OK. That's about where I'm at too.

Maybe my boost isn't getting to the intake like was suggested by another poster.

If it stops raining today I'll get that checked out.

while you are waiting for it to quit raining, check out:

startekinfo.com, click on MB workshop resources on the left, page through about 3 pages to Model 124 Service Library.

w124-zone.com, it will make you register for free, but there is another copy of the manuals here. This one has a better scan of the wiring diagrams than the official MB site.

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Ok. I just took off the line and saw sludge in the nipple but not much in the vacuum line to the solenoid.

I went ahead and took off the lines to the solenoid and took out the solenoid too.

I sprayed brake cleaner through it. Whatever sludge was in there is now gone.

I also took off the switch on the manifold and it was just about sludged over.

The opening was only about 15% clear.

I cleaned it out too.

I reinstalled and took the car out.

It seems like I have more get up and also seems I can hear the turbo doing more work.

I did the 0-60 time two or three times and it was consistently around 15 seconds flat.

That sounds about right to me based on the fact the car only has 140 or so horsepower.

Another thing, does anybody know how to do an EGR delete on this engine?

I've done one on a '93 2.5 turbo but that involved using a different wastegate and tapping the intake manifold.

I assume that's the same way I would have to do this one?

The intake definitely has a good coat of oil on it.

Ok. I removed the lines and the solenoid and cleaned the solenoid.

Brake cleaner shot right through the solenoid unimpeded.

Should this solenoid be closed unless boost is too high?

That's the impression I got from the manual I just looked at.

I also removed and cleaned the overpressure switch.

It was about 85% sludged over.

I took it for a test drive and the engine seemed more responsive but that was just a fifteen minute drive.

Thanks for the help.

That thing is invaluable.

Loosen off the ALDA nut and let the ALDA sit there rattling around on top of its mount and go for a drive. As you are looking down on the ALDA you will be wrenching the big nut (27mm) clockwise, it is as if you are tightening it but that nut is actually coming up to meet the ALDA from the bottom, so that's the way to loosen it.

My car went from great to dog overnight when a capsule inside the ALDA fatigue cracked and lost its atmospheric seal. 20 second 60 mph runs. I thought it was turbo too.. Until popping off the ALDA solved it. It's permanently off the car now, never looked back... At the black smoke! :-)

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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Common misconception. The ALDA is a limiting device and not an enrichment device. It cannot add fuel. The only thing it can do is retard the rack in the IP from where your right foot is trying to put the rack. It is trying to limit fuel to what the car can burn cleanly based on air pressure in the manifold. A good ALDA with strong boost goes to zero limiting.

__________________
Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

How did that affect your mpg?

I drive this car 5000 miles a month for work so fuel efficiency is most important to me.

Having no ALDA does not affect MPG all by itself, that requires the cooperation of your right foot. Pushing hard on the right pedal with no ALDA in place affects MPG.

The way to look at it is this, having no ALDA allows you to decide to waste fuel. If you push harder than the engine can consume the fuel you'll see that excess as black smoke pouring out the back which is equal to pouring fuel down the drain and a waste of money, and MPG going down.

The ALDA might have prevented that waste, but only if it is perfectly functioning and over time they don't. Another way of preventing the waste is pressing lighter on the pedal, as you know the car can only produce so much power and never ask for more than that with your foot.

Here's the thing for me. I like power and fuel economy and drive for which I want when I want. I know my car and spool up speed of the turbo and I have a boost pressure gauge in the car. I have a manual wastegate controller ($20) dialed up a bit from stock. When the turbo is working and boost is up then I know that pressing to the floor will not produce black, the IP is incapable of over fueling when boost is on. There is more boost in the car than can be used. In these conditions, all that fuel is converted to power, not smoke, and with that power I go fast. I get the most from the car. You do not need a boost gauge and wastegate controller to get the most from your car, I just like to see the data and overly control things.

Repeating that same experiment by pressing hard off the line before turbo spools up (<2200 rpm for me) means black shoots out the back. I don't go any faster the car will have the same speed and time to 60 MPH for both runs. Only the second run wasted fuel and the first didn't.

The ALDA is a nanny that tries to be polite and not allow you to go into the black zone. And if the ALDA is old and imperfect it will overly restrict the rack and you will not only not get black, you will not see what the car is naturally capable of and otherwise perfectly happy of producing for you well within its engineering design limits. A bad ALDA is like having 2 cylinders lopped off the car, or to me, feels like I'm dragging an anchor, or as in the case of this thread: feels exactly like a broken turbo.

In summary, with the ALDA removed YOU can choose to drive like a granny and still get the best MPG your car is capable of. But when granny wants to rock, you can roll! To be fair, a perfectly fine and well adjusted ALDA would still allow you to party. But I ripped this bra off my girl! And you know what? 30 year old boobs don't look so bad!! The cheapest and quickest fix for an ALDA issue is to remove this non-critical limiter from the car, you won't look back and miss it... Ever.

__________________
Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

I would buy the MOST fuel efficient car on the market if it was me and I could afford it. 5000 miles/month is a lot of mileage and the saving on fuel efficiency is more than the monthly payment of a TDI or Prius. Say you can do 28mpg on your car and 48mpg on a TDI. You save approx 70 gallons of fuel per month or $$$. It may be enough for the monthly payment of a new/newer car.

With no disrespect, this is only me.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Or, worry about efficiency less and just convert the car you already have to run on veggy oil... Then it's practically free miles you're putting on and still no harm to global warming. Just sayin'

__________________
Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

BINGO.

A used 04+ Prius costs $4000-6000 depending on mileage. Drive that thing into the ground for the next few years and you still come out on top. Its cheaper to run and more reliable than any diesel.

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CENSORED due to not family friendly words

First of all, show me a TDI that gets 48 mpg in real world driving.

Second of all, I never mentioned I wanted a the most fuel efficient car. I just stated that I wanted the car I have to be the most fuel efficient.

Third, 5K miles equates to sitting in my car for about 90 hours a month. I don't want to be in a Jetta (I owned a '98 five speed) for that long. I want to be comfortable and relaxed while driving for that long. That's also why I would never buy a Prius. BTW, is Prius still LYING about their MPG? See, I don't go by promised mpg. I calculate my mpg at every fillup using a calculator.

I think I would be happiest with a five speed manual conversion for this car.

Not necessarily - but have it checked out if it's bothersome to you.

No, I've never heard any of the turbos on any of the MB and other makes of brands I've owned.

From all he's been writing - I agree. The Prius would seem to suit his particular concerns AND mpg needs.