Yup. Bending in place is a little cramped at times, but typically yields the best results. Tape over the open end of the tube to keep dirt out.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Contact a MB dealer parts desk. I bought a replacement brake line for the rear passenger side on my old '85 300TD ... pre-bent and it was about $20.

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

I would definitely do that if they had a pre-bent tube and that it was possible to install it without removing the engine

The part in question, is right front brake tube part 1234207028. EPC says this part fits on 25 different models from old 123s to current model GLKs. I doubt they all use exactly same shape! As Stretch said earlier, the dealer likely sells straight lengths that can be adapted to various models.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I was giving my info for the OP. He said his was leaking right over the rear driver wheel.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

Sorry, I hadn't realized that. The OP had been given an answer early on and the thread moved on to other things (partly my fault )

Regarding those rear lines. You were probably lucky to find the pre-bent ones. EPC shows that the numbers have been changed. The original parts (e.g 1234200328) were used on 123's exclusively. The new parts (e.g 1234205628) are used on multiple cars of all shapes and sizes. Presumably to reduced required part inventories, they have gone to stocking just straight lengths. (parts numbers are for rear left on 123133.)

For the particular line I might need, that is a problem because it is complex and runs behind the engine. I have a possible solution, but will start separate thread on that

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I was finally able to remove the whole line from the brake master cylinder to the back of the junction. Going to try and see if they have premade lines at autozone later today. I noticed at the rear, it is very tight connection to the junction. How do you guys easily get it in?

I ended up ordering the line from the dealer as the lines from Autozone was a bit confusing. It was $40 at the dealer, not too bad! Now, I'm in the process of fitting it in but notice the clearance to the rear junction seems tight. Are there any ticks to putting it on? Thanks for all your help

Wow you're doing the line from the master cylinder to the back with out removing the sub frame? Errrm good luck with that - I've read that people have managed to do it - I wouldn't want to try it myself.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I am just having a beer after spending my afternoon looking up at the tee distributor. Is that what you mean by rear junction?

On my 85, that tee was quite easy to access. I installed new lines from tee to both rear wheels. Clamp behind diff was a bit tight to get at, but not that bad. The line from MC looked new. Don't recall, but shop must have done it when my fuel line was leaking.

I had to use butane torch on the tee to get the old lines off. I squeezed the old lines closed and then cut them off so I could get ring spanner on. Took several heat application to get joints to release.

I hope I am done. Rebuilt front calipers, new discs and pads all round, new flex hoses all round, new hard lines at rear. Bled brakes, pedal seems hard. Need to test drive once I do some wheel well paint touch up.

ADDED: Test drove and bedded pads gently as per TRW instructions. Everything seems to be OK. Even got the wheel well touch up done. Touched up wheels too. She is back on road as my around town daily driver.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

In the rustbelt it usually will mean replacing the brake line to the rear during a fuel line change. You start moving the old corroded line around and it usually leaks. When you replace the fuel lines properly you do have to really disturb it.

The only good thing about changing that line is I have gravity bled it and seemed to get no air in the system. Just waited until brake fluid flowed out and tightened the rear fitting.

At least now you have gotten familiar with dealing with the fittings in the system in the rustbelt. Heat is really about the only friend I have with them.

If you intend to keep the car for years think about greasing the bleeder screws. Then sliding a short piece of brake hose over them that fits snug . Then add a dab of grease on the top.

Even five years from now the bleeder will release like you just tightened it yesterday. Otherwise without heavy heat you may break them off or strip the nut portion.

As far as I know nobody does a lot of little things I do with cars as they were my ideals as far as I know. I guess most people do not do the simple equations. Anything that is both simple and cheap to do and is of some benefit even for some other owner down the road. Why not do it? You may even still be the owner when the need is present again.