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  #31  
Old 07-31-2014, 10:27 PM
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My AN fittings and stainless braided hose solution cost about $ 115

2 steel bung AN-10 fittings $15
Brazing $20
Hose $30
AN10 fittings $40
1/2 to AN10 90 degree fittings $10

Prices may have changed a bit, but these are close.

Tools required are 3/4" step drill and 1/2NPT tap available at HF

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  #32  
Old 07-31-2014, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach4 View Post
If I were going to implement a bypass filter system, I think I'd take the intake off the turbo oil feed line with an appropriately sized restrictor or orifice, probably the same size as the turbo orifice would work. I'd put the return to the top of the upper oil pan, or tap into the turbo return line which dumps into the upper pan. That gives you flow and pressure adequate for a good bypass system.
Is it possible that this solution might bleed too much oil from the turbocharger leaving it with too little lubrication? I don't have much knowledge about how the oils flows in these engines to know for sure.

Last edited by HuskyMan; 08-01-2014 at 11:44 AM.
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  #33  
Old 08-14-2014, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post
Is it possible that this solution might bleed too much oil from the turbocharger leaving it with too little lubrication? I don't have much knowledge about how the oils flows in these engines to know for sure.
ForcedInjection on another Forum said there is 2mm restriction in the Turbo Oil Pressure Line (on 617.952 Engines). I think it is built into the Flange that Bolts onto the Turbo.
That mean that the Oil Flow is restricted.

A bypass Oil Filter also has a restricted flow through about a 1/16" hole.

But, with out testing it is difficult to guess if the Turbo would be starved for Oil or not if you connected the bypass Oil filter line there.
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  #34  
Old 11-03-2014, 03:25 PM
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This modification with AN-10 fittings works very well. Be advised that the stock Mercedes "question mark" shaped fittings at the oil cooler are not identical. The upper fitting (on the left in the included photo) is larger. With the AN-10 fitting/hose attached, it is uncomfortable close to power steering pump.

I had some extra used oiler cooler hoses from the local PickNPull, so I used the smaller oil cooler fitting from the lower hose from my spare. There is now plenty of clearance between the power steering pump and the oil cooler for the upper steel braid line. AN-10 fittings use the same wrench size as the oil cooler fittings (27 mm). These are robust hoses. I don't foresee them failing. But if there ever is a problem then my steel braided hoses are in the trunk with my emergency Delo stash.
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  #35  
Old 11-03-2014, 03:28 PM
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One more..
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  #36  
Old 11-03-2014, 03:29 PM
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And the last one..
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  #37  
Old 11-06-2014, 02:15 AM
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Interesting... I never noticed that, but you're right.
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  #38  
Old 02-17-2015, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
I don't think there's any may be about it!

I've just spent ages trying to find some metric T pieces - pain in the arse...
Seriously: If you are so concerned about maintaining metric standards on your car, why not get some mild steel and remake metric fittings on a lathe?

I have done this countless times, just not in this case.

I'm sure you must be able to find a lathe someplace, right?
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  #39  
Old 02-17-2015, 11:14 AM
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Hey mach 4, what's the spec of your braided hoses? What type of hose under the braid, type of fittings used? Did you buy pre made or made them yourself?

Good tip using a step drill. Was there a danger of it being too long, drilling through the oil cooler?

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  #40  
Old 02-17-2015, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
Hey mach 4, what's the spec of your braided hoses? What type of hose under the braid, type of fittings used? Did you buy pre made or made them yourself?

Good tip using a step drill. Was there a danger of it being too long, drilling through the oil cooler?
The hose specs can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but they are high pressure, high temperature oil hose. It's been so long I don't remember the exact specs. The fittings are standard AN -10 fittings. Most AN fittings are Red and Blue, but I wanted something a bit less gaudy so got nickel-tone ones. The fittings are designed to be made up by the user and are re-usable. No danger of drilling through the oil cooler with the 3/4" step drill (at least if using a drill press).

The max pressure you'll see in the hoses is around 100# because that's where the pressure relief valve kicks in. I think the pressure is actually much lower as there's no restrictor in the cooler circuit, the lines are good size and the flow relatively low. If I had to hazard a guess, it's probably 15#. The highest temp I've seen to date measured on the intake (higher temp side) of the cooler in my engine instrumentation project is 195 and typical is 150-ish.

EDIT: While I sourced my hose on dBay from a long forgotten supplier, I would not be comfortable recommending anything other than a US manufactured, name-brand product, certified for aircraft applications. One worth considering would be Aeroquip. Here are some data gleaned from the net

Quote:
Aeroquip FCA1010 AQP -10AN Stainless Steel Braided Hose

Hose is size -10, has .56 inch inside diameter, .80 inch outside diameter, and a maximum operating pressure of 1000 PSI

Constructed from an AQP elastomer inner tube, with partial stainless steel wire inner braid and a full stainless steel outer braid reinforcement, it is easy to see why AQP Racing Hose is Aeroquip Performance Product's most popular racing hose. It is compatible with petroleum and synthetic lubricants, hydrocarbon fuels, and liquid engine coolants. It operates at higher temperatures for longer periods, and is rated at -45 to +300 degrees Fahrenheit Light and flexible, it is easy to work with, and its stainless steel cover will ensure long-lasting durability. The elastomer inner tube is resistant to oxidation, the effects of ozone, and other various agents present in the air. Changes in physical properties due to shelf aging are nonexistent.
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Last edited by mach4; 02-17-2015 at 12:47 PM.
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  #41  
Old 02-17-2015, 01:15 PM
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If the oil cooler line pressure is relatively low, why go through the trouble of drilling and brazing for JIC or AN fittings? Sure they look nice and all that but I'd feel comfortable with just a good quality hose that's rated for temp and pressure and engine oil and double clamping it with quality clamps.

Aren't those red and blue "racing" AN fittings made of aluminum? I'd stay away from those if so.
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  #42  
Old 02-17-2015, 01:26 PM
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Mine are aluminum...no problems.

Now I'll stipulate that I'm not in the rust belt, so your mileage may vary.
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  #43  
Old 02-17-2015, 01:52 PM
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Mine are aluminum...no problems.

Now I'll stipulate that I'm not in the rust belt, so your mileage may vary.
Which ones? On the braided hose ends?

The only reason for aluminum is to save weight, everything else is a negative IMO. Would an aluminum AN fitting mated to a steel AN fitting be more prone to undo themselves due to different rates of expansion /contraction from temperature cycling?
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  #44  
Old 02-17-2015, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
Which ones? On the braided hose ends?

The only reason for aluminum is to save weight, everything else is a negative IMO. Would an aluminum AN fitting mated to a steel AN fitting be more prone to undo themselves due to different rates of expansion /contraction from temperature cycling?
In my application, the 90 degree NPT-AN10 fittings on the oil cooler are steel as are the weld on fittings on the cooler hard lines, while the hose fittings are anodized aluminum.

I don't think there is any more chance of loosening than the original fittings which are also steel and aluminum. If anything I would think that they would be more secure due to potential for dissimilar metal corrosion (think of all the stories of people buggering up the aluminum cooler fittings trying to get the hoses off - not a problem I've ever seen in this part of the world though).
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  #45  
Old 02-17-2015, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
If the oil cooler line pressure is relatively low, why go through the trouble of drilling and brazing for JIC or AN fittings? Sure they look nice and all that but I'd feel comfortable with just a good quality hose that's rated for temp and pressure and engine oil and double clamping it with quality clamps.

Aren't those red and blue "racing" AN fittings made of aluminum? I'd stay away from those if so.
Simply personal preference and because it is "cool".

For those are willing to remove the complete Hoses and want something as secure as the Factory crimped Ferrell they can use Oetiker type Clamps.

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