I just did front and rear rotors and pads. All parts from Pelican. I have an '85 with Ate front calipers.

I used Ate Rotors and the following MB pads:

001-420-78-20-M22 1 Brake Pad Set - 15 mm Thickness (Front, For Use with ATE Brand Calipers Only) Brand: Genuine Mercedes

If your disks are getting close to minimum thickness you may be able to squeeze the thicker pads in. I would go for the thin pads just to be safe. Whats 2mm of pad material? hardly worth worrying about.

Thanks. That is very useful and i will buy those pads.

Interesting that if I enter that part number in EPC, it doesn't include our cars (123-133) in the list of cars that those pads fit!

Thanks too to t walgamuth for his input.

Layback40 - I am putting in new rotors even although old ones are hardly worn - but they have corrosion pits in surface. So looks like 15mm is what I need.

I will most likely try and order through Pelican if I can work out an economical method for shipment.

I'd not let a few rust spots keep me from using a nice thick rotor!;)

I broke a corroded rotor on my 240D once. I didn't crash into anything, but I did miss my turn.

Did it have all five bolts intact holding it to the hub?

Although thought passed my mind, cost of machining would be about $100 vs about $150-$190 for new rotors. The pitting is quite bad in places, so even after removing 1-2mm, they would probably still be there.

Afterall, its only money ;)

It did.

Edit: I thought I posted about the broken rotor when it happened. I tried to find the posts, but I couldn't. This happened some time in 2006.

Are your holes in your rotors bigger than this? These are the ones I drilled for my autocross car. they work fine and I cannot feel any vibrations with them. Unless the rust has weakened the connection between the hat and rotor some pitting in the rotor would not bother me in the least....in a week or two they will be clean.

I haven't taken pics of the rears yet (which I have off). They have a rust ring around outer and inner perimeter about 1/2" wide. Sort of like Saturn rings. The discs are pretty rough in those areas and have worn the pads away so only middle part of pads are making contact. I tried sanding the rust off on belt sander but they really would have to be machined.

The one front is OK, but the other one has this bad spot. You can see the raised rust that has worn the pad away causing another Saturn ring!

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...0corrosion.jpg

Well, that's all in one spot. I bet that vibrates. I see your point.;)

Ordered new Zimmerman discs for front and back.

Ordered the 0014207820 (15mm) pads for front ATE calipers and 0014200620 for the rear (also ATE). Pads are TRW. Not my first choice but wanted to get everything from same place (A local small euro parts store)

I am about C$300 poorer :(

Just finished installing the rear discs and pads. I don't know if OE or other pads are the same, but the TRWs I put in with new Zimmerman discs were a very tight fit. Hard to get the pistons backmfar enough. But they seem fine now they are in.

The TRW 0014207820 (15mm) pads for front do look same as the ones I took out. Hopefully they will go in easier than the rears!

Do MB rotors need something special to turn them? Turning a rotor is $15 here.

The consensus is generally to replace when worn rather than machine when they are already thin.

Lots of times I grind off the edges of my pads when they feel tight. Sometimes also, the piston might not be fully retracted so I make sure about that too.