Has anyone DIY'd their exhaust (w123 300d)?
 

Considering taking a stab at my exhaust. It is pretty rotten aside from the front pipe.

My plan is to get the OE style front section and resonator combo, then just run pipe out the back (delete rear muffler). Given the odd OE size, I assume this will require adapting pipe sizes.

What is really scaring me is the lovely, rusty flange where the front pipe joins the middle section. I am assuming that getting that off won't be pretty. And will I be able to get new parts properly and sealed up....

I have never messed with stuff like that. Is it practical or should I just let a shop do it?

Thanks

I got all the parts in yesterday since my fell part during my differential install. Pictures and my problem issues (if any) this weekend.

I haven't really got many pictures of that type of work - I hate doing exhausts myself.

If I had a lift I'd be happier doing the work - working with just jacks and axle stands is rough for exhaust work.

Although it sounds mad I advocate removing the whole effing thing from the manifold (leave manifold in place) all the way to the back - dragging it out from under the car and then doing the necessary.

In principle exhaust work is very simple - just a pipe isn't it? But the problem of access, rust, muck and stubbornness can make a simple job a real pain in the arse.

The worst thing about this job is cutting your self and then getting exhaust dust rubbed into the wound.

Wear eye protection and gloves

Buy some exhaust paste and fit disturbed joints with it - nothing worse than putting together an exhaust "dry" only to have the sodding thing leak...

I can say that all the parts new cost under $300.00. that includes new center pipe with resonator, new muffler, new hangers, and new hardware kit. All OEM. It looks pretty easy. I am planning on this job in the AM on Saturday. I will post pictures along the way, but here's my disclaimer. I suck at pictures and discriptions. Some folks have PM'd me and said I show the beginning picture, mid-way picture, and final picture -- worst than Haynes. So, I will try my best.

Look forward to seeing your writeup, Greazzer.

I agree on the price, my intention to take out the rear muffler is just because from the accounts of the folks who have experimented with straight pipe setups, the resonator is doing most of the work.

Deleting the muffler gives a slightly funkier exhaust tone and removes the item that in my local climate is guaranteed to rot away again first.

I've done this on every Benz I've ever owned, including my old 300CD. I usually replace it end to end, to avoid messing with rusty flanges and slip collars. Flanges aren't all that hard to deal with...if the bolts don't turn, you can usually just grind off the bolts. If you're trying to seal old to new, I have a product that will help you quite a bit: CoolCat Express Corp.: Walker Acoustiseal Exhaust Sealant I have to agree that the best way to do this is to drop the entire mess as a unit, and then replace with new. It ends up cheaper in the long run, and it works right the first time.

It's a pud job. Get the car up, you get down low. Wear safety glasses. An idjut can do. Save a lot of frustration and redo, go with an all new system - it's the only smart way. Use new rubber hangers at the back and make sure the center bracket is where it should be. With all new parts one should be able to do it in an hour.

Yuk
 

Did the entire exhaust from front to back....whatta PITA without a lift. The most challenging part was the makeup between the manifold and the flex section. Tight clearance on your back with (rustbelt) debris falling toward you. With a lift, it's almost a breeze. I wouldn't replace just part of it...the time you spend splicing things together only to have the old pieces go in a year or two doesn't make sense (to me anyway).

is there a stainless option for the exhaust?

I did it on the 240D, just replaced everything with dealer parts. The hardest part was the nasty bolts connecting the foremost portion to the manifold. I recall blood being shed. I actually was able to do it all without jacking up the car ... bit of a physical trial but not torture. I think the parts were less than $300, and easy to fit together. No leaks (that I'm aware of).

Mercedes 1977-84 240D, 300D, CD and TD Exhaust Systems

No idea on Timevalve's pricing.

I believe some Walker components are listed as stainless, but not sure if an entire system is available from them.

Iam thinking if you remove the rear Muffler, you might get some droning in the cabin. Leave the rear one and remove the center one.

They are both a straight through design. there is no baffles to slow down the Exhaust flow like a gasser that creates back pressure.



http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/muffler2.jpghttp://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/muffler1.jpg




Charlie

Cool pictures Charlie

Here's a cruddy video of what my 84 sounded like with the rear muffler deleted.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zc3aNsfOkJ8

Timevalve still lists a stainless exhaust, although I don't know if they actually still make it. Ordinary steel exhausts seem to last seven to ten years on Diesel cars, I've never felt the need to go stainless.

I usually try and paint my entire exhaust before assemby. Might last a few minutes longer. My neighbor (An air cooled nut) loves to powdercoat new exhaust components. I havent tried that yet, but he swears by it.

Either way, the light oil film on the raw steel is extremely temporary. Id clean it off before assembly and do a more permanent finish if you go with new parts.

re: exhaust system rebuild.

Points no one mentioned (but everyone knows):

If you replace half the system instead of all of it, you are guaranteeing that you will be down under there again to do the other half. As my dear old dad told me before the Flood: If you buy one tire at a time you are always buying tires!

WHen you replace it all, it all fails at the same time, which makes it easier to deal with.

For some reason, diesel systems seem to be less prone to components rusting together, IMHO. Far easier to deal with than gasoline exhaust.

I cant imagine wanting a louder exhaust system than OEM, but then Im running a 190D... at 65 mph it sounds like an old Ferrari in hour 23 of LeMans.

I've been thinking about straight piping mine since just about the time I got it eight and a half years ago, but I can't bring myself to cut up a fully functional original exhaust system (at least on a Benz), and the stupid thing refuses to fail.

thanx for the time valve link zach..i emailed them

If anyone is interested. I have a pretty good complete exhaust system from a 240 that I took of a junk car. It was supposed to go to someone but he disappeared.
ill let it go cheap but its in Chicago

Great advice. I did that on my signature car in 2005, and last year when I had to pull the axles, I removed the rear muffler with no problem at all, and it still looked like new. It also helped that I anti-seized the slip joints and didn't go crazy on the clamps. I would also recommend doing the whole system, they aren't that expensive.

Exhaust is done
 

Hey Z.,

It's incredibly easy. On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being EZ Peezy, this is a 1. I am assuming you have access to a lift. If no lift, I would say a 2 with jack stands and lying on your back. The only issue I had was cutting off a jacket from the old set up and grinding it smooth. That took a while. Overall, assuming you don't have to mess with any non-OEM or backyard repairs, I would say about 30 mintues max on this one. All the parts fit like a charm, slipped into their correct spot, and that was it. I am missing one clamp and new rubber hangers, and the repair kit for the bar-hanger deal off the transmission. I jumped the gun because I had the morning free for about 2 hours and the other parts are not showing up until Wednesday. Plus, the noise was horrible. I used rubber donuts to temporarily hang the muffler before I used the snow flake like deals. Other than that, no tricks or issues.

talked to the Time Valve guys
complete stainless steel exahuast for a 300d shipped
$765.00 shipped

thought the was a pretty good deal
they were very repsosnive also..emailed me right back

Was that everything shipped for $765 ? That is, header pipe with flex section, all the way back ? If so, not a shabby price ...For the turbo set up, it will certainly last a lifetime!

Timevalve have a good rep. I have heard people talking about them since I joined my first Mercedes mailing list in 1995.

One guy from the online Benz community purchased a complete exhaust for a w108 gasser. They sent the wrong front pipe.

He called them expecting to get some song and dance. Instead he got put through to the guy in charge of fabrication who apologized and asked him to send pics of what they sent and what it was supposed to bolt up to. They shipped a correct replacement out in a few days, free.

Does anyone know the SS used and it's thickness? I checked out some of the forums and folks said it's thin stuff which causes the exhaust to have a "throatier" sound.

Thanks, Greazzer. What do you mean by a jacket?

Unfortunately, no hoist. So I am seriously considering putting on a complete and just taking off the current front pipe and throwing it in the shed. We'll see.

Way this has evolved (to tell the whole story) I had a price from a local exhaust shop to do 2.5" straight pipe deal for $225 from the front pipe back, $50 more with a resonator installed. Sounded good.

Until I rolled up and as soon as it was on the hoist: $340. Nothing had changed (except I was there with money).

That was Friday morning. I was hopping mad. Especially as the system on there now is disintegrating completely now, going really fast so I have to fix NOW.

Here is where everyone says "Hey, you can get a complete system for $300."

Well okay, in the USA yes, though I have not found one that comes in under $330 with the install kit factored in. However, if I buy the same parts here in Canada, ~$500 shipped.

I can buy stateside and have the stuff shipped about an hour south of me to upper NY state. BUT. Unfortunately, only two of the major online vendors will allow a transaction with a Cdn billing address and a US delivery address (the only ones that do, do so when you use PayPal).

The first one has no w123 muffler parts. The other one has the center and rear at great prices... then wants almost $70 more than everyone else for the front pipe. Confused? Welcome to my weekend.... :D.

Are we having fun yet?

Thanks everyone for the advice and info.

I will probably buy the center and rear pipes from the house in AZ and cross my fingers that my front pipe doesn't crap out in a month....

Jacket ... My "original" system was pieced together. So, to make it fit, there were sections of tubing which joined two pieces together. So, it was a jacket or a coupler if that makes sense. And, BTW ... a certain parts house in AZ sold me everthing from down pipe back, center pipe with resonator, muffler and pipe, 2 MB brackets, 4 of the "good" hangers, and the complete repair kit (all the items which go on the metal bar off the tranny to the downpipe) and that's shipped for under $300.00.

I can tell you that with just the header pipe off the manifold, my car was incredibly obnoxiously loud. My system broke into 2 major pieces while doing the diff swap, and there was no way to fix it ... So, I know how it feels to be in a bind to get it fixed. Do you have any old school muffler places in your neck of the woods ? In my area, they sell the 2 1/2" or 3" sticks of pipe and custom bend it for X amount of dollars per bend. If you want straight pipe, I doubt that would cost over $100. Just an option but that assumes you have one of these old timer places in town. We only got 2 left ... the Midas of the world are wiping out the old timers ...

** Disclaimer: I am talking about another supplier here because PP does not currently list any exhaust parts for w123 5-cyl. **

No Greazzer, all chains for exhaust work now here. What few independents there were, got bought out and converted to chains years ago.

Can you do me a fav and send me the part number for the front pipe you got? I am also looking at the House in AZ but they tell me $190 for a front pipe. Hell I can get it for less here. I have an '85, maybe it's different -- what year is yours? Or maybe their catalog isn't working right. (I had to find the P/N for the install kit on another site, then enter it into their search, to see it displayed.)

The place I went, where I got the runaround, is part of a regional chain but that franchise used to be run by two brothers who did all kinds of custom work. You would often see rods and customs out front. They did a custom system for me on an antique Volvo years ago, when some of the OE components had gone NLA. Nice work and fair pricing.

Unfortunately, when I went back apparently the brothers cashed out and moved away. This was the new owner and his crew that I was dealing with.

I will make some calls on Monday but I don't have much time if I want to ship the stuff to NY State for next weekend. I am probably already too late for the free ground shipping. My system isn't far from your old one now in noise, it has four holes in the middle pipe so it won't be long before it lets go.

checked under 1981 300D non-turbo

Ecklers is where I got the header pipe. BUT and BUT ... I have the non-turbo currently.

Box:

1



Tracking Number:

837418037449291




Qty

Item

Description



1

P49-032

Header Pipe, 300 ...







Qty

Item

Options

Price



1

Mercedes® Header Pipe, Front, 123 Chassis
Item # P49-032



$29.99 USD



Amount

$29.99 USD

I removed the rear muffler and have better quicker rpm climb and no drone at all. It's only slightly louder.

Can you buy a larger flexpipe and easily fit larger diameter piping all the way back? I'd like less back pressure in my modified wagon...

People have managed to cram a 3inch downpipe in their 617... Just run full 3 inch stainless all the way back, no devices of muffling.

You can save yourself a lot of expenses if you just go with one short piece of pipe.



http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/a...IMG_0695-1.jpg
__________________
.
Charlie

Ah, okay, I thought you had a turbo car. There is a big difference on some of the pieces for the non-turbos. The center pipe (no resonator) for my CD is listed at $16 at one site.

From scanning other threads on straight pipe setups, the key to no drone is to have the exhaust tip exiting about 1" behind the bumper. If you put it into the stock position, you will get drone.

Matching the downpipe to stock 2.5" pipe is mostly the issue that caused the bump in price at the shop. The extra time would be to fabricate a joint there to go from the stock pipe diameter to 2.5".

Whoa, Charlie, no more coffee for you today.

You ought to know better. I would NEVER paint my hood black. Tch.

Anyway, I was planning on this approach:

What diameter pipe did you use for the rear section, and how did you adapt it up to the center resonator section? Did you do it yourself or did a shop fabricate it?

I am starting to like this idea.

Here is the Ansa web site, maybe get the MB Exhaust system from them.


OE Replacement | ANSA Automotive


Charlie

That's a good one, saw that picture a couple years ago on a search.

That would good in Texas :cowboy: along with the Long Horns on the Hood. :D



Coffee? How did you know I just finished off a full pot? :icon_eek:



The SD with the black hood was owned by Youngbenz, haven`t seen him in a long time on the forum.



Charlie

He sold it a while back, that was a backup hood from the junkyard. I think these days he's driving a 7.3 powerstroke.

Attention Greazzer (or anyone with the info)
 

Having trouble sourcing the all-in-one exhaust install kit. Looks like I will have to assemble some hardware.

I have found the locknuts for all the associated bolts online. But not the bolts themselves. (The actual spec isn't listed for the nuts.)

Anyone got the spec for the lag bolts that attach the flanges where the downpipe joins the middle section?

For some reason I have about 15 hangers of various flavours sitting around, so that is not a concern :eek:. Guess I must have added them onto several of my group parts orders....

Thanks

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps457a5681.jpg

Go for the gold.

Is that a church organ instead of a trunk mounted amp and bass speaker?

Really, Jooseppi. Like I would put a big ugly star like that on my trunklid.

Who could have predicted that one man's tale of exhaust woe would unleash all the forum wisearses :antlers:?

Z.,

I have to hit the yard this week. Do you want me to grab one of those bolts ? You want the bolt from the header pipe where it connects to the center pipe with resonator ... or did I miss the boat ?

You are correct, the bolts for the flang where the header pipe meets the resonator pipe - but I just need the dimensions. If you can pull one and measure the size/thread and the lag length, I can visit a hardware store or fastener supply depot.

If you were offering to send, that is very cool but it takes 8-11 working days for first class mail... and I am aiming to get my system on next weekend.

Now maybe CHARLIE has one of them just lying around :D....

Im looking for a rear section for my 85 300TD wagon. Its proving to be an uphill battle so far. Every place I look up shows it exists in their system but never in stock or discontinued.

One place can order the rear section direct from ANSA, but quoting minimum $220. I have the middle section, but I dont want to put it on till I have the rear.

Front seems still in good shape. Im trying to go Canadian to save on time and shipping costs, but its also an uphill battle...

Did you manage to find something or piece one together in the end?

Im considering doing one myself, just buy the muffler part and piece togetehr piping myself and weld it up, (I guess I shouldnt say "just" because I konw it will be more than just putting one made to fit...

Any Ideas?

In the end
 

The end came faster than expected. The whole system collapsed on me on a Sunday afternoon.

It's rare that my local supplier can deliver on larger items (vs. US prices) but this time she delivered a jaw-dropper, the front and back sections for way less than US online suppliers. The mid pipe is Walker and the rear section is Ansa. Of course this is a sedan. Supposedly I got the very last Ansa one in Canada (came all the way from Vancouver).

I had the shop do it.

I had to get the bolts for the flange between the front pipe and the mid section, as well as the flange itself, from the dealer as the indy suppliers were out of stock on any hardware items. Word to the wise: the flanges are thicker on aftermarket than OE pipes. The bolts could barely be threaded and worked loose after less than a week. My shop sourced some other hardware for it.