Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-03-2014, 02:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 80
Replacing radiator... anything else?

Hey everyone,

I'm going to replace the radiator in my 81 300SD. Is there anything that you would recommend replacing while I'm in there?

I will be replacing:

Thermostat, upper and lower coolant hose (Uro Parts... ), Thermostat housing gasket, both cooler hoses, and of course the blue stuff .

I just wanted to see if anyone had found it easier to replace something while replacing the radiator. I just figured if there was, I might as well replace it now. Also, it looks like the previous owner was using conventional green antifreeze. Should I do a "citrus flush?"

Thanks!

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-03-2014, 02:10 PM
uberwasser's Avatar
1979 & 1985 300D's
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,097
How old is your water pump? It is only about $50 for a Graf brand pump. I think they are worth replacing every few hundred thousand miles as preventative maintenance.

You could also pull off and inspect your vacuum pump bearing, and check for play in the timing device behind it.

And I suppose if you have a front crank seal leak it would be easier to address with the radiator out.

None of the above are impossible by any means with the radiator in place, but since you asked, having it out would give you more working room.
__________________
1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-03-2014, 02:40 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,457
If you are not experiencing over heating trouble (you don't say why you are replacing the radiator) I wouldn't do a citrus flush - some people seem to get a bit carried away with citrus flushes (they can cause more trouble than they fix)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-03-2014, 03:01 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,740
Agreed.....no flush! and no mention as to why you are replacing all this stuff? If your not experiencing any cooling issues, I would just flush everything out with the water house and refill with zerex G05..
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-03-2014, 03:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 80
I am not having any cooling problems. The absolute only reason why I am replacing the radiator is because of the radiator neck failure. Pretty unfortunate, but it seems it happens to the best of us...
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-03-2014, 03:29 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,337
Be sure to comletely clean the ac condenser!
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-03-2014, 04:03 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 80
Thanks for all the help! Any proven and effective methods on cleaning the condenser?
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-03-2014, 06:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Beachwood, NJ
Posts: 462
Consider using AC coil cleaner. Worked good on my home's evaporator.
__________________

Present
1987 300SDL
1991 300SL
1990 560SEL
2001 ML320

Past
1969 200D 1979-82
1983 300SD 1984-85
1972 250C 1982-02
1995 S350 2011
1997 S320 2012
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-03-2014, 08:00 PM
Skid Row Joe's Avatar
PRESIDENT DONALD J. TRUMP
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: DONALD J. TRUMP'S AMERICA THE BEAUTIFUL!
Posts: 6,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by 300SD90 View Post
Hey everyone,

I'm going to replace the radiator in my 81 300SD. Is there anything that you would recommend replacing while I'm in there?

I will be replacing:

Thermostat, upper and lower coolant hose (Uro Parts... ), Thermostat housing gasket, both cooler hoses, and of course the blue stuff .

I just wanted to see if anyone had found it easier to replace something while replacing the radiator. I just figured if there was, I might as well replace it now. Also, it looks like the previous owner was using conventional green antifreeze. Should I do a "citrus flush?"

Thanks!
While you're that close to the water pump, I'd replace it too, unless you know that it has been replaced in the last 50K miles or so.
__________________
Breitbart - One Voice Silenced, Millions Awakened

06 E320 CDI - PEWTER/CHARCOAL
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-03-2014, 08:04 PM
Skid Row Joe's Avatar
PRESIDENT DONALD J. TRUMP
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: DONALD J. TRUMP'S AMERICA THE BEAUTIFUL!
Posts: 6,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberwasser View Post
How old is your water pump? It is only about $50 for a Graf brand pump. I think they are worth replacing every few hundred thousand miles as preventative maintenance.

You could also pull off and inspect your vacuum pump bearing, and check for play in the timing device behind it.

And I suppose if you have a front crank seal leak it would be easier to address with the radiator out.

None of the above are impossible by any means with the radiator in place, but since you asked, having it out would give you more working room.
Unless there's a reason not to buy a genuine OEM water pump from an MB dealer, why would you buy that one for 2.5 X more money??

I'd go with an OEM WP from the MB dealer.

Also, where do water pumps last a; "few hundred thousand miles," without showing signs of wear, in the first place?
__________________
Breitbart - One Voice Silenced, Millions Awakened

06 E320 CDI - PEWTER/CHARCOAL
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 06-03-2014, 08:31 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Los Angeles area
Posts: 590
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberwasser View Post
How old is your water pump? It is only about $50 for a Graf brand pump. I think they are worth replacing every few hundred thousand miles as preventative maintenance.

You could also pull off and inspect your vacuum pump bearing, and check for play in the timing device behind it.

And I suppose if you have a front crank seal leak it would be easier to address with the radiator out.

None of the above are impossible by any means with the radiator in place, but since you asked, having it out would give you more working room.
Can you please explain how to inspect the vacuum pump bearing and pay in the timing device behind it?
__________________
1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-03-2014, 08:38 PM
uberwasser's Avatar
1979 & 1985 300D's
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,097
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
Unless there's a reason not to buy a genuine OEM water pump from an MB dealer, why would you buy that one for 2.5 X more money??
Sorry, confused. The Graf pump is 2.5x the price of an OEM pump???? Did you add a zero on that wasn't there? An OEM re-manufactured pump is $130-160 depending on where you look, or about 3 X the price of the Graf pump which is available for $43.50 right on this site... and which is brand new. I think you got it backwards.

Graf is a very reputable manufacturer that makes pumps that are often better than OEM. I'm familiar with them from the BMW side of things. It's not like I was suggesting a URO or Meyle pump.

As to your second question, I was not being specific in my mileage, obviously.

Either way, I'm not saying your pump WILL necessarily last you that long, but if it HAS lasted that long (as far as you know, i.e. you have no record of it being done) then it's good preventative maintenance to replace it for the whopping sum of $43.50 for a quality Graf pump.

Anecdotal evidence, however, shows that they can and do last a long time. My 1985 300D didn't have its water pump replaced until 150,000 miles. And my 1979 still had its original pump at 150,000 indicated miles but likely higher (slow odometer when purchased). I replaced it as preventative maintenance, which is all I was suggesting. It was not bad to the point of needing to be replaced, but while the system is drained and the radiator is out it's not much more work. Which is exactly what he was asking about.
__________________
1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-03-2014, 08:39 PM
Hit Man X's Avatar
I LOVE BRUNETTES
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: FUNKYTOWN
Posts: 9,085
Thumbs up

How are the hose clamps? Heater system hoses related to aux water pump/monovalve, etc.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-03-2014, 08:58 PM
uberwasser's Avatar
1979 & 1985 300D's
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,097
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4diesel View Post
Can you please explain how to inspect the vacuum pump bearing and pay in the timing device behind it?
You'd inspect the bearing and roller surface for obvious signs of wear visually, and for freedom of movement. You'd also check that the bearing cage is intact, and that the ball bearings are properly held in/spaced out by the cage.

You'd also inspect the surface of the cam plate for excess wear.

And finally, you'd pull/push in and out, left and right on the nut on the end of the timing device (visible when the pump is removed, right in the center of the cam plate). Anything but the slightest play can indicate the brass bushing that the shaft rides in is worn excessively.

It might not be practical to address problems found during this inspection, but at least the issue would then be known and could be addressed when the car can be put up for work again.
__________________
1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-03-2014, 09:41 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Los Angeles area
Posts: 590
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberwasser View Post
You'd inspect the bearing and roller surface for obvious signs of wear visually, and for freedom of movement. You'd also check that the bearing cage is intact, and that the ball bearings are properly held in/spaced out by the cage.

You'd also inspect the surface of the cam plate for excess wear.

And finally, you'd pull/push in and out, left and right on the nut on the end of the timing device (visible when the pump is removed, right in the center of the cam plate). Anything but the slightest play can indicate the brass bushing that the shaft rides in is worn excessively.

It might not be practical to address problems found during this inspection, but at least the issue would then be known and could be addressed when the car can be put up for work again.

Got it. Thank you much. Sounds like something I should have done before reinstalling the engine last Sunday. I'd had it on a stand for about 4 months, and had the vacuum pump off...I did fiddle with things, just rub my fingers around them and move them, seemed pretty tight, but didn't know about the timing gear thing, and hope I didn't miss an opportunity there I'll regret.

To the OP about your thread, my limited knowledge is I'd pretty much replace anything that deals with water that might need it. Hoses, clamps, whatever you can think of where the coolant flows...once you drain it, you might as well not do that again for a while.

__________________
1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:52 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page