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Converting Oil Cooler Lines To AN Stainless Braided Hose
A common and recurring question on the forums has to do with leaky or aging factory oil cooler hoses. Aftermarket hoses can be a problem due to quality and changing lines can be a pain. The idea of using aircraft quality AN fittings and stainless braided hose has been documented in various places on the forum, but not all in one place. This post rectifies the situation.
Here is how to make the conversion, if desired. The oil cooler needs to be converted to an AN fitting as do the hard lines coming from the oil filter. The first question is what size hose to use. I determined that the -10 size is an almost perfect one for this application based on the following research data. There are two potential ways to modify the oil cooler end of the line to use the AN fittings. The first method is to use the standard metric fitting from the stock hose and braze on a -10 AN fitting. This is the easiest and most straightforward method, but the downside is that the hose length is reduced, resulting in a tighter radius and more stress on the fitting. In addition, there is a longer effective lever on the fitting that could cause a problem. Here is how that strategy might look. I rejected this solution, opting instead to modify the cooler to take a 90 degree fitting which is 1/2NPT on one end and -10 AN on the other. It should be clear how much cleaner the 90 degree adapter is. To use the 90 degree adapter, the cooler must be modified to take a 1/2NPT fitting. To do this it is necessary to cut off the old fitting and drill out the stock port to the size needed to tap for 1/2 NPT. This is easily done using a 3/4" step drill. (Note: do not attempt to use a standard twist drill for this operation as it will grab and likely damage the cooler) A common question is whether there is enough "meat" to handle the fitting. The answer is definitely yes - in fact the Mercedes repair kit for stripped fittings also calls for drilling out this fitting in the same manner and replacing it with a screw-in adapter. Then carefully tap the fitting with a 1/2NPT tap Test the fitting to make sure it fits properly The next step is to modify the hard lines from the oil cooler. Just cut off the barb portion of the line and braze on -10 steel bungs. Note: I've removed the stock R4 Harrison compressor and bracket, so I've used a custom support bracket for the hard lines so this may be different from your own setup. Then just make up the hoses... ...and install. There is plenty of clearance A question that occasionally comes up has to do with possible flow restriction using a 90 degree fitting. It turns out that the flow is actually quite low and any potential restriction is likely offset by the slightly larger -10 hose and fitting ID. Making up AN hoses can be done with hand tools and is extremely simple. There are countless links on the net for how to assemble braided steel hoses using AN fittings. Here is one to start with - How to Assemble Braided-steel Hoses Sources for materials are numerous. I got mine by shopping on eBay, but hot rod shops, off road shops and other custom automotive suppliers are also good. I don't have the expertise or tools to braze so I used a local radiator/air conditioning shop to do the brazing. It was very reasonable. The beauty of using this system is that replacing a hose is a DIY job and there is no need to source new fittings as the fittings are designed to be reusable. While this howto is focused on 617 MB engines the basic techniques should be able to be adapted to other engines as well. Hope this helps for those contemplating a custom setup for oil cooler lines.
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I will do this on my '85 soon, as the upper hose is weeping. Thanks for sharing, super informative.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
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Question
are the hard lines steel or aluminum? Also, did you use any sealant on the threads of the elbow were it goes into the oil cooler? Thanks
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I used Teflon tape on the threads of the 90 fitting where it went into the cooler - this is upstream of the filter so there is no danger of a loose strand clogging an oil galley.
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Great stuff mach4
I just hate the thought of mixing metric with non though - I've been trying to find a non AN metric alternative for a long time now and I keep on coming up with zip. I must be using the wrong search terms - all I want is a cheaper alternative to the bloody expensive fuel line on my W201...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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Is the hose you're looking for high pressure FI hose or low pressure diesel hose?
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Fancy work
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wow.
nice work mach. holy poop. wow this forum is amazing. but you guys all knew this already. |
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I just need a cheaper flexible hose solution - the local hydraulic shops and tractor people get all in a bunch about the strange Mercedes parts and the dealer wants about 400 euros for about 50cm of flexible pipes and connectors. I've decided not to pay that. I have found a place on ebay that sells metric straight converters to AN fittings so I could rig something up but I'd rather have an all metric system on a metric car.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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Sounds like maybe you're letting a philosophical preference stand in the way of an economical solution
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Then he must also convert the AC system from SAE to metric lol.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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I've heard mention of this thing called AC - you'll have to enlighten me.
{I've never owned a car with electric windows}
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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I've just spent ages trying to find some metric T pieces - pain in the arse...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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You are in the right place for all information A/C related. Just do a search, and you will find everything you need to know. A/C is a very COOL invention!
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
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i don't always rate a thread "EXCELLENT" ... but this is one of them
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