1982 200d IP Swap: M Style back to MW Style - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jab0028 · #1 05-27-2014, 03:56 PM

I recently acquired a 1982 200d euro off of craigslist, om615 011 38 01 It was difficult to start when I went to purchase it and I ended up trailering it home. I have replaced the fuel filters, purged the lines of air, put in new glowplugs, and am running it from a makeshift aux. tank to try and pin down the problem. Let me also add that I cracked open all four hard lines and got fuel from all of them. I tightened them back up and the car cranks, but it will not fire. I also filled the spin-on filter with fuel before putting it in service.

The ip is the m style pump but it looks as though the previous owner really mickey moused it and opened it up. I noticed a crack in the rear housing towards the vacuum shutoff valve and I have decided to swap over to a MW style pump to see if the pump is the culprit. The linkage is also makeshift so I will be borrowing the linkage off of my 240d to try and get this thing up and running.

My question is on the mw pump there is a brown opaque hose that runs from the left hand side of the pump to the timing cover, right under where the power steering pump mounts up. I believe it is the ip oil supply. When I swapped the new pump in there appeared to be a broken bolt in the spot where the 12mm banjo like bolt screws in. Upon closer examination and removal of the ps pump, this appears to be an oil gallery type ball bearing. How do I get the bearing to compress in and thread in the banjo bolt? I can see the threads but there are not enough exposed to get the bolt started. The M style pump did not have this line on it. Please see the attached pictures. Thanks.

Diesel911 · #2 05-27-2014, 10:09 PM

I did not know there was such a thing as a 200D MW Fuel Injection Pump. There is 240D MW Fuel Injections Pumps.

Since the original M Pump was not lubed by the Engine Oil there it is not setup for that; likely why it is plugged off and there is no threaded Hole to accept the tiny Banjo Bolt that the Oil needs.

You said you replaced the Glow Plugs but did not mention you verfied the Glow Plugs were working. If they are the origina Filiment/Loop type Glow Plugs if one Plug goes band they all do not work.

Diesel911 · #3 05-27-2014, 10:35 PM

Also I noticed this while looking in the Manual.
Some Fuel Injection Pumps have a Drive Hub/Gear that has an O-ring on it and others do not.

That seems to imply that the Fuel injection Pump with the O-ring needs to be matched to the Intermediate Shaft. But, I don't know for Sure.

The Fuel Injection Pump on Mine does not have the O-ring

cooljjay · #4 05-28-2014, 03:37 AM

I wouldn't switch in a mw pump for an m....m pumps are much more powerful....if you are getting fuel to the tops of the injectors....there is no way that the ip is the problem....you may have a weak starter, bad NSS, tight valves etc.....replacing and timing and injection pump is very difficult for first time DIY'ers.....

Stretch · #5 05-28-2014, 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jab0028

...
My question is on the mw pump there is a brown opaque hose that runs from the left hand side of the pump to the timing cover, right under where the power steering pump mounts up. I believe it is the ip oil supply. When I swapped the new pump in there appeared to be a broken bolt in the spot where the 12mm banjo like bolt screws in. Upon closer examination and removal of the ps pump, this appears to be an oil gallery type ball bearing. How do I get the bearing to compress in and thread in the banjo bolt? I can see the threads but there are not enough exposed to get the bolt started. The M style pump did not have this line on it. Please see the attached pictures. Thanks...

You are correct in assuming it is an oil feed line.

This is described in the FSM - chapter 07-200 (in the OM616 section of the W123 FSM)

If you look on page 14 of the PDF there is a dreadful picture showing where this line attaches to the block.

From this dreadful picture it looks like the connection is actually the large 17mm(?) nut that I thought was some sort of random thing Mercedes put there to stop the timing chain from touching the block casing in times of dire trouble!

I think the other smaller M8(?) sized holes in the block are for attaching the fuel filter assembly.

Anyway have a look for yourself in the FSM and see what you think. I don't think there is an oil way running through the block at this point (I think it all stops at the intermediate shaft) - it looks like this is some sort of crazy drip thing from the chain set up...

...I could be wrong - you need to have a butchers for yourself.

Stretch · #6 05-28-2014, 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay

I wouldn't switch in a mw pump for an m....m pumps are much more powerful...

I'm not aware of any Mercedes published evidence that shows the M pumps - be it M pumps with the pneumatic governor or M pumps with the RSF governor - make the engine more powerful. Have you got information that shows this?

I was under the impression that it was easier for those in the know to tune an M pump than it was to tune the MW - but I think that's all there is to it.

Despite your recent attempt at the world land speed record with that Honda I don't actually think it was due to your M/RSF IP not being a MW IP!

jab0028 · #7 05-28-2014, 08:26 AM

Thanks for all of your replies. I should add that I have adjusted the valves and they are now in spec. They were previously all tight. The only reason for changing the pump was because of the forementioned issue of not knowing what the previous owner may have done to the pump and the crack on the rear housing that I have since mended with jb weld. The MW pump did indeed come from a 240d.

As for the glow plugs they are the new pencil style. I took the relay off of my 1981 240d which is in full working order and placed it into the 200d. Still have the same issue. Maybe I will put everything back and borrow the glow plug wiring from my 240d and see how I fare doing that.

Cooljay, I will read up on bypassing the NSS and see if I have any luck there. Thanks to all of you. I will report back shortly.

cooljjay · #8 05-28-2014, 04:01 PM

If all your valves were tight, you will need to have another battery hooked up the your battery via thick jumper cables and make sure you have a good battery...

When I first got my 78, it had sat for about 3 years and the valves were so tight I could barely break them free. In order to start it, I had my buddy sit in my euro, hook up thick battery cables, have him reeve the engine while I cranked the other....eventually the car popped off....it shot carbon clear into my garage and filled the whole house with smoke.....after that....I never had an issue starting the car..

jab0028 · #9 05-28-2014, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay

If all your valves were tight, you will need to have another battery hooked up the your battery via thick jumper cables and make sure you have a good battery...

When I first got my 78, it had sat for about 3 years and the valves were so tight I could barely break them free. In order to start it, I had my buddy sit in my euro, hook up thick battery cables, have him reeve the engine while I cranked the other....eventually the car popped off....it shot carbon clear into my garage and filled the whole house with smoke.....after that....I never had an issue starting the car..

Thanks, I will give that a try. I have been borrowing the battery out of my '81 240d. I am still doing some reading up on the NSS also.