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  #31  
Old 05-16-2014, 10:50 AM
Diesel Preferred
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,788
My advice: Change the engine oil to Mobil 1 0w-40, drive it for several thousand miles AND report back.

Rebuilding the delivery valves can't hurt. Checking the injection pump timing can't hurt. Pulling the injectors and having them tested can't hurt.

Many many things you can try...

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Last edited by Maxbumpo; 05-16-2014 at 03:02 PM. Reason: corrected "are" to read "and"
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  #32  
Old 05-16-2014, 12:00 PM
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Cruisin on Electric Ave.
 
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Location: La Conner, WA
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I just redid the delivery valve seals on my SDL. It took almost 300 miles for the injector clacking to die out.

-J
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.
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  #33  
Old 05-16-2014, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
Please please please do not pull the head. Nothing you have found indicates that pulling the head is required.
Believe me, I am fighting that as hard as I can.

Just placed the order for everything I need to pull the vacuum pump and IP. It's work that has to be done and may solve the issue.

I had one mechanic that works on big diesels tell me that if it was a rod the engine would be toast by now. Loosing the knock by pulling the IM and having it return after the IM was replaced has me scratching my head. It keeps bringing me back to some kind of full issue.

I also own a '82 240D that wore out somewhere north of 400,000 miles. It never gave me a lick of trouble. This one is really making me step up the learning curve.

Need to set up for some video that I will post a little later.
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  #34  
Old 05-16-2014, 03:04 PM
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Location: Charleston SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
I just redid the delivery valve seals on my SDL. It took almost 300 miles for the injector clacking to die out.
Did you also change the springs inside each DV? I've heard some complain that changing the springs will increase the noise of combustion. I changed them on my '87 wagon, didn't make any difference.
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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #35  
Old 05-16-2014, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by precision32 View Post
Here is a video of the engine after 15 minutes run time.
I don't see any link?
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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #36  
Old 05-16-2014, 03:05 PM
compu_85's Avatar
Cruisin on Electric Ave.
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: La Conner, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
Did you also change the springs inside each DV? I've heard some complain that changing the springs will increase the noise of combustion. I changed them on my '87 wagon, didn't make any difference.
I got new springs but didn't install them as none of the originals were broken / worn... they only have ~60,000 miles on them.

-J
__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.
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  #37  
Old 05-16-2014, 03:11 PM
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Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,788
When I replace the DV springs on my '87 wagon, the old were shorter than the new. I assume they were tired and had lost some of their strength.
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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #38  
Old 05-16-2014, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
I don't see any link?
Having an issue posting the video. Search did not help me find the answer. Is there a FAQ on this?
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  #39  
Old 05-16-2014, 03:20 PM
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Lets see if this works.

http://http://s776.photobucket.com/user/Precision32/media/350SDL-HOT.mp4.html
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  #40  
Old 05-16-2014, 03:25 PM
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There is a video forum way down on the main page.

I don't think its a simple task to accomplish that here. People do it, but they are mostly magicians and such.

Drop a link here or post the video in the video forum then link to it here.
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  #41  
Old 05-19-2014, 05:28 PM
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bump
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  #42  
Old 05-20-2014, 09:44 AM
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Location: Roanoke, VA
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I've done 5 3.5L to 3.0L swaps in the W126 chassis. They're cake easy. My record is 9 hours to pull both with trans separate, and reinstall into the target car. I have one 3.0L left. If you end up needing it, just let me know.

I'm in VA, so may be too far away from you...

Quote:
Originally Posted by precision32 View Post
Well I'm done for the night. Can't get back to it till Sunday.

Next move is to pull the cam. If the engine is bad it has to come off anyway. It's about the only thing left that I can think of to do short of opening up the engine. I have new heat shields coming for the injectors and have a new lifter in hand to replace the one I suspect. There is no noise coming off the front of the engine. Air pump and serpentine belt are not the source of the noise.

If it is a bent rod it has only run maybe 20 miles to limp it home so hopefully the engine is not toast.

Again I thank you all for sharing your knowledge. I think the car is worth the time and effort. The body is in great shape and there is not many of these on the road around here. I only have 3K in it so I think even with having to rebuild the engine it's worth it.
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1987 300SDL #1, 1987 300SDL #2, 1980 240D, 1982 300SD, 1994 S350, 1990 350SDL, 1991 350SD, 1985 300D, 2005 E320CDI

Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D
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  #43  
Old 05-28-2014, 02:19 AM
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Well the story gets more interesting. The head on the engine is a #14 casting. From the info I can glean from the net, this is the worse head out there. I believe this head was used on the 3.0L engines. Is this correct?

After pressure cleaning the engine I note fresh oil coming from the two large screw plugs in the head on the drivers side of the head. I also note oil in two tapped holes that hold the intake to the head at the #3 and #4 intake ports.

I'm also getting oil coming out of the turbo-charger as the engine rpms come up.

Last edited by precision32; 05-28-2014 at 04:06 AM.
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  #44  
Old 05-28-2014, 08:51 AM
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Location: Charleston SC
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You need a new (or rebuilt) turbocharger. You've got a couple oil leaks at the two large screw plugs on the driver's side of the head. I wouldn't worry about the oil in the tapped holes for the intake manifold.

Fix those (or not), drive the car and enjoy it. I'll bet that the engine tick resolves itself.
__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #45  
Old 05-28-2014, 09:35 PM
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Cranked and ran the engine some this afternoon. I opened up each fuel inlet to each injector one at a time. As I did this I increased the RPMs to see if it made any difference in the sound of the engine. I have the intake off the engine which takes the turbo out of the equation. None of this seemed to make any difference in the knock.

At one point I revved up the RPMs and the engine backfired out of the #4 intake port. I got peppered with small bits of something but was unable to catch any of them.

The turbo is leaking oil into the intake. As the RPMs come up I can see it at the discharge connection to the intake cross over pipe fitting. Could this oil have caused a carbon build up that creaking the noise I'm getting?

Where is the best place to get a rebuild kit for the Garret T3 turbo?

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