If you Wait this could be you ,the key would not turn at all after trying every trick in the book ,I had to drop the steering wheel ,1 hr drilling out the steering lock button,shopped around for parts ,$218. for parts ,2 hrs in traffic going to get parts. 1day wasted.If you have a sticking ignition key Ill bet this will soon be in your near future ,the alternative is to simply replace the key and tumbler which takes 10 minutes tops. Theirs info about this Here on Peachparts ,also a video on ************** was informative but no really answer for exactly how to pull out the ignition device once the key is non functioning .I found Diesel Giant to have the answer, a VERY good pictorial write up which helped my through the details ,if the key does not turn your screwed because you will not be able to open up the collar which holds the ign. tumbler and the whole piece will not release its pin from the steering column (drilling is the only way).My purchase was for the tumbler and key was $31 and then the ignition assembly at $187.Youll need the collar at another $45 but Ill do that purchase later down the road.I look back on how this very well could have been a towing charge included in the mess but fortunatly I was in my own driveway .

Concerning the Towing Charge; being a Member of one of the Auto Clubs or having Insurance that includs the Towing can take care of that. I had to do when I got Married as My Wife is not going to be able to deal with and on the Road fixes.
It has also been helpful to Me.

I had the Clutch Cable Break on My Volvo that has an Manual Transmission. No on the Road fix for that especially at 10:00 PM. Already was a Member of an Auto Club was towed home.

People have not had good luck with the Aftermarket Key and Tumblers.

I agree with changing the Steering Colum Lock Assembly. I think at about 30 Years Old something inside is just waiting to break as mine did. Mine actually broke in 2 places.

With the New Steering Colum Lock Assembly you get a New Ignition Switch and a new Vacuum Switch.
The Ignition Switch on Mine was still working but the Contact Point in one of the positons on one side was almost entirly burnt off so it did not have long to go.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

What were your symptoms before you had to drill?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

No movement of the key to answer your question.
The steps of pulling the wire boot off was not mentioned ,vise grips were needed, also when you do this PROJECT note that all the 7 wires come off like a magician pulling flowers out of a hat, you will need to read the following wiring steps inside the cap for correct positions of the wires on a 83 300d .AS FOLLOWS
15r fuse 4 GRN/RED WIRE
50 VI/WT
30 RED
15X RD/YL
30 RED
15 RED /BLK
P30 GRN/WT
THIS IS CORRECT FOR ALOT OF THE 81-85 300D ,CD ,TD CARS
NOTE : when you replace this cap over these wires remember it does not hold a firm position over the wires anymore ,a good stretch of duct tape did the trick.The instrument cluster will also need to be pulled out of the way,it can be put to the side after releasing the oil line ,the speedo cable can be left on and has some slack to move out of the way ,this is due to the secondary bolts that hold the steering column for dropping to give access to remove the ignistion assembly,the other 2 bolts are underneath the dash and much easier to get too.If you have the tools and get started with all the parts it is about a 2 to 3 hr job ,alot of it is the drilling .Its important to remember to sleeve the collar lock piece before you get started forward in putting everything together ,this holds the assembly in its position ,it locks and works just like a bicycle seat clamp,if you forget it like I did you havent lost anything ,this is realized when you go to put your key in and notice the looseness of the assembly.

Where exactly did you drill? Any pics? I have a good used collar if you don' t want to pay dealer $45.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Its easier to see what Im talking about if you look at the ignition assembly ,the part that sleeves down into a tube on the steering column has a pin that pushes in and out ,well this little guy wont push in if you are unable to have the key turn to the auxillary position ,thus the need to drill this guy out to allow for removal.Another part of pulling the steering column down to access the IA is to unbolt the dash on the lower driver corner ,in doing this it gives you just enough slack to pull down the sTEERING Column.These details are well laid out w/ pics on Diesel Giants write up.

The collar I think Ill ride without it for right now ,I looked closely at the new parts and the tumbler ,this piece if locked in to place would give you no access to the release stub,a misaligned at the factory , steps I was trying to avoid for the above reasons,non access to the tumbler part.

You dont happen to have the wiring sequence for a 79 300d Ign Switch (8 point).Replaced mine, now nothing electrical works- no ac blower no dash indicators ,gauges(fuel/temp), directional sigs, radio&antenna motor. Im thinking some wire in the spaghetti factory came loose, and I need a picture or a diagram that an idiot can read. Thanks

Believe it or not, I found the best wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual and they have them for what looks like every flavour of w123 sold in various markets. In the back of the book.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

If you have the time to wait you can get a used Haynes Manual on eBay. No point in paying the full price for one. Also some large Libraries sometimes have them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel