In connection with the Stage 2 tuning I think I'm going to do on my 98 E300D, I'm considering putting it on a dynanometer to get before and after readings. One forum member suggested that I need (a) to make sure certain diagnostic port sockets are jumped to completely disable traction control (apparently it's not adequate simply to turn ESP off); and (b) to make sure the test is done in 3rd from 2000 rpm to redline without engaging the kick down switch.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this, experience in doing it?

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

only hearsay, I was going to suggest that Maximum Performance place in Bristol, but then I remembered they are muscle car only, and would probably freak out when you showed up in a mercedes diesel.

Id call around, looks like there are a few dyno shops in the area. I remember finding a place that was willing to dyno my diesel converted van, but I can't remember exactly where that is.

First step is finding someone who will actually dyno your car. Worst case scenario, NEIT has a dyno setup, you could contact them and it would probably be free, but take a while to schedule if they were interested

__________________
This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

The place I've been talking to is Dynotech Tuning in Seekonk....they seem pretty knowledgable and experienced. Found out that they actually put all four wheels on rollers as a way to take traction control out of the equation.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

From what I've experienced at the dyno with these cars, you need to figure out how to completely disable the system. Turning the dash-mounted switch off is NOT the answer, Shertex.

__________________
1998 W210 diesel (wiped out by a texter)
Baum spring compressor "for rent"

Could you simply unplug the harness from the ABS unit under the hood? I imagine that will set fault codes though... without a STAR scanner you might have issues.

-J

__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

Yes, I indicated that in my original post. From what I've learned, though, the place I'm going to use has front rollers that match the speed of the rear wheels. So, if that's the case, I don't know that it's necessary to disable the system.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

If. Hes taking it to a place with all 4 wheels on rollers going the same speed, does the traction control matter?

From what shertex says, the place hes going to does that to get around the issue

EDIT- shertex beat me to it

__________________
This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

I thought you made dyno pulls in your 1:1 ratio which is 4th in that car isn't it?

The dyno operator would know best.

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

ASR is Acceleration Slip Regulation that reduces throttle and can apply a single rear brake to limit wheel spin when accelerating.

ESP is stability control that can apply brakes on a single wheel to tug it back from being sideways and do what ASR can.

ESP was a $$ option on SL cars of that era, not sure if it was an option on others. ASR is pretty common and there should be a switch to shut it off. ( early 90's cars has a snow chain switch that muted but didn't shut it off, later cars has a shut it off switch )

On my 91 300SL with ASR I was able to get it to go into a limp mode when the rear wheels were off the ground and in drive.

On my 97 SL 320 , ASR off is really ASR off.

Do you have a way to clear a code? If so I'd be real tempted to unplug both rear wheel speed sensors and let it go in to limp mode or pull the ABS fuse or unplug the connector from the ABS unit.

I have ESP. I can turn it off, but I don't think it's ENTIRELY off, from what I understand. Anyway, I think the traction control issue is now irrelevant....I have confirmed that the front and rear rollers are synced with one another. So, as far as the car is concerned, it's as if it's traveling down the road.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

I dyno'd my car at a friend's shop who has a Dynojet. I did the following:

1. Located the tach signal wire and extended it into the engine compartment for easy access to the pickup. Putting an optical sensor on this car is a pain because there's no room to mount it.

2. Switched off the ASR/BAS. The car will flash and get very angry with you for a while after you take it off the dyno but it will recover.

3. Run the car up to 45 MPH in 4th before making the pull. Also, it doesn't matter if it downshifts, it will only last a second or two and there will be a little spike in the graph, that's all. If you don't floor the accelerator, you won't move the TPS all the way so the engine isn't making full power.

My car dyno'd about 148HP stock if I remember correctly. I didn't do it again after the injection pump work so I don't know what it is now.

I'll see if I can find the dyno sheet or file but it's been a while.

__________________
-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

Most W210 Diesels didn't have ASR, they got ESP.

I'd think that if front is being driven by rear that it would be happy and not apply the brakes or cut throttle.

IIRC - on my W210 off seemed like off. Could spin the tires and drift in the rain with no traction control.

With the W211 Bluetec I drive now, ESP off definitely isn't off.......

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

I don't know a thing about your Benz but I know a lot about dynos having worked in the field for 31 1/2 years.

Yes, a 4-wheel dyno will act like the car is driving down a flat, level road and the ABS-type system is fine.

The DynoJet mentioned by one of the posters is a limited tool. Most of those do not have a PAU (power absorbtion unit) and can only measure during acceleration. Some of the newer DynoJets DO have APU's, however.

FEW "tuner" dyno operators have a clue of what they're doing. The car should be aligned carefully (centered) and snugly NOT TIGHTLY strapped down. If the car is tied down too tightly it'll effect the readings as downward force is applied to the load cells. The the test run should start slowly as the engine, driveline, and tires are warmed in preparation for the test run. I would run the test in high gear (1:1) as the math is much simpler. I agree that a short kick-down is no big deal.

The test run should be repeated a minimum of 3 times to assure that the results are not a "fluke", which does happen. Following the run the car should be driven at a slow speed (say, 25 MPH or so) for a couple of minutes to let everything cool - this is especially true for a Diesel as the turbo needs to spool down and cool a bit.

Hope all of this is helpful.

Dan

Thanks, Dan. That's very helpful. Are there any risks to the car that I need to be aware of?

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife