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  #1  
Old 04-25-2014, 02:51 PM
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300td hatch strut removal

Simple question? How do you get the strut past the hinge? Tri square bolt is out, pin is out. How do you remove the strut?

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  #2  
Old 04-25-2014, 02:56 PM
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Dark but it's in there ready to come out. What's the trick?
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  #3  
Old 04-25-2014, 04:37 PM
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Ok, future advice grab the old one and pull it out on the inside of the hinge. And you need to lift the hatch up higher then you think it can reach.

My only other advice is to make sure there are no women and children around to hear you swearing!

The speaker surround foam is basically a sticky goo after 30 years. Messy.
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01 Golf TDI: 265k RIP 2/4/15
85 300TD: 233k- sold
84 300DT: 228k- sold
90 300SE: 148k-sold
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  #4  
Old 04-26-2014, 12:58 AM
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That was literally the first thing I did when I got mine. I could not handle having the hatch like that. Unfortunately I don't remember how I did it, so I'm afraid I couldn't have offered any advice. Sure feels good having working support struts though.

-Rog
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  #5  
Old 04-26-2014, 04:14 PM
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correction... it feels good the SECOND time you open the hatch with new struts... the first time you open the hatch with new struts... you smack yourself in the face... it opens so fast
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  #6  
Old 04-27-2014, 12:27 AM
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Still struggling to get the speaker trim off my wagon without breaking it. Screws and Light off, just trying to get the darn thing off. Is there any trick to it? Pull straight back, down? Left Side then right side?

There's some sort of fastener or clip in there retaining it and not letting go of it.

Any tips?

Heat gun to soften glue?
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  #7  
Old 04-27-2014, 08:37 PM
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I pulled straight back to release the two top clips. Then the next hang up is on the sides. The plastic goes under the rubber window trim. So you have to pull gently to get it to pop out on both sides. That was also hard to get back under the rubber. I had to pry once again gently on the rubber while stuffing the plastic back under. Tedious to say the least.
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01 Golf TDI: 265k RIP 2/4/15
85 300TD: 233k- sold
84 300DT: 228k- sold
90 300SE: 148k-sold
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  #8  
Old 04-28-2014, 12:50 PM
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Just because somebody like me may find this post looking for some general guidance to the process. I posted in my project thread but this may help on a search.

Hatch struts are a little tedious but patience and some guidance through searches helped me. I bought the correct 8mm triple square from autozone to remove the bolt holding the one end of the strut. Basically you remove the rear plastic speaker cover/light housing. Thats the first challenge so you have to be careful with old plastic. But undo the screws, pop the light out, and slide it back an inch to release the top 2 catches. Then pull the sides out from the rubber window moldings. Gives you access to the triple square (12pt) bolt through a little hole in the headliner. I thought removing the speaker would give me access to the back but there is just the roof frame so leave speakers in place. My bolts where tight but not hard to release. Then you go to where the strut connects to the tailgate hinge. I pulled the little clip off the end of the pin with needle nose pliers, then used a phillips head and a hammer to drive the pin out (the pin has a divit in the end to drive it out). Now I was stuck trying to figure out how the heck the actual strut comes out????? Its tight. You have to open the hatch further then you think it can go. I released the pin on both struts then pushed up slowly with the top of my head (get a helper!) to open the hatch as tall as it can go. Then the strut can be pulled out towards the middle of the car when your looking at the opening. Install reversing the steps and you good to go.
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15 Jetta TDI:
01 Golf TDI: 265k RIP 2/4/15
85 300TD: 233k- sold
84 300DT: 228k- sold
90 300SE: 148k-sold
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  #9  
Old 04-28-2014, 02:40 PM
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Hatch Struts

Just completed this task today as well. The above write up is spot on accurate.

Additionally I noticed that the paint on the new Stabilus shocks was thick and not letting the bolts slide thru easily. I took some 320 grit sandpaper wrapped around a pencil and took some milimeters off the paint. The holes on the aft end of the strut (fork end labeled B) needed this. Sanded the bolts too. It all fit together much easier that way.

Also to position the shocks so they would line up with the bolt on the inside of the car I fabricated (read: bent) some aluminum strips that were aprox 3/4 inch wide to about 20" and wraped them in blue tape not to scratch the window seal. These held the struts up so the hole in them would match that with the one in the headliner. Wooden paintstirring sticks would work as good shims too.

Two People make this job much easier, and it only costs around 60$ with the new struts and ZXN Triple Square bit. But figuring you have a swear jar in your household at $0.25 a four letter word, I would say this task costs about 100$ in all

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