It appears that there is another beneficial side effect to the new timing chain and that is an increase in fuel mileage. On the most recent tank, with a driving profile that would normally produce right at 30 mpg I got 32.7

Now one tank does not confirm this, but it is definitely a significant indicator.

It also appears that there is less smoke (soot) now too.

I'm happy.

I have this project coming up shortly. Perfectly explained. Thank you.

So, DieselGiant did not use the crimper correctly and posted a photo showing a "crimped link" when in fact it was not crimped? I wonder how many engines were ruined as a result?

Someone should contact him so that he can correct the tutorial.

I know I have done at least 2 this way, and they are still on the road. It takes a good amount of pressure to press the link on the end, so I am not too worried. However, I am going to do my best to correctly crimp the links in both cars before something bad happens....Rich

Here's the entire crimping sequence on his site.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1406388850

And digitally enhancing the first image clearly shows the crimping face of the die not being used.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1406388864

He might say that this image is pressing on the link in preparation for crimping, but there should definitely be an additional two images showing the crimper being used with the crimping face and the final product with the mushroomed pins. To his credit, he says it but does not show it... which is very misleading.

Second tank post chain replacement yielded 34.0 mpg

I think I can call the increase in mileage confirmed.

Should have done it a lot sooner I guess...

Glad I found this thread, I started this process yesterday and realized I messed up, so now I'll have to press the master link back out and get a new one, despite using the FSM for a W124;the instructions listed nothing like what is listed here. Here's my dilemma:

I couldn't get the master link to go through the middle link or outer link, so I took calipers and measured the ID of the link holes, then measured the OD of the rivets, then took a drill and barely reamed the link plates out to match the OD of the master link rivets, allowing it to press through with no resistance. I used the link press face portion with the magnet to try and swell the heads, but the link rivet heads are barely swelled, with the outer plate loose but barely on. Now, after reading this thread and a couple of others as to how tight the middle and outer links should be, I'm sure I botched this due to the looser tolerances I created, even though I could now crimp the outer plate and finish the job. I don't want to risk destroying my engine.

Recycled for new members
 

Education.

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The combination of that pressure... AND the fact that a double roller chain puts very little side pressure on those pins will allow many of these to work ' just fine'..

HOWEVER....this also makes it possible to crimp those ends just fine without the very nice tool...

Two 2 lb hammers....one as an anvil behind the pin....
and the other tapping a sharpened drive punch on the center of that pin......

Very little expansion is needed given the situation to hold it in place.
There is no rush.... and not much hitting needed.... just be sure the anvil is in place...and TAP... a couple or three firm hits should do the job just fine.