Has anyone else made this DIY rear slot nut tool?
 

Needed to remove a rear wheel bearing.

The link to the homemade tools site is:
Homemade Slot Nut Socket

There is a link there to the original PP thread.

Probably qualifies as the least detailed DIY in existence.... :P

That website is great! Thanks.

Yes, I wish I could do stuff like some of those guys do just for giggles.

I have my reservations making a tool for this job. Now I'm not saying it isn't worth giving it a go if you can do it but I do think you need to be realistic in your expectations...

...trying to tighten those sodding slotted nuts on W114/W115/W123/126(1st gen) trailing arm wheel bearings is in my opinion not an easy (as in physically easy) job to do. To crush a new crush washer by tightening one of those slotted nuts is not trivial - a similar crush washer exists on differential pinion shafts. When struggling with a differential pinion bearing crush washer I used a hydraulic press to help it along and measured 7 metric tons =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3236492-post43.html

To remove the slotted nut I recommend the following method =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2474546-post17.html

That tool is for rental.

The issue with rental might be getting it across the border. You would know more about that than I.

My thinking is that an impact socket might be better for modification. Harder to modify but more durable.

I wonder if KTC tools would export to Canada?
Mercedes Benz Tools | KTC Auto Tools distribute a full line of Specialty Tools

They most certainly do. I greatly appreciate you hooking me up on that. I never came across them in the search (was using the OE part number).

I will give it some thought. I am still on the fence on whether this is one DIY I should be diving into.

Tks

I changed the rear wheel bearing and seals on mine and learned a few things. Two important things really stand out.

Use hardened bolts (class 10.9 if you can get them but 8.8 at a minimum) to replace the wheel bolts when applying torque to the hub.

Use a long bar (6 foot is best) to tighten to tolerances. Anything less will be futile. (I used a homemade tool with a jack handle over it. Similar to the holding tool for universal flange shown here: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/Chassis/35-530.pdf I used 5/16" bar stock and cut it for the side piece with three bolts) If you want a photo, I will have to learn how to attach it to a post or just e-mail in a PM.

The problem I ran into was getting the bar at a right angle to the hub. If it isn't, the tools tend to slip off with the pressure needed to get it tight enough.

It isn't that difficult if you have these items in advance.

True but I tend to leave the tool rental thing alone as for most tools (the larger ones I have looked at in the past anyway) the cost of shipping them with delivery confirmation back and forth from Canada is getting up to 40 percent the price of the tool, before the rental is figured in.

For this small thing, however, it would be cost effective for sure.

Thanks.