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  #16  
Old 05-11-2014, 05:34 PM
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  #17  
Old 07-30-2014, 01:17 PM
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I'm looking for a good place to install an Amsoil bypass oil filter system. I did have it plumbed into the oil gauge line (intake), outtake went into a special custom installed steel line into the oil pan. I was concerned about road hazards possibly tearing the oil pan steel line from the oil pan causing a massive loss of oil. So.....I removed everything and installed a new oil pan and a new oil gauge line (connects to the instrument panel oil gauge).

A member here (can't remember who) installed an Amsoil bypass oil fiter system plumbed into the oil cooler lines. Question; do you think there is enough oil flow pressure through the oil cooler lines to adequately feed an Amsoil bypass oil filter? Using your steel line approach could be a good way to do this.......
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  #18  
Old 07-30-2014, 03:26 PM
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If you are interested in AN fittings without the "bling" factor that most of the racer shops are pushing, you can also buy them as JIC fittings. The AN spec was a slightly tighter tolerance standardization based off of JIC, which is primarily used for hydraulic lines.

In my fuel replumbing on my SEC, I've been using steel and stainless steel JIC fittings and "low" pressure hydraulic hose rated at 1500 psi just because I didn't want to pay dealer cost on hoses, and also didn't want to be gaudy with all the braid covered hoses and anodized glittering fittings.
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  #19  
Old 07-30-2014, 03:56 PM
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oil cooler line replacement

Nice informative writeup mach4 looks very clean. So you have to take oil cooler off to modify and lines from filter have to be taken off to braze new ends on. What I did was follow cool jays advice and cut off old lines and double clamped new parker hoses on w/o haveing to remove anything. I am very satisfied with outcome is totally dry and made everything a lot cleaner in engine compartment. I know your fix is better but is more time consuming and a little more costly thanks for excellant writeup.
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  #20  
Old 07-30-2014, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by yuke View Post
So you have to take oil cooler off to modify and lines from filter have to be taken off to braze new ends on.
That's correct. The oil cooler comes off with two bolts, so that's easy. The cooler lines need to come off for brazing...a little more work, but not bad. You'll probably be fine with the hose clamp solution. I wanted to do it with maximum reliability and in a way that future repairs could be done just by sourcing new hose. The hose ends are reusable.
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  #21  
Old 07-30-2014, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post
I'm looking for a good place to install an Amsoil bypass oil filter system. I did have it plumbed into the oil gauge line (intake), outtake went into a special custom installed steel line into the oil pan. I was concerned about road hazards possibly tearing the oil pan steel line from the oil pan causing a massive loss of oil. So.....I removed everything and installed a new oil pan and a new oil gauge line (connects to the instrument panel oil gauge).

A member here (can't remember who) installed an Amsoil bypass oil fiter system plumbed into the oil cooler lines. Question; do you think there is enough oil flow pressure through the oil cooler lines to adequately feed an Amsoil bypass oil filter? Using your steel line approach could be a good way to do this.......
If I were going to implement a bypass filter system, I think I'd take the intake off the turbo oil feed line with an appropriately sized restrictor or orifice, probably the same size as the turbo orifice would work. I'd put the return to the top of the upper oil pan, or tap into the turbo return line which dumps into the upper pan. That gives you flow and pressure adequate for a good bypass system.
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  #22  
Old 07-31-2014, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Cejpat View Post
i don't always rate a thread "EXCELLENT" ... but this is one of them
I'll second that! does anyone know what the metric tread size is on the oil cooler and engine ends of the existing oil cooler lines. I just found a cool source for some parts that might make this pretty easy, they look like M18x1.5 or M20x1.5.
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  #23  
Old 07-31-2014, 05:12 AM
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This i s really neat. Love it. I wish I had a bit of that done on one previous merc. The fitting were totally welded/ corroded. I could unscrew them. Even with a jack under the spanner, it was just lifting the car but the connector was not bulging I end up putting some rubber pipes and this cause a major leak as it split and this killed the engine
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  #24  
Old 07-31-2014, 11:04 AM
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M22x1.5 on a 84 300d is all I could find on the web for sizing. If that is correct it should be pretty easy to get this done. The chinese tractors imported more and more frequently use metric fittings so you can buy JIC to metric fittings. JIC Male x DIN Metric Female Swivel 90°

and then use standard hydraulic lines. I might give this a try if anyone can verify the metric thread size. It would make future line changes very easy.
Thanks,
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  #25  
Old 07-31-2014, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by snorider View Post
M22x1.5 on a 84 300d is all I could find on the web for sizing. If that is correct it should be pretty easy to get this done. The chinese tractors imported more and more frequently use metric fittings so you can buy JIC to metric fittings. JIC Male x DIN Metric Female Swivel 90°

and then use standard hydraulic lines. I might give this a try if anyone can verify the metric thread size. It would make future line changes very easy.
That looks promising. Probably worth ordering one and just testing it. The one thing that makes me think it might not work is this description

This adapter includes a Buna-N rubber O-ring on the cone seat of DIN Metric Female Swivel fitting.

Clearly the MB fitting does not use an O-ring so it might be different.

Getting to an AN (JIC) fitting on the oil cooler would open up this solution to a lot more people that are reluctant to modify their oil cooler, or don't have to tools to do so.
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  #26  
Old 07-31-2014, 04:52 PM
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Then perhaps something like this? Male JIC x Female Metric Face Seal (Solid)

and then a ninety crimped on the hose. Hydraulic Hose Fittings | JIC 37° Female Swivel 90° Tube Elbow

I took a look at some videos on the subject and it looks like the internal cone of the metric swivel fittings


match the flair angle of the male M22x1.5 fittings on the filter housing and oil cooler.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI5Pw8nYevQ#t=247

The o ring looks like it sits behind the cone? against the "nut" for lack of a better term

Last edited by snorider; 07-31-2014 at 05:55 PM.
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  #27  
Old 07-31-2014, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by snorider View Post
Then perhaps something like this? Male JIC x Female Metric Face Seal (Solid)

and then a ninety crimped on the hose. Hydraulic Hose Fittings | JIC 37° Female Swivel 90° Tube Elbow
That would appear to work...unless the MB fitting uses a different flare angle or something like that. I did confirm that the threads are 1.5
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  #28  
Old 07-31-2014, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post
I'm looking for a good place to install an Amsoil bypass oil filter system. I did have it plumbed into the oil gauge line (intake), outtake went into a special custom installed steel line into the oil pan. I was concerned about road hazards possibly tearing the oil pan steel line from the oil pan causing a massive loss of oil. So.....I removed everything and installed a new oil pan and a new oil gauge line (connects to the instrument panel oil gauge).

A member here (can't remember who) installed an Amsoil bypass oil fiter system plumbed into the oil cooler lines. Question; do you think there is enough oil flow pressure through the oil cooler lines to adequately feed an Amsoil bypass oil filter? Using your steel line approach could be a good way to do this.......
In theory the Oil Pressure Lines do not get flow until the Thermostat in the Oil Filter Housing opens up.
As far as the Oil pressure goes the Oil in the Oil Cooler Lines is unfiltered Oil from the Crank Case that flows back into the Oil Filter Housing to be filtered. So there should be no problem with enough Oil Pressure once the Oil gets hot enought to open the Thermstat.

I am not sure what the ID of the Oil Cooler Hoses on other Models so I cannot comment on that. But, there are Metric sized Hose Jags and Brass T Pieces that the Jags could be screwed into.
That imposes 2 new joints in the Hose that need to be clamped. Cut out a section of Hose and insert the Fitting between them. Hopefully the wight of the Fitting vibrating on the Hose will not cause issues.

If you are going to do that if you can pic the Hose that has the Cooled Oil going back to the Oil Filter. I think the Hot Oil Hose is that one that leaks as it gets older.
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  #29  
Old 07-31-2014, 07:38 PM
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The Hose ends and the inside of the Nipples have a rounded contour.
Attached Thumbnails
Converting Oil Cooler Lines To AN Stainless Braided Hose-cohline-bent-tube-ball-nose-acorn-end-only-jul-14.jpg  
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  #30  
Old 07-31-2014, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
The Hose ends and the inside of the Nipples have a rounded contour.
HUMM? I wonder if the din metric will work looks a bit funky. The parts to go the metric to english route are about 250$ with shipping so the peach parts price is looking better and better. I did find a place that makes all metric hydraulic lines but If the fitting is non standard I would be leary ordering them. This is a really cool thread I see several sub 100$ w123 oil coolers on ebay...humm.
Michael

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