PM. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Ah, OK, thanks for cluing me in. I'll try to pay more attention!
__________________
Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Work methodically, starting with simple/cheap fixes to complex/expensive. Usually these problems are something simple/cheap, you just need to spend the time working out the nature of the problem, eliminating possibilities, until the solution presents itself.
__________________
Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|