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  #1  
Old 04-28-2014, 11:52 AM
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1980 240D - fix, part, and/or scrap

I have an ugly, rusty, fairly broken 1980 240D that I bought for $1500 to limp me through last year including the toughest winter we've had in 100+ years.

The vehicle performed splendidly and managed to get me where I was going. Early this spring the harmonic balancer came loose and sheared off the dowel pins.

The fit of the old balancer is extremely sloppy and the keyholes for the pins are deformed.

I'm reticent to order another balancer just to see if a newer one will fit snugly on the old crankshaft because I fear that the end of the crank is not worth saving.

So what would you do? Scavenge parts and call the scrap guy? Try to pull the motor? Is it worth it?

Today I'm leaning toward pulling good parts and calling the scrap guys.

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Old 04-28-2014, 12:18 PM
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Rusty leads me to part it. Pick up the SD in the other fix/part post that's out in CA & fix that.
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  #3  
Old 04-28-2014, 12:23 PM
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If you have the time and interest in parting it out you'll always get more money than scrapping it. So I'd do that.
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:29 PM
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Well I have the room to store parts. I'll just need to buy a new set of shelves.

I'd like to pull the transmission and rear diff too. I'll have to figure out how to dispose of the body when I'm through. Will someone drag it out of my garage when it no longer rolls?

I guess I could use some practical advice on parting out a 123. Maybe there's a thread already about that.
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:58 PM
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Get new balancer, use Loctite, fill dowel pin holes with epoxy and re-drill. A similar fix is very common on certain years of Miatas that throw harmonic balancers and damage crankshaft ends.
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spdrun View Post
Get new balancer, use Loctite, fill dowel pin holes with epoxy and re-drill. A similar fix is very common on certain years of Miatas that throw harmonic balancers and damage crankshaft ends.
This is a possibility, how long would this buy me? It seems like I could get another year out of this thing if I did it right.

Is there anything online about performing this trick properly? I'm intrigued and my buddy will probably help me do the re-drill. What type of epoxy?

Also, when you say "new", should I buy a new balancer or a used one?
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrCherry View Post
This is a possibility, how long would this buy me? It seems like I could get another year out of this thing if I did it right.

Is there anything online about performing this trick properly? I'm intrigued and my buddy will probably help me do the re-drill. What type of epoxy?

Also, when you say "new", should I buy a new balancer or a used one?
Buy a good balancer, new or used probably doesn't matter. I've heard of Miatas going years with this type of repair.

I'd probably use a slow-hardening (stronger) JB-Weld type epoxy to repair the holes and Loctite 242 or 243 (as recommended for the Miata repair) on the bolt threads holding the balancer on and between metal surfaces.
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:10 PM
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Okay, I'm looking for a balancer now. Should I do the front seal while I'm in here?
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  #9  
Old 04-30-2014, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrCherry View Post



Will someone drag it out of my garage when it no longer rolls?

I guess I could use some practical advice on parting out a 123.

Yes, anyone with a winch on there rollback can hook to it and drag it out. I have personally watched a driver hook a winch to a Detroit diesel generator and drag it up on his bed. The generator was probably 5-6K lbs and it came right up the slope. He chained it down and delivered it to the sandblaster for me.
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  #10  
Old 04-30-2014, 01:37 PM
1981 240D The Slowmobile
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrCherry View Post
Will someone drag it out of my garage when it no longer rolls?
Last car I scavenged down to the frame, I bolted a pair of 1,000 lbs castors to the underside of. If they are set at or near the tipping point of the frame, it is surprisingly easy to move the car around. When the scrapper comes, tell him he needs a tilt & load flatbed or 4-wheel dolly. He'll hook the winch to it, and the car won't have much choice but to go (try to salvage your castors).

If you are planning to scrap the car yourself, rent a flatbed trailer, tip the front of the car up onto it, use a come-along to pull the car forward as far as you can, then lift the back with a jack, get 3 guys lined up across the rear and give a good shove to get the castors onto the tailgate. Once the castors are up, you can roll the chassis forward. Jack the back up on the trailer, remove the castors, and drive away.

Since the car is scrap at this point you don't need to be gentle with it, but you don't want to tear up your driveway.

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