On the S-10, should I pull the ALDA? Remember this is race only '85 617 with a T04 compressor side on the turbo (about 1 ATM boost and about twice the volume of stock) and 315 nozzles in the injectors. Not worried about the smoothness, etc. as most operation will be at idle (in the staging lanes) or WOT on the track. The track is about 900 ft. above sea level and we're about 18 feet here so I'm not too worried about elevation. Also remember that the S-10 now has a 4 speed manual if that plays into your equation.

Please give your reasoning. I'm trying to understand the pros and cons, not questioning anyone's input.

Thanks

Dan

Unless your track has a rule about excessive diesel smoke, you may as well pull the ALDA. You are running an EGT gauge, right?

__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

Yep, I have the Auber EGT front and center on the dash. No rule on Diesel smoke (at least not yet!).

I'm curious about your reasons.

Dan

I would say to leave it, and adjust it as necessary. Why over fuel it? If it will be a idle or WOT and not much in between, just adjusting it to maximize it's capabilities makes the most sense. Removing the ALDA is essentially the same as backing the adjustment screw all the way out anyway, so why make a hole in the top of the IP for dust and moisture to get in and/or oil to get out? I never have understood why anyone would want to remove the ALDA rather than just adjust it.....Rich

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

You may want to run a few test runs, or use a dyno, to determine which set-up produces the most power. Over-fueling may cause reduced combustion temperatures and less power, so you need to find that balance point.

It is also part of the safety circuit to protect the engine in the event it is over-boosted (if you have included the over-boost cut-out valve).

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Reason for pulling it: Full fuel immediately upon flooring the pedal. While it's possible to get so much fuel into a diesel engine that it might actually make less power, I don't think that's going to happen with the OP's setup.

__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.