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  #46  
Old 06-12-2014, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Ahhh the secret to success. Don't leave your car out in the rain!
Yep.

I only used a URO because I was in a pinch and needed the windshield repaired and couldn't wait for a OEM seal. All of the glass is coming out sometime in the next year or two when the car gets painted so it's okay.

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  #47  
Old 06-12-2014, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Ahhh the secret to success. Don't leave your car out in the rain!
I live in FL, it rains like clockwork from May - September and then we have hurricane season. I wont have it in the garage until the room mates move out or we get a storage unit so I can organize the garage to fit two W123's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
uro rear windshield seals are just find....I am supporting two on my cars...4 if you count the fronts....I re used my 4 year old uro seal on my 78....no leaks and easy to get on...
It may have been 79Mercy's quest for an OEM gasket for his w115 that turned me off from a uro seal but I'll decide how much I want to spend. I've never pulled glass before and hopefully I can get two friends to help me.
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  #48  
Old 06-12-2014, 04:23 PM
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Another thing to consider, if your don't trust what I have experienced with uro seals. Mercedes no long makes the oem seals for these cars, the one you will pay top dollar for, has been on a shelf for 25+ years....as soon as they see the light and weather they will crack! Another thing, they will come coated in white powder, that powder is on there to protect the rubber from disintegrate in storage....this means the seal is still made from actually rubber and not neoprene....which we know, rubber now no longer holds up well to weather....
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  #49  
Old 06-12-2014, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
Another thing to consider, if your don't trust what I have experienced with uro seals. Mercedes no long makes the oem seals for these cars, the one you will pay top dollar for, has been on a shelf for 25+ years....as soon as they see the light and weather they will crack! Another thing, they will come coated in white powder, that powder is on there to protect the rubber from disintegrate in storage....this means the seal is still made from actually rubber and not neoprene....which we know, rubber now no longer holds up well to weather....
That's not 100% true - stock "at the dealer" can spend a long time on the shelf but that's usually low volume parts like chassis parts. Some of the larger dealer parts actually have a date of manufacture on them - I'm pretty sure my dealer obtained W123 windscreen seals have a date of manufacture on their tickets. They are still in the box - if I stumble upon them in the garage I'll check.

Whilst many spares were made when the cars were born there's a continual reordering of stuff that's popular. Things like windscreen rubbers will be pretty new they won't crack and fall out. So far on this forum I have never come across a thread saying that a new dealer windscreen rubber failed. Whereas there are many windscreen rubber specific URO tales of woe.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #50  
Old 06-12-2014, 07:57 PM
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I've read a few, but I can't find the threads now to prove my case to judge judy

People blame the uro seals for a lot, many it not holding the chrome....if the chrome is just slightly bent it will not be held into the seal. I had to use a small scrap of wood to tap my chrome down in places after I installed the windshield. Uro makes horrible parts granted but I have had no issues with door and windshield seals from them. I just bought the last uro seal just recently and I 99.9% expected it to fail during install because of all the gossip going on about the seals...went in perfectly...
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  #51  
Old 06-12-2014, 08:54 PM
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I don't believe that everything URO is substandard. No I would not buy ANY suspension part made by URO, but a windshield seal should be a no brainer for even the manufacturer of the crappiest parts on the planet. I bought a URO receiver/drier, and thought, how bad could it be? It is just a can filled with desiccant and a filter. As long as it does not leak, it should do the job as well as even a factory part. No I am not suggesting that anyone should buy nothing but a URO drier, but if that is what is available, then why not? My bro bought a new compressor from ******** for his W124, and they would only guarantee it if a drier and TXV were purchased. The drier was URO, but I installed it and it is doing it's job. All this to say that SOME URO parts should not be thrown in the same category as MOST of them. There may be others, but it seems that a windshield gasket and a receiver/drier are two exceptions to the rule....Rich
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  #52  
Old 06-12-2014, 09:03 PM
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wooo hooo I have back up

It is sad, that we have to say this stuff about uro, I have uro tie rods on my euro...for over 7 years and they are just like they were when new...I bought a pair for the 78 and with in 6 months...the boots were gone...

Back when I got my euro, I thought parts buy uro were really good quality for the price...now I am afraid to try anything from them..
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  #53  
Old 06-12-2014, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
I've read a few, but I can't find the threads now to prove my case to judge judy

People blame the uro seals for a lot, many it not holding the chrome....if the chrome is just slightly bent it will not be held into the seal. I had to use a small scrap of wood to tap my chrome down in places after I installed the windshield. Uro makes horrible parts granted but I have had no issues with door and windshield seals from them. I just bought the last uro seal just recently and I 99.9% expected it to fail during install because of all the gossip going on about the seals...went in perfectly...
AH HA!
I understand why your seals went in so easy... You are supposed to put the chrome in the seal BEFORE you put the window in the car... Putting the seal in without the chrome is disaster... VERY hard to put the chrome in after... Easy before.
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  #54  
Old 06-12-2014, 10:01 PM
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I've heard URO stuff for subarus is ok so maybe a trunk seal will be too.

I pulled the c pillar covers off without breaking them or the clips. Tomorrow I'll pull the parcel shelf and inspect the seal.

If anyone has a set of early w123 seatbelts for the rear in good condition please let's know. I need to replace mine.


Also replaced some fuel lines under the hood and the fuel filters.
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  #55  
Old 06-12-2014, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
AH HA!
I understand why your seals went in so easy... You are supposed to put the chrome in the seal BEFORE you put the window in the car... Putting the seal in without the chrome is disaster... VERY hard to put the chrome in after... Easy before.
no no I put the chrome in before I put the windshields in, it was just since my windshields were smashed and I had the chrome in trunk...it got a bit tweaked...so I wasn't able to reform it to fit completely in the seal...once in I used the force
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  #56  
Old 06-13-2014, 01:21 AM
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Yet another reason to cut the old rubber so the trim is not bent in any way when removing it.
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  #57  
Old 06-13-2014, 02:13 AM
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Evidence for when Judge Judy turns up!

Here's a picture of a URO seal fitted to a rear windscreen of a W123



I found it in this thread

Reviving my 1983 euro 300D....

Look around the edges of the seal - it might be a trick of the light but I'd be concerned if I was cooljjay living where I live with little gaps like that. It looks like it is sticking up slightly particularly in the lower corner.

Living with water is a very different existence where I am compared with living in the desert (as mentioned earlier in the thread).

May be a URO seal and lots of black window glue would work in the wet - I've just been using that stuff on my W201 glueing down trim at the bottom of the windscreen (W201 bonded screen) and it gets everywhere. Fingers are black - hair is black - teeth are black...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #58  
Old 06-13-2014, 03:29 AM
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I believe that is just shadowing...I will have to look when I go out, I know it is sung and tight all the way around....one thing I made sure of....oh and trust me, from now till October, we get some serious rain! It will pour so bad, that you can't even see....plus we do get snow in the winter...

I also have zero sealant on my seals...
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  #59  
Old 06-13-2014, 04:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
I believe that is just shadowing...I will have to look when I go out, I know it is sung and tight all the way around....one thing I made sure of....oh and trust me, from now till October, we get some serious rain! It will pour so bad, that you can't even see....plus we do get snow in the winter...

I also have zero sealant on my seals...
Really? Bloody hell that wasn't clearly defined on the label! Not fair! What's the point in living in a desert if you get snow (must be all that global warming)...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #60  
Old 06-13-2014, 06:10 PM
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Changed the oil and filter, fuel,filters, and some fuel,lines just now. I bought a new battery and put 3 gallons of fresh fuel in the tank and tried to prime it. The primer is shot. It leaked a ton of fuel and I don't think it primed but I cranked with the injector hard lines cracked and they were getting fuel.

Well still no start. What should I do next? Pull and rebuild the injectors?

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