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#1
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1980 240D - fix, part, and/or scrap
I have an ugly, rusty, fairly broken 1980 240D that I bought for $1500 to limp me through last year including the toughest winter we've had in 100+ years.
The vehicle performed splendidly and managed to get me where I was going. Early this spring the harmonic balancer came loose and sheared off the dowel pins. The fit of the old balancer is extremely sloppy and the keyholes for the pins are deformed. I'm reticent to order another balancer just to see if a newer one will fit snugly on the old crankshaft because I fear that the end of the crank is not worth saving. So what would you do? Scavenge parts and call the scrap guy? Try to pull the motor? Is it worth it? Today I'm leaning toward pulling good parts and calling the scrap guys.
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1965 190D 1980 240D |
#2
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Rusty leads me to part it. Pick up the SD in the other fix/part post that's out in CA & fix that.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#3
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If you have the time and interest in parting it out you'll always get more money than scrapping it. So I'd do that.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
#4
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Well I have the room to store parts. I'll just need to buy a new set of shelves.
I'd like to pull the transmission and rear diff too. I'll have to figure out how to dispose of the body when I'm through. Will someone drag it out of my garage when it no longer rolls? I guess I could use some practical advice on parting out a 123. Maybe there's a thread already about that.
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1965 190D 1980 240D |
#5
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Get new balancer, use Loctite, fill dowel pin holes with epoxy and re-drill. A similar fix is very common on certain years of Miatas that throw harmonic balancers and damage crankshaft ends.
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#6
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Quote:
Is there anything online about performing this trick properly? I'm intrigued and my buddy will probably help me do the re-drill. What type of epoxy? Also, when you say "new", should I buy a new balancer or a used one?
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1965 190D 1980 240D |
#7
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Quote:
I'd probably use a slow-hardening (stronger) JB-Weld type epoxy to repair the holes and Loctite 242 or 243 (as recommended for the Miata repair) on the bolt threads holding the balancer on and between metal surfaces. |
#8
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Okay, I'm looking for a balancer now. Should I do the front seal while I'm in here?
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1965 190D 1980 240D |
#9
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Yes, anyone with a winch on there rollback can hook to it and drag it out. I have personally watched a driver hook a winch to a Detroit diesel generator and drag it up on his bed. The generator was probably 5-6K lbs and it came right up the slope. He chained it down and delivered it to the sandblaster for me.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#10
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Last car I scavenged down to the frame, I bolted a pair of 1,000 lbs castors to the underside of. If they are set at or near the tipping point of the frame, it is surprisingly easy to move the car around. When the scrapper comes, tell him he needs a tilt & load flatbed or 4-wheel dolly. He'll hook the winch to it, and the car won't have much choice but to go (try to salvage your castors).
If you are planning to scrap the car yourself, rent a flatbed trailer, tip the front of the car up onto it, use a come-along to pull the car forward as far as you can, then lift the back with a jack, get 3 guys lined up across the rear and give a good shove to get the castors onto the tailgate. Once the castors are up, you can roll the chassis forward. Jack the back up on the trailer, remove the castors, and drive away. Since the car is scrap at this point you don't need to be gentle with it, but you don't want to tear up your driveway. |
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